alternator problems.....again

[440charger68]

so i got a new 65 amp alternator for my 68 charger 318 and it was doing great till i blew a fuse  , i replaced the fuse and now it wont charge my battery, theres a black wire that partialy snapped of my ignition and im thinkin thats it. does that wire have anything to do with my charging system?? and if not where are some places that often short when the battery is not charging?? 

[ZSmithersCharges]

so i got a new 65 amp alternator for my 68 charger 318 and it was doing great till i blew a fuse  , i replaced the fuse and now it wont charge my battery, theres a black wire that partialy snapped of my ignition and im thinkin thats it. does that wire have anything to do with my charging system?? and if not where are some places that often short when the battery is not charging?? 

Have any pictures of said wire?  I am trying to sort out a few wires myself.

[Nacho-RT74]

black wire at ignition should it be the source to acc at fuse box, nothing to do with charging system

65 amps ? take care... read here, specially the first link I posted there
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,62772.0.html

otherwise, check bulkhead, and back of cluster at ammeter studs.

[440charger68]

sorry no pics my computer stopped uploading photos from my camera for some reason and my ammeter doesnt worked so i linked the two wires together

so i got a new 65 amp alternator for my 68 charger 318 and it was doing great till i blew a fuse  , i replaced the fuse and now it wont charge my battery, theres a black wire that partialy snapped of my ignition and im thinkin thats it. does that wire have anything to do with my charging system?? and if not where are some places that often short when the battery is not charging?? 

Have any pictures of said wire?  I am trying to sort out a few wires myself.

[Charger RT]

The first thing I would do is start the car and with a volt meter check the voltage at the battery. Then measure the voltage at the battery stud on the back of the alternator. They should be very close to one another. If the voltages are close the control circuit of the charging system needs to be looked at.

If the voltage at the battery stud of the alternator is much higher then the reading at the battery it is a good sign of issues at the bulk head connector.

Since you already have bypassed the amp meter. I would visually inspect and repair those 2 bulkhead connector wires if needed. Then add and extra wire running from the alternator battery stud back to the battery. This wire will prevent the bulk head connectors from melting in the future. (I used black 8 guage wire and run it under my harness to hide it to keep my car looking stock I also used black wire ties to hold it to the harness) How did you bypass the amp meter? Did you hook both wires onto one of the studs? If so I would remove them from there and connect them in a differant fashion depending on there condition.

The alternator control circuit. The regulator is on the fire wall. Looking at it it is pretty clear which one of the wires goes to the alternator and which one comes from the harness. With the engine running the wire from the harness should have battery voltage on it. If battery voltage is present the other wire should have a voltage on it feeding the field of the alternator. This reading will vary since the regulator controls what it feeds the alternator field.

Take some voltage readings of the things posted above and if you need more help post the readings you got and we can go from there.
Tim 

[440charger68]

i bypassed the ampmeter by taking the two wires and extended them to the positive of my aftermarket voltmeter and the grounded it to my dash. it powers everything real nicely , and i will do all the reading tomorrow since its like 9pm 

[440charger68]

 :scratchchin:okay so i have power at the back of the alternator at the positive stud and i followed my field wire to my voltage regulator. on one side of the regulator i have the wires that contain power coming from my wiring harness and on the other side of the regulator its a green wire that goes to the field of my alternator. there is no power coming from the side of the regulator going to the field so this can only mean my voltage regulator has gone bad right??? there is power going to my regulator but its not sending anything out to my field

[Nacho-RT74]

voltager regulator green side sends negative ( regulated )... blue is simply an input positive signal to regulator, spliced before ballast and feeds all engine components from ign switch. As far less positive voltage sensed by regulator, more negative is sent by regulator to increase magnetic field inside alt, so then more output from alt.

ign key needs to be ON to be able to get negative from reg

[440charger68]

i did all the testing with the car running

[Nacho-RT74]

Regulator needs to be good grounded since takes the input negative signal from chassis...

if everything on this fails, time to new regulator then

[440charger68]

yea i did that when i reinstalled everything when i painted my engine compartment a few weeks ago, so im thinkin new regulator now haha thanks for all the info though wouldnt of been able to figure it out without u guys

[Charger RT]

ok Nacho is describing a 70 and newer car. correct Nacho?

If the car is still running a mechanical style regulator (one field wire alternator) there should be postive voltage from the regulator to alternator. The negative voltage thing didn't happen until 1970 with the 2 field wire regulator and the electronic regulator.

But yes no voltage to the field wire no charge. Disconnecting the 2 wires off the regulator and putting them together should make it charge. If you do that you will be full fielding the alternator and the voltage can and will go to high. So if you want to do that before buying a regulator go ahead just watch the voltage. I wouldn't leave it hooked togehter for more then 5 seconds or so.

My 68 I found the aftermarket now makes an electronic version of our regulators. I have had one on my car for a few years now and it works great.
Tim

[Nacho-RT74]

damn!!! is true LOL

yes, I'm describing electrical, sorry.

Mechanical regulator needs to be good grounded anyway the same to make work the regulator properly.

Totally agree with Tim, joining together both wires to regulator to bypass the regulator, will work to check if regulator is working or not work and discard rest of the system fails, but alternator will get FULL FIELD and is dangerous for the charging system... couple of seconds to register charge and done!

Tim got luck with the upgraded electronic regulators with mechanical regulator looks and operation, BUT some ppl around hasn't been with that same luck

[elacruze]

My first question would be, 'why did the fuse blow?'

Shorted regulator? Shorted alternator? Shorted wire? Don't want to leave a fault in place and smoke new components.

[Nacho-RT74]

good question... I think we jumped over that problem...

still need to know WHAT FUSE blew ? fuse link ? if fuse link was the one blew, I have an idea.

[440charger68]

well the fuse that blew on my car was the tail lights  nothing to do with the voltage regulator. got a new reg yesterday and it doin great it was the original one i beleive and it was not use to the new 65 amp alternator and when i reved up it my voltage needle when up then dropped when the regulator went out