Couple of questions on the red and black wires and bulkhead

[mauibarber]

So driving to a car show today (69 charger) and I see my amp guage is pegged all the way over.  I pull over and notice that my big red and big black wires going to the middle bulkhead connector are toasty and the bulkhead connector itself is slightly melted at these two spots.  I also noticed the connector at the alternator (black wire) was crispy as well.  I believe I caught this when it was happening or it could have been a lot worse.

I disconnect the big red wire (at the middle bulkhead) which I believe disconnected my charging system, and limped home.  When i disconnected the red wire the amp meter read zero.

Couple of questions
1.  What is the main culprit of this kind of problem? 
2.  Why can't i seem to find a complete bulkhead connector for sale.  I don't think I want an entire wiring harness just the bulkhead connector (front and back).  Is this available anywhere?
3.  I just want to replace the bulkhead connector, clean all connections and replace the crispy female and male ends of the red and black wire. The wires are perfectly fine because I caught it early. The car has all brand new wires in the engine compartment but the original wires are still inside the car.  Am I crazy to just replace these parts or do I have to replace all the wires inside the car too?
So far I can only find the engine side, http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=002&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=120219242968&rd=1
Anybody sell the other side?

4.  And finally, could this be caused by a bad regulator on the firewall?

Thanks for all help,
Alex

[Nacho-RT74]

Tipical Mopar fail. IMHO is an Engineering departament fail of design ( or whatever )

I think mostly of your questions can it be answered here:
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,33574.0.html

thats the MOPAR way to save that

By now I just have seen one dealer with new Bulkheads ( to 1st and 2nd gens, not to 3rd ):
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Bulkhead-CONNECT-1966-76-NOS-MoPar-ABCDE-GTX-300-Runner_W0QQitemZ140240453014QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item140240453014&

[mauibarber]

That sounds like exactly what happened to me.  Thanks for the information.  I looked closer at my voltage regulator and found that it wasn't grounded very well by the previous owner.  I will clean up all the electrical connections, buy a new voltage regulator and make sure that sucker is grounded real well.

One more question.
I see yearone sells two types of voltage regulators, a mechanical and a electrical for $5 more.  Can somebody tell me which one is better?

NG12   MECHANICAL
RX346  ELECTRICAL

[Nacho-RT74]

Mechanical Unit is the original. is a Mechanical pulsating regulator, Relay kind

Electronic is the same pulsating signal but this time transitorized. Is an upgrade to one field alts to keep same original alt, wiring and stuff. All original setup from mechanical regulator sytem, but now theorically more eficient, without need to jump to 70s electronic system ( regulator, extra wire and double field alt )

anothe reference for that Mopar ( and Phords ) fail is here:
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

Juts posted for reference and pics, BUT I DON'T LIKE THAT!!! half of what they say there is not true

[mauibarber]

So Nacho,
If it was your car you would buy the mechanical or the electrical version?

[Nacho-RT74]

allways electrical if you are not a TRULLY AND COMPLETE PURIST TRAILER QUEEN CAR OWNER.

you could get both though, and test one against the other. They are cheap. I bet you can find them at your parts dealer A LOT CHEAPER, and not from a resto dealer like YR1

[mauibarber]

If I lived anywhere else than Maui you would be right.  I went to the local Napa and the price was $62.  I can buy it for $29 from YO, so its no contest.
Thanks for the advice, I am ordering the electrical one today.
-Alex