2 car garage designs?

[mikepmcs]

Exactly what Doug was saying above Cody. It will be most likely a custom build so that means FOOSE prices.   

Go to a lumber store and have them rough you an estimate based on one of your designs.  I did that once and they had to revive me with smelling salt.

[69bronzeT5]

Well Mike, I was actually meaning it'll end up being a standard square garage with a loft room up above (like what I posted in the 3D pictures from the internet). 2 car garage with the loft room up above.

[Aero426]

Well yours is 4 cars I assume? Ours will end up being 2 car but 2 floors.

Mine is a tight 4 car,  36 x 22.    I have three full size and one small car in there.    But...adding a legitimate second floor on to a two car will make a difference in the price.   Maybe Paul can comment on the concrete requirements and how they might change for a second level.  I am no engineer, but I would think you'd need more than a simple 4" slab to have a real second level.   As a compromise, for a single level, you can get something called attic storate trusses which allow you to put some heavier items up in the rafters without obstruction.   You can easily get up there with a pull down ladder.   This will cost more than regular roof trusses, but I'm sure it would be ALLLOT less than a second story.

Like I said, builders will do ANYTHING you want, as long as you can pay for it.    The simple designs are the least expensive, because they can slam them up very quickly.  Once you have quotes on what it will cost, your decisions will be made crystal clear.    New garage projects are exciting.

[bear]

OK I found a way to get the pictures out of the program. Basically its a 24'x36' with a 9' high ceiling overall it is about 16' tall. Each door is 10' wide. I sort of designed it to attach to a house but I'm sure it could stand alone if it needed to.

[Old Moparz]

Cody, you can save a bunch of money by building what is called a "Pole Building" or "Post & Beam" instead of a standard, or typically framed one. My garage is a pole building, & it saved me thousands of dollars. I'll give you a comparison in the actual cost of the difference between the two types of structures. Why I did this, was that the quotes I got for the concrete foundation & floor were insane. I had 3 mason contractors give me prices that ranged from $6000 to $12,000 (in 1997) without the excavation that would probably cost at another $1500 or so.

Both types of structures will need walls, but they are slightly different. The biggest difference is that the pole building has heavier lumber for the vertical poles & the beam that runs along the perimeter at the top of them. That cost is nothing compared to a concrete foundation though. The 20 vertical poles cost me $39 each in 1997 which is $780.00 total. The guy who augured the holes to place each pole in charged $400 for a half day's work. I rented a mixer & bought bagged concrete mix to pour a 12" high footing in each hole for the poles to sit on.

20 Poles  ................................... $780.00
2 x 12's for beams  ..................... $495.00
Auger holes  .............................. $400.00
Mixer rental ................................. $75.00
Bagged Concrete ........................ $270.00
5" Concrete floor & labor  ............$1900.00

Total ....................................... $3920.00

That's close to a $4000 savings from the cheapest foundation & excavation estimate I got. Another plus, is that not only did I save money, I have the basic frame up for the entire first floor. I would still need to frame the walls up if I had a concrete foundation.

Here's a good site to browse through to get an idea of what can be built with a pole building method:

http://www.conestogabuildings.com/

Customer page with some nice photos: http://www.conestogabuildings.com/customercorner.htm

[PocketThunder]

I will have a new thread with pictures of my build as i get a little further along.  Not to exciting to see a bunch of pictures of me shoveling dirt and sand around right now.  I'll hopefully be pouring concrete in two weeks though so look for my thread after that. 

My super tight budget of $7000 is with me doing all the work.  But Bob has a better idea of going with a pole shed if you have room on the land you move to and the local building codes allow it.  I was not allowed to put up a pole building where i live.  I would certainly do the pole building if you can just to save money.  Concrete is expensive.

Paul

[69bronzeT5]

I've been thinking 28x30 with a 12 foot ceiling so I can fit a 4 post lift in it.

[2Gunz]

I think i would skip the Loft and just make the main level bigger with a sectioned off room.

Lofts are a pain.

And I would suspect it will add a bunch to the construction cost.

Besides that plans change.  While A loft now might seem like an awesome idea,
maybe a year from now its not so fun and doesnt get used.

At that point you could just take down the wall and use it as more garage or an office or something.

And as other have said BIG as you can.

And LOTS and LOTS of shelves.

My Garage is full of them and I still need more space.

[Foreman72]

I think i would skip the Loft and just make the main level bigger with a sectioned off room.

Lofts are a pain.

And I would suspect it will add a bunch to the construction cost.

