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Timing Chain Replacement

Started by bordin34, May 08, 2008, 02:37:57 PM

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bordin34

I believe that the reason my charger has been running like crap and backfiring is because the timing chain may have jumped a couple of teeth. I think that it may still have on the old nylon geared one because the previous owner said the engine had been rebuilt, but nothing looks newish. He didn't paint the engine, i think he thought rebuild meant "new" 452 heads and an intake. Is there a step by step way to remove and install the timing chain cover. I was told I need a harmonic balancer puller. The engine is a 73 400. I also want to put in a better cam, the previous owner said he put a mild one in it by I don't believe him. Any recommendations. 73 400 originally a 2bbl probably original pistons, 383 4bbl intake, 670cfm carb, headers.

1973 SE Brougham Black 4̶0̶0̶  440 Auto.
1967 Coronet Black 440 Auto
1974 SE Brougham Blue 318 Auto- Sold to a guy in Croatia
1974 Valiant Green 318 Auto - Sold to a guy in Louisiana
Mahwah,NJ

RD

well, since i have done two cam swaps in two weeks, here you go while it is still fresh in the mind:

First of all, you will need -

- oil change (go with royal purple, or racing oil, 5-6 quarts)
- timing cover gasket set
- camshaft lube (should come with cam kit)
- coolant (2 gallons)
- silicone
- permatex gasket maker
- a double roller timing chain set (summit sells them on their brand $50.00 i think)

Now what you will need to do... in order:

1. run your car to operating temperature, shut off and remove all the oil (like you are changing it) to include the filter [hint: when putting on the new filter, put oil inside it, will hold about a quart, so that your engine has oil to scavenge from on the start up]

2. bring your engine to TDC on the compression stroke on the #1 cylinder (AND LEAVE IT THERE)

3. remove coolant from radiator

4. remove fan shroud and fan, belts, and w/p pulley

5. remove radiator

6. disconnect battery

7. remove alternator and power steering pump (take a picture at this moment so you do not forget how things go back together!!!)

8. remove water pump housing

9. remove harmonic balancer using removing tool (you can rent these from autoparts stores)

10. remove timing chain cover (dont forget the two bolts on the oil pan that screw into the bottom of the timing chain cover)

11. clean all mating services (this point, your front oil pan gasket will need to be cut away and replaced, the timing cover gasket set will have a cork replacement, you will need to cut it so that it fits fine)

12.  replace the front main seal in your timing cover

13. remove your timing chain (5/8" bolt), but before you do make sure the two "dots" line up with one another

14. put on new chain, making doubly sure the two dots line up PERFECT (bring in cam bolt to hold the larger sprocket in place... gently tighten cam bolt so that larger sprocket will slide onto the camshaft easily), then tighten to 45 lbs

15. put in lower oil pan gasket (the one you cut to fit), and the timing cover gasket by applying silicone to both sides [make sure you have put some grease on the front main seal to ensure no splitting of the seal upon startup], apply silicone generously wherever there are two separate gaskets meeting one another and then reinstall timing cover

16. install w/p housing with gaskets and silicone

17. then everything else in reverse order

NOW...

if you are wanting to put in a camshaft:

to remove a cam you can do it two ways, keep the intake on or remove the intake... i recommend removing the intake since it will be your first one.

to remove your old cam (assuming we are at the stage where you just removed your timing chain)...

1. remove your distributor

2. remove your distributor gear (using a big flat tip screwdriver, insert tip into slot and turn counter clockwise)

3. remove valve covers, rocker arm assemblies, and pushrods (good time to visually inspect your pushrods, or just buy new ones)

4. remove your intake (take a pic to see how your linkage is set up to include kickdown) and valley pan tray (six bolts, 3 in front and rear on the hold downs)  [now is the best time to clean all mating surfaces between the intake, heads and block]

5. remove all lifters

6. remove your fuel pump, the fuel pump rod will hold your cam in its place

7. remove your cam shaft by put in a 8-10" bolt can be 1/2" or 9/16" bolt and SLOWLY GUIDE OUT YOUR CAMSHAFT MAKE DAMN SURE YOU DO NOT SCUFF UP YOUR CAM BEARINGS WITH THE LOBES OF THE OLD CAM!!! ;D  nice, slow, and sure is the name of the game

8. lube the crapola out of your cam on every single lobe and journal (to include your cam gear that meshes with the distributor gear)

9. SLOWLY PUT IT BACK IN USING THE SAME TECHNIQUE

10. get a clean container (i use a oil bottle cut in half) that has oil in it. put your lifters in one at a time and with the usage of a pushrod, pump them up with oil

11. install each lifter in each lifter bore, after each one is in, apply cam lube to where the pushrod will meet the lifter

12. reinstall pushrods and rocker arm assemblies making sure that the pushrods WILL NOT touch the heads at all (if they touch the heads, the rocker arms are not in the correct order, yes there is an order) torque down to specs (cant remember right now)
-------------------------------------
go to timing chain installation at this time
-------------------------------------
13. apply silicone at the corners where the heads and the block meet, and along the block where the valley pan hold downs are bolted in

