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One problem begats another.....

Started by Kevin68N71, June 13, 2009, 07:59:26 PM

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Kevin68N71

I posted before that I recently replaced my radiator (for a 360 Air Conditioned car, let me know if anyone wants to buy it!) that had been put on my car before I got it, and over time it just didn't keep the car, obviously, cool enough.  Anyways, I noticed since that whole installation process the Super Bee just didn't have the power it used to have.  Sure it got up and went, but seemed off.  The engine is smooth, it doesn't hesitate, etc.

Since, obviously, replacing the radiator would not have an effect on performance, I started looking for little things that I might have bumped or disconnected while doing the work.  Vacuum hoses, plug wires against manifolds, routing of fuel line, everything.  Nothing seemed to fix it. 

So today, I just said heck with it, let's check the plugs.  Turned out, I hadn't changed these plugs in YEARS.  I think I was remembering when I changed out the Charger's to get it going again.  Two of the plugs that were exceptionally hard to get at, were not even changed BEFORE, as they were a different brand.  I must have stopped there and said "I'll get them out another day", only that "another day" was like 4 years later.

Anyway, 1/2 the plugs were ruined.  Deformed electrodes, broke insulators, black chunks, yech.  Looks like the frequent overheating sessions got to some plugs too, and some didn't seem like they were tight enough.

Put in brand new Champions, and BOOM! the car is back to being fast.  It will chirp from first to second with the accelerator 2/3 down, instead of just doing it with WOT.  It's obviously faster and has that "head pull-back" torque once again.

Unfortunately, something I noticed is now definate.  I AM burning oil.  I just had to put two more quarts in and noticed that on the freeway at high speed there is smoke down in back of me on the freeway.  Can't imagine why it is smoking, the car runs super strong and the motor feels very even in its running.  I had heard a bad intake gasket can cause this; hope I don't have to rebuild.

Ideas?

KP
Do I have the last, operational Popcar Spacemobile?

69bronzeT5

Any chance it's dropping oil from somewhere? My Duster did the same thing going down the highway, then we realized the valve cover gasket on the right side is bad. It was only dropping oil at higher speeds and it was dropping right onto the headers and burning off.
Feature Editor for Mopar Connection Magazine
http://moparconnectionmagazine.com/



1969 Charger: T5 Copper 383 Automatic
1970 Challenger R/T: FC7 Plum Crazy 440 Automatic
1970 GTO: Black 400 Ram Air III 4-Speed
1971 Charger Super Bee: GY3 Citron Yella 440 4-Speed
1972 Charger: FE5 Red 360 Automatic
1973 Charger Rallye: FY1 Top Banana 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Road Runner: FE5 Red 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Duster: FC7 Plum Crazy 318 Automatic

Kevin68N71

I was hoping it was something like that.  The valve cover bolts WERE loose (seems everything loosens up on my Bee) but it was still doing the oil thing after that.  Maybe residual somewhere.  I have a hard time thinking its rings as the engine is so strong, and revving the engine does not give me any smoke.  Wondering if it might be the valve guides, at least having the heads done would not be as bad as having to do the rings and pull the whole engine. 

It's weird, around town or revving, no smoke, but definate smoke and oil loss on the highway.  I read somewhere a bad intake manifold gasket can do this--but doesn't seem like it would fit the symptoms.

I will keep looking for the leaks.  Your idea is what I am hoping for, and seeing as the bolts were definately NOT snugged down, might just be!  I did notice that one of the sides of the plugs was oily, not the tip but the side, as if something was dripping down it.  It must be a pretty good leak as I have gone through a few quarts of oil already and there is not a drip when I park.
Do I have the last, operational Popcar Spacemobile?

1969chargerrtse

Quote from: Kevin68N71 on June 14, 2009, 01:35:07 AM
I was hoping it was something like that.  The valve cover bolts WERE loose (seems everything loosens up on my Bee) but it was still doing the oil thing after that.  Maybe residual somewhere.  I have a hard time thinking its rings as the engine is so strong, and revving the engine does not give me any smoke.  Wondering if it might be the valve guides, at least having the heads done would not be as bad as having to do the rings and pull the whole engine. 

It's weird, around town or revving, no smoke, but definate smoke and oil loss on the highway.  I read somewhere a bad intake manifold gasket can do this--but doesn't seem like it would fit the symptoms.

I will keep looking for the leaks.  Your idea is what I am hoping for, and seeing as the bolts were definately NOT snugged down, might just be!  I did notice that one of the sides of the plugs was oily, not the tip but the side, as if something was dripping down it.  It must be a pretty good leak as I have gone through a few quarts of oil already and there is not a drip when I park.
One thing you can do is have someone follow you.  Then they can tell you if it's out the pipes or under the car.
This car was sold many years ago to somebody in Wisconsin. I now am retired and living in Florida.

mopar_nut_440_6

One quick trick I was taught a long time ago if trying to find out if it is valve guides/valves is run down the highway full throttle for a short time say 10 seconds, let off the gas completely for a few seconds and then floor it again. If you get a big cloud of blue smoke once you do this the valves/guides are the issue. It does work though as when I found out about this my valve guides were shot on a 72 Lemans!

I am not saying this is the best diagnosis short of a wet/leakdown compression test but it is a quick start and it worked for me.
1968 Charger R/T 440 
2004 Dodge Ram 2500 680 HP Cummins with attitude

b5blue

The intake can do it but if the engine is old I would pull a valve cover and see if the umbrella seals are failing on your valves. Re pull some plugs and see what they look like.  :scratchchin: another trick is to change to 50 w oil and see if it reduces the problem...It worked on a 68 Cutlass I had.

Kevin68N71

Quote from: b5blue on June 14, 2009, 09:47:53 AM
The intake can do it but if the engine is old I would pull a valve cover and see if the umbrella seals are failing on your valves. Re pull some plugs and see what they look like.  :scratchchin: another trick is to change to 50 w oil and see if it reduces the problem...It worked on a 68 Cutlass I had.

I will pull the covers.  The spark plugs were a mess.  Some looked ok, two had burned electrodes, two had severe carbon.  No oil on the tips at all (no wet plugs in other words). 

Unfortunately, I have no idea how old the engine is or how many miles.  It's a 1976 440 that was in the car when I got it.
Do I have the last, operational Popcar Spacemobile?

mopar_nut_440_6

Quote from: Kevin68N71 on June 14, 2009, 10:25:24 AM
Quote from: b5blue on June 14, 2009, 09:47:53 AM
The intake can do it but if the engine is old I would pull a valve cover and see if the umbrella seals are failing on your valves. Re pull some plugs and see what they look like.  :scratchchin: another trick is to change to 50 w oil and see if it reduces the problem...It worked on a 68 Cutlass I had.

I will pull the covers.  The spark plugs were a mess.  Some looked ok, two had burned electrodes, two had severe carbon.  No oil on the tips at all (no wet plugs in other words). 

Unfortunately, I have no idea how old the engine is or how many miles.  It's a 1976 440 that was in the car when I got it.

Sounds like a compression test is in order. I would save yourself some money and do the first test I suggested and then do a compression test. No sense pulling the covers and wasting time and money on gaskets if the heads need work and the rings are going away. If the engine is old and your rings are so so and you were to rebuild the top end you would find that the fresh top end would cause more issues with the bottom end. Been there, done that!

Do the tests and if all is poor then make  a decision to just continue to drive it for a bit as is or pull the engine and do a full rebuild.

Cheers,
1968 Charger R/T 440 
2004 Dodge Ram 2500 680 HP Cummins with attitude

b5blue

Well he said it ran good just smoke...valve seals could get him down the road for quite a wile if that helped.

mopar_nut_440_6

Quote from: b5blue on June 14, 2009, 11:25:53 AM
Well he said it ran good just smoke...valve seals could get him down the road for quite a wile if that helped.

:iagree:
1968 Charger R/T 440 
2004 Dodge Ram 2500 680 HP Cummins with attitude

b5blue

I do agree about guys who just do the "top end" can't tell ya how many times I've seen that back fire! That's why I parked mine and waited for a whole rebuild all at one time.  :2thumbs:

Kevin68N71

Whew, no engine rebuild needed.

Seems like problem is solved.  It WAS the loose valvecovers bolts (not sloppy loose but not snug either).  Although I could find no trace of oil drip, I DID have that one plug with oil on the side of the plug.

What I think was happening, as Bronze experienced as well, is at high speed when there was alot of oil pumping in those covers, it oozed out onto the exhaust manifold, and burned off.

Two things I noticed....no more "cloud" on the freeway when I put my foot into it, and the mild oily smell that car has always seemed to have is GONE.

Plus, since those fouled plugs are gone, new tires and everything "super tuned", this car runs better and faster than I have ever had it.  Terrific fun.

I am going to continue to monitor oil usage, but in the meantime enjoying 100% of the car again.  Thanks guys for the input!!!!
Do I have the last, operational Popcar Spacemobile?

69bronzeT5

Thought so! Glad to hear that was the case :cheers:
Feature Editor for Mopar Connection Magazine
http://moparconnectionmagazine.com/



1969 Charger: T5 Copper 383 Automatic
1970 Challenger R/T: FC7 Plum Crazy 440 Automatic
1970 GTO: Black 400 Ram Air III 4-Speed
1971 Charger Super Bee: GY3 Citron Yella 440 4-Speed
1972 Charger: FE5 Red 360 Automatic
1973 Charger Rallye: FY1 Top Banana 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Road Runner: FE5 Red 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Duster: FC7 Plum Crazy 318 Automatic

b5blue

YOU HAVE READ THE FLAT TAPPET WARNING POST RIGHT!  :o

maxwellwedge

With all that other stuff you forgot about make sure you have a current license plate on the car!  :lol:

femtnmax

Quote from: b5blue on June 15, 2009, 05:32:21 PM
YOU HAVE READ THE FLAT TAPPET WARNING POST RIGHT!  :o

B5 is correct.  this is an absolute must.  EPA has changed our engine oils.  You need to use delvac, rotella, etc, or add camshaft oil conditioner such as comp cams sells.   If you dont' you'll be doing that rebuild you don't want to do.
Phil

Ghoste

I wouldn't depend on Delvac or Rotella on their own anymore either.