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Fuel Problem

Started by 71ChallengeHer, September 10, 2008, 09:57:19 PM

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71ChallengeHer

I'm not sure if this is the right area to post this. If not one of the Mods can move it. I'm having a problem with the Chally. After it sits for a week , sometimes after 24 hrs. It takes about 2 minutes cranking the starter and pumping the gas for it to start. Last time I got it out , I had to put some gas in the carb. It has a high volumn fuel pump on it. The fuel filter is clean. It runs great after it's started. It doesn't shut off. Any ideas where to look ?  Thanks

68chrgrwife

did you check the fuel line where it enters the carb? It might be clogged
MOPAR OR NO CAR BABY!
LOVING MY HUBBY: CHARGERMAN68
1973 DODGE CHALLENGER: SOLD :(
1968 DODGE CHARGER RT CLONE (OK, SO IT'S HUBBY'S BUT IT'S MINE TOO, RIGHT?)
2008 DODGE CHARGER
2005 DODGE MAGNUM R/T (YES IT'S GOTTA HEMI)!




hutch

sounds like the fuel line might have a leak between the carb and the pump or the pump and the tank.  Mine did that for a while till I tracked it down.  The line woudl drain down to nothing then it would take a while to get it primed again to fire.  You will never see a trace of the leak unless you put some news paper under your fuel line connection points.  Where you clamp the hose to the steel lines for example or where you clamp it to the pump.
In the words of Colonel Sanders,,,   "I'm too drunk,,, to taste this chicken"

71ChallengeHer

Quote from: hutch on September 11, 2008, 07:15:21 AM
sounds like the fuel line might have a leak between the carb and the pump or the pump and the tank.  Mine did that for a while till I tracked it down.  The line woudl drain down to nothing then it would take a while to get it primed again to fire.  You will never see a trace of the leak unless you put some news paper under your fuel line connection points.  Where you clamp the hose to the steel lines for example or where you clamp it to the pump.
That's exactly what it's doing. There is never anything on the garage floor. I don't smell gas. But, thank you that's where I'll start at.  :cheers:

UFO

Happens to me as well.Others have mentioned that it's the fuel nowadays.Boils/evaporates out of the carb bowls.Next time you try to start it you have to crank it enough to fill them again.
A electric pump /regulator will go a long ways to eliminating the problem.

Try this after a week of sitting crack the throttle manually and see if there's any fuel in the carb.

71ChallengeHer

Quote from: hutch on September 11, 2008, 07:15:21 AM
sounds like the fuel line might have a leak between the carb and the pump or the pump and the tank.  Mine did that for a while till I tracked it down.  The line woudl drain down to nothing then it would take a while to get it primed again to fire.  You will never see a trace of the leak unless you put some news paper under your fuel line connection points.  Where you clamp the hose to the steel lines for example or where you clamp it to the pump.
Thank you  :cheers: That is exactly what it was. I had all the rubber fuel lines replaced. Dry rotted bad. I appreciate you taking the time to help me.  :cheers: :2thumbs:

ipstrategies

I just went  through replacing my fuel line from frame to pump and pump to filter and carb. It would start fine but once it got warmed up from driving it a while it would not start again until it cooled down. The hoses looked ok from the outside but when I took them off they were splitting from the inside.
1971 Dodge Charger SE 383 Magnum
1999 Dodge Durango 5.9
1995 Chrysler LHS

The70RT

Sounds like the needle & seat in the carburetor to me. Happens all the time when the rubber on the neddle gets hard on an aged carb.
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ipstrategies

The70RT was you talking about my problem or 71ChallengeHer ? as far as the needle and seat being a fix? THX
1971 Dodge Charger SE 383 Magnum
1999 Dodge Durango 5.9
1995 Chrysler LHS

The70RT

Quote from: ipstrategies on September 22, 2008, 11:14:48 AM
The70RT was you talking about my problem or 71ChallengeHer ? as far as the needle and seat being a fix? THX


What she had can act the same. I would replace the lines anyway if they are older and would be easier than tearing the carb apart. If that don't work i would say the needle and seat then.
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resq302

I have the same kinda problem.  Long cranking and then finally fires up.  But mine usually sits for about 4-5 days sometimes longer for this to happen.  The rubber fuel lines are fairly new and the carb was just rebuilt.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

ITSA426

I've had them leak through the needle and seat, especially with the recent fuel blends, and even had one AFB that was so porous it leaked through the lower piece of the carb.  Sometimes when they get rebuilt the techs don't get the plugs to seal.  The leak goes into the intake manifold.  Is the car hard to start, like it's flooded, when warm?

ipstrategies

I have a holley carb on mine.
It started fine when cold or after sitting for a week or 2 at a time. After driving it a while and turning off it would not start. I think I have it fixed by replacing the rubber fuel lines pieces as it has not done lately.
1971 Dodge Charger SE 383 Magnum
1999 Dodge Durango 5.9
1995 Chrysler LHS

resq302

Quote from: ITSA426 on September 24, 2008, 02:32:40 PM
I've had them leak through the needle and seat, especially with the recent fuel blends, and even had one AFB that was so porous it leaked through the lower piece of the carb.  Sometimes when they get rebuilt the techs don't get the plugs to seal.  The leak goes into the intake manifold.  Is the car hard to start, like it's flooded, when warm?

nope, fires right up when its warm.  only does this when I havent driven it in a while.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto