Which 440 should I build...I have 2 and I'm not sure.

[ChargerBill]

OK, I'm getting ready to start on my engine...hoping to have the car done by late spring. The engine will be my winter project once the car goes to paint. So here are the two engines I have:

#1) is a '70 440 that is completely disassembled. The pistons have very little carbon buildup, the crank is forged, the block ahs never been overbored, there isn't any galling in the cylinders and I have all parts to reassemble once the block in Magnafluxed and machined. I did not have the opportunity to actually see the engine run as I bought it disassembled for $300. The previous owner is a very good friend and said it was in a 69 RR before he bought it and disassembled it to rebuild...he just never got around to it.

#2) is a '67 440 that actually runs. The engine pulls very strong and has 67,000 miles on it. It has 915 heads and a 4bbl carb and is currently under the hood of a '67 New Yorker.

So, is there a difference between these blocks? Will I run into issues with either that can be avoided using the other or are they basically the same castings? Am I better off using the block that I know runs, or should I build the one that is already disassembled because the disassembly is already done? The main reason that I was thinking of building the disassembled one is because that way I could simply paint and detail the running one and use it (install it) in the meantime if the rebuild ended up taking longer than I had hoped. Any opinions?

[Chargerguy74]

If I were in your shoes, I'd rebuild the 67 and hang on to the stock bore 70 block.

[cudaken]

 Hey Bill, either block will be fine. They are the same.

I would bulid the 440 that is a part. If there is nothing wrong with the one in the 67 alwise good to have a health back up 440 if something goes wrong.

Neil will say gapp the 915 or 516 heads which ever is on the 67 440. He likes the closed chamber's for better flame travel and higher compression.

Firefighter will tell you to get Edelbrock heads. But I am sure we will all agree that either block would be fine.

                                       Ken

[Tom_440]

If you are going to bore the block, have it sonic checked first. That might make the decision for you.

[max]

i would probablly use the 1970 since it is already apart and leave the 1967 togeather, that way you don't have 2 sets of engine parts laying around to get in your way and loose over a period of time.

i would also recomend having the block cleaned and magnafluxed for cracks before you have any machine work done.

one question, is the 1970 an hp?

that would help me make a decision real quick because if it is then i would ditch it and build the 1967 in favor of the lighter weight rods. those 1970 hp engines rev alot slower.

coarse if i were closer i could take that 1970 off of your hands and then you would have some extra money to build the 1967 the way you want

[cudaken]

 Max, all the 440 rods excpet the 440-6 pack rods are LY rods. 440-6 Packs rod's are beefer and for a long time thought to be stronger. But now, they have feel ou of favor with the HP guys. Due to the extar weight, they come apart quicker than the LY rods that have been worked like mine. Also will revee a little slower as well due to the bigger beam section.

             Bill, keep the 67 440 running just in case.

                                 Ken your friend.

[firefighter3931]

  with Ken and Max...the heavy rods are good for a truck and that's it.   It would have been nice if the rodbolts had been dimensionally increased along with the rod's girth but it wasn't. The rodbolt in a 6-pack rod is the weak link and allways will be. The ly's with a set of ARP bolts, resized, stress relieved and static balanced is the best way to go. By the time you pay for all that machining/parts it ends up costing almost as much as a new set of h-beams that don't have 30 years of use/abuse on them.

Fwiw, both blocks are pretty much equal in strength but if it's going to be a performance build the block should be sonic checked and magnafluxed to check for cracks. I prefer the later 452 heads for street applications because of the hardened exhaust valve seats which are compatible with unleaded fuel. Of course a set of e-heads would be icing on the cake if you really wanted to step up the combo.  

Ron

[Chryco Psycho]

the difference between the blocks is the extra rib cast along the side of the block at about the depth of the head bolts
either block will work 

[ChargerBill]

I have talked at length with CP about the heads, and I will be using the 915's. They will of course be slightly massaged and the exhaust will be upsized and hardened seats will be installed.

The '70 block is not an HP block...wrong stampings and just looking at the rods you can tell they are the standard rods. I was thinking the same thing as most of you - I will likely build the '70 and build one of the extra sets of 915's I have lying around. I'll keep the running '67 block for a backup. As far as aluminum heads go I might consider Indy heads down the line 9actually the whole Indy kit) but don't have the cash now, and aluminum heads aren't really necessary for an engine to make around 500hp, which is right about where I want to be.

Thanks for the input guys.

[firefighter3931]

The LY rods will have a 535 as the last 3 digits in the part number. As for 500hp on pump gas with 440ci.....it's gonna take some heavy porting on those 915's and a big mechanical cam to meet that benchmark. Figure on 270 + cfm intake flow to get the job done. You'll most likely need a custom dished piston if you want to build a zero deck/tight quench 9.5:1 combo with those iron heads.   These are things that you need to do to make it run right on pump gas without having to retard the timing or mixing in race fuel.  

Ron

[Chryco Psycho]

depends where you are measuring the 500 HP

[ChargerBill]

500hp at the wheels wouynd be an insane expectation. Neil seems to have a good formula for HP...915's porting is one of them...I'm going to be asking plenty of questions when I get to that point.

[cudaken]

 Bill, I know a easy way to make 500 HP for $3,200.00. Selling the Blower.

                                     Cuda Ken

[ChargerBill]

Well, as of last Sunday it looks like this is most likely a moot issue....

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,4814.0.html