Charger Vets Help! I need ideas for crucial suspension upgrades for 68 Charger?

[DRTY440]

I need some suggestions on what are the best performance suspension upgrades that I should apply to my 68 Charger?  My father and I recently purchased the Charger and it is getting media blasted as write this.  The car will have a professionally built 440 pushing close to 550hp.  I want the car to handle better then stock but I don't know what are the best parts to replace or upgrade?  Should I go with polyurethane bushings, etc.  Thinking about going with Edelbrock Classic IAS shocks, .96 torsion bars.  Should I upgrade the sway bars?  I've heard of some replacing leaf springs with competition springs.  Any suggestions, types of brands or kits would be extremely helpful.  Thanks and I look forward to hearing from all of you!!!

[FLG]

Im sure the 2nd gen guys will chime it, but id assume shes gonna be running in a straight line and not around a track correct? What about streetability? I assume you dont want to rattle your teeth out as your driving around.

[DRTY440]

Streetability is what I'm looking for.  I just know certain upgrades decrease body roll and overall handling.  It's definitely being built for driving and reliability.  Main thing is while it's tore apart we want to replace/upgrade instead of later on down the road.

[komninon]

 i think    www.firmfeel.com     will have most of the stuff you need.
good luck.

[mikepmcs]

Type in Mr Angry in the search box and start reading Mike's threads and input from all the other members.  This will answer any question you have about suspension.  I'm quite sure as far as second generations go, Mike's is the most battle tested on the site.

Start with this one just to get an inkling of what you are in for.  Don't worry it's not too bumpy a ride though(hee hee get it) too bumpy a ride ...you see what I did there ..ahh forget it.

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,1774.0.html

[Mike DC]

Good advice so far.  Check the existing threads; we've had plenty of them in the past.


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If you're purely wanting functionality in the handling (not bling):

Stiffen the chassis as the first step.  Eliminate all semblance of tire sidewalls as the last step.  This is not trendy or gratifying in terms of looks vs money spent, this is what works best for the car.



Poly or rubber is a never-ending toss up. 

One comment about it -
Don't forget that 40yo rubber suspension bushings will bear no resemblance to what a brand-new rubber bushing set would feel like.  Don't assume that you need to jump to polyurethane as step#1 just to get anything stiffer than what's under there right now.


 

[DRTY440]

Thanks a lot for the help fellas...much appreciated!  I purchased the Edelbrock classic IAS shocks last night.  Going to with the Hotchkis sway bar kit (HK2255) and Mopar Performance .96 torsion bars.  Anyone have any opinions on replacing the upper A-arms?  What about sub frame connectors?  I didn't think I would get this deep into the car but I have to admit that it is pretty addicting as well as exciting.  Thanks Again!!

[Mike DC]

         
--  If you get one Hotchkiss aftermarket sway bar, then you should probably get both of them. 

--  Lots of guys are happy with the E-brock IAS shocks. 




--  As for the upper A-arms, the swap can be downright useful for the purpose of moving the balljoint backwards and gaining some caster.  Although past that, there isn't any major gain to be had from them. 

I don't think the camber needs altering from the stock dimensions either.  (Yes, I realize that a raked stance will cause more negative camber than stock.  But I think the difference is an improvement in this case.  Modern radials LIKE more negative camber than the bias-plys that these suspensions were designed for.)


I don't like the idea of solid heim joints (or "rod-ends") instead of the bushings in the upper A-arms.  Some of the aftermarket brands are doing this now.  I think it's more of a selling point to push aftermarket A-arms than a wise decision for the suspension in a street car.

[Finn]

A coil over setup would be pretty sick.
I wouldn't go with the AirRide technologies setup yet though, Im currently putting it in mine and it still has some bugs to be worked out. 

[Rolling_Thunder]

strengthen the chassis first - subframe connectors at the minimum. Some people (I included) have gone above with just calling up XV motorsports and getting their bracing kits...   

You'll like the sway bar - the .96" torsion bars will be great for your application - stock HD leaf springs will work as well - Tubular upper control arms leap when adjusting your suspension settings...     Adjustable strut rods are not really needed for normal street driving IMO...     

