Torsion bar installation problems....

[Blakcharger440]

I am trying to put some 1.06 torsion bars in my 70 Charger R/T. I had already rebuilt the suspension and wanted to upgrade them...havent had the car on the road yet but already upgrading.  

Anyways...I jacked the car up at the frame,loosened both adjusters and then removed both stock bars. The passenger side bar i had removed by loosening the bolt on the strut to LCA location and I just slid the bar out...it wouldnt budge otherwise.
The driver side I was able tap out without looseing the strut bolt. I installed the new bars and tightened everything back up and was ready to let the car down....but I noticed when I looked at the car from the front the driver side wheel is at least a couple of inches closer to the floor than the passenger wheel is.

What is going on here? I took out the removed the passenger side torsion bar again and the wheel still will not droop closer to the floor like the passenger side.
What is the problem?  

[charger Downunder]

Check that the bolt that you adjust the hight with is properly seated up in the lower control arm it should be in a groove.Check both sides .

[The70RT]

Did you remove the rubber bump stops?

[Blakcharger440]

I dont have the bump stops installed yet.

Right now I have the driver side torsion bar installed and the passenger side torsion bar removed. The driver side wheel is hanging lower than the passenger side.

The passenger side adjuster is all the way loose and I have also loosened the strut rod to LCA nut as well...but the wheel just stays put as if it is stuck and will not drop fully as the car is still on jack stands.

Any suggestions? 

[PA Dodger]

Try this to see if it helps       http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,50201.msg551276/topicseen.html#msg551276

[Long Island RT]

The geometry of the lower control arms and strut rods are not the same from side to side.  I learned this after trying to use aftermarket (CAP) lower control arms with stock length struts - No can do.  If you look at it closely you'll see that the angle of each strut coming out of the K-Frame is different.

When the bumps stops are on and the torsion bars are all firmed up - the wheels "rest" at the same height when jacked up.  Ounce you start unbolting things - the wheels will come to "rest" at different heights depending on what part gives it resistance.

Important thing is:  AFTER you have the bars in and the car is on its weight with the adjusting bolts turned approximately the same (and engaged properly) - is it level?