14. use permatex gasket maker around each intake runner port (more or less wherever the valley pan will touch the heads)

15. put on valley pan tray, hold downs, and bolt down front and rear

16. apply permatex gasket make around valley pan tray that will touch wherever the intake manifold and it meet

17. bolt down the intake manifold (dont forget the last two bolts on the drivers side can only go on after you have the throttle linkage in place, those bolts hold it down)

18. replace distributor gear, applying cam lube directly onto gear (there is a slot in the distributor gear that you used to remove it, that slot needs to be parallel with the position of the camshaft in order for the distributor rotor to line up properly)

AND THE REST IS SIMPLE BUTTONING IT UP...

HOPE THIS MINI-THESIS HELPS YOU.
67 Plymouth Barracuda, 69 Plymouth Barracuda, 73 Charger SE, 75 D100, 80 Sno-Commander

bordin34

Thanks, that really helps me. My only question is how do I know how to line up the dots. Should I just buy the book? Any recommendations on cams.

1973 SE Brougham Black 4̶0̶0̶  440 Auto.
1967 Coronet Black 440 Auto
1974 SE Brougham Blue 318 Auto- Sold to a guy in Croatia
1974 Valiant Green 318 Auto - Sold to a guy in Louisiana
Mahwah,NJ

RD

Quote from: bordin34 on May 08, 2008, 07:57:39 PM
Thanks, that really helps me. My only question is how do I know how to line up the dots. Should I just buy the book? Any recommendations on cams.

the cam sprocket dot will need to be at the 6 o'clock position, and the crank sprocket at the 12 o'clock position, one directly above the other.

buy a 274 or 284 purple cam or a K56 and call it good.  no need to change springs with those cams.
67 Plymouth Barracuda, 69 Plymouth Barracuda, 73 Charger SE, 75 D100, 80 Sno-Commander

RD

oh and lastly, dont forget to time your engine :D hehehe
67 Plymouth Barracuda, 69 Plymouth Barracuda, 73 Charger SE, 75 D100, 80 Sno-Commander

bordin34

Thanks, I have a pretty good idea now, but I like pictures any recommendations for a book. Also which summit cam would be good, I am on a real small budget.

1973 SE Brougham Black 4̶0̶0̶  440 Auto.
1967 Coronet Black 440 Auto
1974 SE Brougham Blue 318 Auto- Sold to a guy in Croatia
1974 Valiant Green 318 Auto - Sold to a guy in Louisiana
Mahwah,NJ

RD

the small summit will be more than enough... the other will give you power brake issues due to too much duration.  get a chassis service manual.. they have them on DVD on ebay for only 29.99  that is a great buy.
67 Plymouth Barracuda, 69 Plymouth Barracuda, 73 Charger SE, 75 D100, 80 Sno-Commander

RD

67 Plymouth Barracuda, 69 Plymouth Barracuda, 73 Charger SE, 75 D100, 80 Sno-Commander

bordin34


1973 SE Brougham Black 4̶0̶0̶  440 Auto.
1967 Coronet Black 440 Auto
1974 SE Brougham Blue 318 Auto- Sold to a guy in Croatia
1974 Valiant Green 318 Auto - Sold to a guy in Louisiana
Mahwah,NJ

rt green

yes. that is a very good book. easy to read and understand. has a lot of specs and ID stuff too. lots of pics
third string oil changer

bordin34

WOW I guess I don't need to replace my timing chain. I started the car to get ready to tear it down and now it's running fine, just smokey from seafoam.

1973 SE Brougham Black 4̶0̶0̶  440 Auto.
1967 Coronet Black 440 Auto
1974 SE Brougham Blue 318 Auto- Sold to a guy in Croatia
1974 Valiant Green 318 Auto - Sold to a guy in Louisiana
Mahwah,NJ

RD

you owe me $5 for typing all of that LOL j/k
67 Plymouth Barracuda, 69 Plymouth Barracuda, 73 Charger SE, 75 D100, 80 Sno-Commander

mopar400

Hello
I guess I,m a little late on this topic
but isnt the timing marks supposed to line up as the nr 6 piston
is at TDC in the comp stroke?
Thats whats my Haynes Book says anyway
but I havent had the 1st hand experience yet...
//Linus

Al

By the way ... thanks to you RD for detailing the procedure. Quite clear.  :2thumbs:
1968 Dodge Charger, 383, UU1

oldkimmer

Quote from: mopar400 on May 12, 2009, 12:33:23 PM
Hello
I guess I,m a little late on this topic
but isnt the timing marks supposed to line up as the nr 6 piston
is at TDC in the comp stroke?
Thats whats my Haynes Book says anyway
but I havent had the 1st hand experience yet...
//Linus
................................................................U betcha.....................kim..........
Back in the good old days 1968 charger rt 440 magnum . 1968  charger 383 magnum. The Beast has been Unleashed!!!!!!!!!!!!!!