[DRTY440]

All this advice is great...again, I really appreciate it.  Question, do you think I should upgrade the stock leaf springs with a competition leaf spring or would I really benefit from it?

[Mike DC]

 
You'll benefit just fine if your goal is straight line drag racing.

If you're just talking street cruiser then you'd be better off not doing it.  Use factory staggered 6-leaf springs (standard on Hemi and 440 R/Ts) at the most. 



The XV Motorsports crew actually SOFTENED the rear leaves after starting testing with the 6-leafs.  (Although they added an aftermarket rear swaybar too.)

[Big Sugar]

 
Front Chassis stiffener kit. // http://www.xvmotorsports.com/products/category/index.cfm?cid=105&lvl=1
K member  weld it up yourself..carefully.Read Firm feel  // http://www.firmfeel.com/reinfkfram_b.htm
Lower control arm plates , Mancini ,firm feel.//http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/coarmstpl.html
Upper control arms ,Front and rear swaybars, Hotchkis (best), Firm feel, Addco//http://www.hotchkis.net/search.html?Make=13&Model=1251&SubmitForm=Search
All front bushings replaced, your choice polygraphite  of rubber. PST//http://www.p-s-t.com/c-157-front-end-kits-original-performance-super.aspx
WELDED Subframe connectors Hemi Boxes or gussets. Mancini. US Car tool Magnum force, Auto rust technowlogies others //http://www.autorust.com/k_24251.htmlhttp://www.autorust.com/k_51-1.html
Calverts mono leafs  Calverts suspension, Mancini//  http://calvertracing.com/products.html
Caltracs                 Calverts suspension ,Mancini//  http://calvertracing.com/products.html
leaf spring sliders     Mancini, http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/lespsl.html

Quite a bit of this stuff is available at Mancini's if you're gonna buy bulk this place nmay give you the best deal.
Read this info on rear end setups. http://www.afcoracing.com/tech_pages/leaf.shtml
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,52154.0.html



Good Luck
Ron



http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,1657.0.html

[b5blue]

Some one pipe in about stopping that thing too!

[Mike DC]

 
Stopping it? 


#1 - Absolutely get some front disc brakes on it.  Even the old factory muscle-era disc setups are a HUGE improvement over the stock front drums.

#2 - The rest of the stock system can certainly be improved upon, but it's adequate for a street car.   On normal size street radial tires, going beyond this is mainly just buying additional heat-fade resistance (and possibly some unsprung weight reduction too).  Useful if you like to drive hard and/or if you live in a hilly area.  Otherwise it's not really all that necessary.

       

Personal preference - get power assisted brakes on a 2-ton street cruiser with discs.  It's not vital just for safe operation, but it's a lot more pleasant to live with.

[mikepmcs]

Only thing I'd be concerned about on a power set up is your build and vacuum producing capability.  If you go power and have a crazy cam in there that robs vacuum, you are going to need some assistance from an external pump or reservoir of some kind. 

[Mike DC]

 
True dat.



The more recent trend has been to say "f*ck it" and switch to a hydroboost setup if the vacuum isn't sufficient. 

I don't see much downside to that.  Money, and a bit more load on the PS pump.  Once it's on there, it takes up a lot less space on the firewall near the valvecover than a decent stock vacuum booster.  Probably works more reliably/stronger too. 




But streetable cams & vacuum usually go together tolerably well.

 

[DRTY440]

Vacuum for the brakes is something that I had not thought of.  Especially regarding a radical cam robbing vacuum.  I have been doing some research on the hydroboost and it definitely looks like a pretty good option to go with if needed.  We are definitely putting front discs for sure.  Not sure if we are going to install rear discs yet. 

[Mike DC]

               
If you're serious about it being a street car then you might wanna rethink such a long cam duration anyway.  If the brake vacuum is really far gone, then the idling and low-speed driveability is gonna be heavily affected too. 


This stuff is partly why people build stroker motors so much for street cars these days.  It piles on more hp & torque without having to de-civilize the motor's characteristics (or the rearend gearing) in the process.