Besides that plans change.  While A loft now might seem like an awesome idea,
maybe a year from now its not so fun and doesnt get used.

At that point you could just take down the wall and use it as more garage or an office or something.

And as other have said BIG as you can.

And LOTS and LOTS of shelves.

My Garage is full of them and I still need more space.

loft/studio would be awesome bro...i think you'll use it a ton

...but gunz is right...all the space you can get...

[ds440]

No loft, but this was a design I did for a client recently.

The owner's space was somewhat limited, plus he really isn't the type to be restoring classic cars.  He's more the 'buy-it-restored' type.  But, he is a sportscar racing fan and was looking to have a garage that looked like a pro race shop or a LeMans/F1 garage.  He was pleased with the design, although I'm not sure if is going to have it built.

[69bronzeT5]

Beautiful garage design DS

[Old Moparz]

I have these photos & drawings of my "pole barn style" garage posted in another thread, but here they are again to give you an idea of how things can fit in a garage space, & not just a sketch or rendering from a garage plan website. Don't mind the shape of my 1st floor, the rear wall is staggered because of my property line, & you won't have to do that. I also have my lift on an angle because the garage is tucked slightly behind the rear of my house & too hard to make the turn. Also note the dimensions so you can see that 2 B-Body cars will fit into half of the shop at only 18 feet wide. This isn't good for a work area, but it is plenty for parking.

Layout before the 4 post lifts & a fourth car squeezed in one winter:


Current layout with both 4 post lifts in place:


Second floor layout which is not crawlspace, but a full height celing:


During Construction:


First Floor Framing:


Center Room of Second Floor:


Right Side Room of Second Floor:  (Don't let anyone say you won't use the loft space, this is only 25%....lol)


Front After Completion:


Before the Second Lift:

[69bronzeT5]

Car 3 ('68 Charger) looks like a Daytona Thanks for posting those Bob! If you don't mind me asking, how much did that cost to build?

[Old Moparz]

Car 3 ('68 Charger) looks like a Daytona Thanks for posting those Bob! If you don't mind me asking, how much did that cost to build?

Cody, The Charger I have is a '68, but I have the Daytona parts for a conversion. That color "paint" sketch was something I did when I was slow at work.....lol

I don't mind talking about the cost of the garage, it's not a big deal. You have to remember though, that other than the concrete floor, having someone auger the holes in the ground for the poles, & a friend doing the electric, I did most of the work myself. My wife helped as much as she could, & a few friends stopped over when I needed them, like getting 20 sheets of 3/4" thick plywood up the ladders to the second floor.

I never added up the exact cost, but a rough number would be somewhere between $14,000 & $15,000 including the concrete. This was all around 1997 & 1998 prices, so materials will be more now. My original "estimate" for a budget was $10,000 but I made changes along the way & also had some oversights I missed. One last thing to remember that's very important is to get several prices on materials & labor from different suppliers & contractors if you can.

For example, the 20 pressure treated poles I bought were 6x6's at 16 feet long. I paid $39.00 each, but one lumber yard wanted $59 each. That's a huge difference for just one item. 

[69bronzeT5]

If you wanted to, you could totally put insulation and drywall on the downstairs part right? Is the structure all wood or do I see a steel beam there?

[Old Moparz]

If you wanted to, you could totally put insulation and drywall on the downstairs part right? Is the structure all wood or do I see a steel beam there?

Yes, I can insulate & drywall, but there's more I want to do before I ever get to it. I stubbed a sewer pipe up through the concrete floor before it was poured, & also stubbed an empty conduit to slide a flexible water line in later. I already have 50 or 60 amps of electric, low voltage wire for phones & other options, & also coaxial coming in underground from my house. The coaxial cable actually feeds my house from the satellite dish mounted on the garage.

In New York, the energy code states that if I want to heat any space I have to insulate it first with the R value that will fill a 6" wall. I have 8" & will be fine. The heating system I want to put in will do both levels, but I'd still like to rough in all the electric, water, & sewer to the second floor before I do that. I did insulate & drywall one area that I am making dead storage for hoods, doors, & other heavy items, so instead of moving things to insulate & drywall, I did it first.

There are 2 steel I-Beams supporting the second floor so I don't have any columns in my way. I also bought an I-Beam trolley & have a chain hoist which is very handy. The steel beams were not that expensive, & were $650 for both of them delivered. I also had them pre-drilled so I can anchor them to the walls with lag bolts & bolt wooden 2x6's to the tops of each as nailers.