Quick question about dist. pad stamp

[bull]

My 383 block will most likely need to be decked and that got me wondering about the original distributor pad stamping. Since it's on the same plane as the rest of the deck is it going to get wiped out? I suppose it depends on how deep they have to go, and I doubt they can just stop milling there and avoid the stamping. Besides, I really don't want a step there even if they could avoid milling that spot. Am I going to have to go back and restamp it? I don't really want to do that because it seems a bit dishonest somehow but I want the original stamping too. Seems like a quandary.

[Challenger340]

Hey Bull
Get the shop to check the decks first, if they are reasonably flat and straight, and you are using a composition style gasket, can you skip the surfacing ?,
that or,
at the very least, explain to them you're trying to retain the original stamping if all possible. Usually it's "do-able" outside of blueprint type building.

I've had many guys express that wish(original R/T SE 383 car), and sometimes it only takes slightly longer during setup, to make sure a guy gets the whole deck at just a couple of thou to retain the numbers(resto stuff).

It involves "splitting the difference" across the deck if any warpage found, to keep the surfacing to a minimum. It doesn't correct to a BHJ perfectly square and trued block, but so what ? If it ain't a race deal who cares ?
It wasn't perfect before from factory and it ran fine, and all you're trying to do is apply a good sealing finish.

If the block exhibits height difference end to end, being NOT parallel to the mains, this can also be cheated, once again, assuming this ain't a blueprint style race deal, by setup, to retain the numbers.
Again, so what if the Piston to Deck Hts. are off a few thou ? the stock Rod length vary by more than that anyways !

Long story short, anything can be done as long as the Block ain't totally fubared, just get "your guy" to work with you.
Bob out.

[bull]

I'll ask them. Thanks.

My problem in that case is that I really do want a blueprinted rebuild, not for racing but for smooth operation and longevity. But we'll see what they say. If they can keep it shallow enough it might survive, depending on how much it's out of whack on that side.

[Sixt8Chrgr]

Hey Bull
Get the shop to check the decks first, if they are reasonably flat and straight, and you are using a composition style gasket, can you skip the surfacing ?,
that or,
at the very least, explain to them you're trying to retain the original stamping if all possible. Usually it's "do-able" outside of blueprint type building.

I've had many guys express that wish(original R/T SE 383 car), and sometimes it only takes slightly longer during setup, to make sure a guy gets the whole deck at just a couple of thou to retain the numbers(resto stuff).

It involves "splitting the difference" across the deck if any warpage found, to keep the surfacing to a minimum. It doesn't correct to a BHJ perfectly square and trued block, but so what ? If it ain't a race deal who cares ?
It wasn't perfect before from factory and it ran fine, and all you're trying to do is apply a good sealing finish.

If the block exhibits height difference end to end, being NOT parallel to the mains, this can also be cheated, once again, assuming this ain't a blueprint style race deal, by setup, to retain the numbers.
Again, so what if the Piston to Deck Hts. are off a few thou ? the stock Rod length vary by more than that anyways !

Long story short, anything can be done as long as the Block ain't totally fubared, just get "your guy" to work with you.
Bob out.

I agree with Challenger. A good shop can make it happen for you without a big deal.