Lower control arm bushing replacemnt

[RECHRGD]

Well it looks like I'm going to have to buy a proper tool to get the torsion bars to budge, but that's OK.  My question is;  The nut that that is at the front of the shaft that the bushing goes on will not back off.  The whole shaft turns.  Is that nornal?  Will the control arm move enough once the torsion bar is out of the picture to allow for easy removal of the old bushing and installaion of the new one?  Thanks, Bob

[1970440RT]

     Just replaced my LCA bushings yesterday.  If the front nut spins, usually the rubber is very deteriorated or totally gone.  You don't necessarily need to buy the torsion bar removal tool, you can pry the arm and torsion bar back together or use vise grips and an insulator to cover the teeth so as to not nick the torsion bar.  Dont forget to remove the retainer clip at the rear of the torsion bar in the crossmember.  Once the LCA and torsion bar is out, that will expose the back end of the stud that is spinning with the nut.

     You can also try loosening ( not removing ) the nut with the car on the ground, with the vehicle's weight on the wheels.  This should put enough pressure on the stud to stop it from spinning.  Then raise the car up, back off the tension on the torsion bar, and finish removing the nut. An air impact gun also helps.

     Once you get the LCA off, then you can replace the bushing.  If you are replacing with poly, the existing bushing sleeve can be reused without pressing in a new one.

[RECHRGD]

Well, my lack of experience with suspension systems is biting me in the butt.  I had assumed that once the T-bar was out and rod the going through the lower control arm was removed, the arm would drop down to where the bushing could be replaced without further dis-assembly.  After getting out the drivers side T- bar (and yes I put a small nick in it) I was able to get a hold of the rod going through the arm and then could back-off the nut.  The rubber was completly pushed out of the bushing sleeve, leaving no rubber where it should have been.  However, the rod going through the arm remained firmly implanted and could not be pursuaded to exit it's home of 38 years.  I'll get a bigger C-clamp tomorrow and  push it out.  However, it looks like even after I get that piece out, I still will not have room to accomplish the removal of the old bushing sleeve or the installation of the new bushing (already in a sleeve).  So, after re-reading 1970440RT's post below, it looks like I need to keep on taking things apart until I have completely removed the lower control arm.  Then, and only then will I be able to replace the damn bushing.  IS THIS CORRECT?  I am old and don't like crawling around under a 4000lb. object supported on jack stands.  My gut feeling is to put things back together enough to put the beast on the trailer and pay someone with the proper tools and experience to finish this task.
This brings the next question to light; This car is an original 318 car.  When I purchased it, the 440 was already installed.  It had the R/T rear suspension but I don't know if the T-bars were upgraded.  I remember when working on leveling the car, I had to almost max-out the adjuster up front on the drivers side to level things up.  I suspect I've got the small T-bars still in there.  Could the overstressing of these bars under the added load of the 440 aided in destroying the bushings?  If I get a proper tool to measure them and find out they're the small ones, should they be replaced? Safety?  Thanks, Bob

[Chryco Psycho]

Hey Bob
remove the lower control arm entirely , having Nicked the T bar & having the adjuster almost fully tight tells me you NEED new bars, I would get .96 bars
I wish I was closer so I could help you , it really is not that hard to do

the Easy way to remove the T bars is to undo the front nut on the lower control arm pin First & pry the T bar &  arm out at one time using a pry bar between the K frame & LCA   
Neil

[resq302]

Just out of curiousity.... what is the problem with having a nicked torsion bar?  It looks like someone used a pipe wrench on mine to get them to twist in but the bar aside from the lines is in good shape.

[RECHRGD]

Thanks Neil.  I wish you were closer too.  If I continue with this, am I going to need any special tools (ball joint fork, etc.)?  I was able to get the nut and washer off the pin but it refuses to budge even though there's no bushing holding it.  I was thinking of getting a big C-clamp and put one side on the front of the pin (where the bolt was) and the other on the rear of the controll arm and try to press it out that way.  Dang! I really didn't want to be spending the money for new bars right now, but, your right, they should be replaced.  Thianks, Bob

[RECHRGD]

resq302, from what I've read in other posts here, a nick will create a weak spot that may cause the bar to break under stress.  Not a good thing.  Bob

[jaak]

after loosening the nut on lower shaft, and strut rod,back off the tension bolt in LCA, I remove the torsion bar clip, take a long pry bar between K frame and LCA, and the LCA and torsion bar slide back, the just grab ahold of torsion bar and take a hammer an knock the LCA off the end of the torsion bar, It always comes off pretty easy. I have never used anykind of tool on the torsion bar.

Jason

[Chryco Psycho]

 
with a propane torch & a pickle fork I have always been able to remove the pin with liitle difficulty , not sure why you are having problems
I never use a pickle fork to split joints anymore , just loosen the nut, soak with penetrating oil & hit the splinde hard where the joint goes through it will fall apart  the lower Bj doesn`t need to be separated , it unbolts from the splindle

[1970440RT]

     My LCA's came out with little effort after removing the torsion bars and stud nut.  The one side just got pried out and the other tapped out with a hammer.  I can't imagine what else is holding yours in.  I hate to ask this but you do have the lower ball joint disconnected, right?  You basically have to totally remove the LCA from the car to change the bushing.  I assumed you removed the steering knuckle, lower ball joint, shocks and tie rod ends and sleeves, but if you are only trying to replace the LCA bushing, I can see how maybe some of this stuff could have been left in.  I basically removed my entire front suspension because I replaced all the bushings and joints.  I also blasted and repainted everything while it was out.

[RECHRGD]

1970440RT, thanks for the input.  If I would have had all that info before I started I probably would'nt have begun.  At any rate, I made a Year One salesman very happy yesterday.  With any luck, all the stuff could be here by the weekend and I'll, no doubt, have more questions.  Thanks, Bob

[1970440RT]

1970440RT, thanks for the input. If I would have had all that info before I started I probably would'nt have begun. At any rate, I made a Year One salesman very happy yesterday. With any luck, all the stuff could be here by the weekend and I'll, no doubt, have more questions. Thanks, Bob

Good luck, We'll be here.

[RECHRGD]

UPDATE AND QUESTION.  I've decided that since I have to take so much stuff apart and everything else is now, or will soon be in need of repair, I'm just going to replace all bushings and ball joints.  It becomes much easier when your not trying to figure out how to replace bushings by having to take as little apart as possible.  QUESTION: I have spent the last 2.5 hours trying to get the drivers side upper control arm out of it's home of 38 years.  The forward bolt that goes through the bushing and wheel well dropped out with just a tap or two.  The one facing the rear is not as cooperative.  There is no room to get much of a swing at the end of the bolt with the master cylinder and brake lines in the way.  I've tried forcing a screwdriver or chisle between the washer and UCA support with only a little success.  Tried the vise grip and hammer trick on the bolt head from inside the wheel well and only slipped off the bolt head.  I told the wife that it's a good thing I've gained patience over the years.  Ten or twenty years ago I would have been throwing heavy objects at the car by now.  I'm guessing that even though the rubber looks shot, that it is still gripping the bolt pretty good.  I have sprayed a good amount of WD40 all over the thing and come down to the house for a scotch on the rocks.  Hopefully I will awake tomorrow morning and one of you experts out there will have a simple solution to my latest Charger delema and make me feel stupid.  Thanks in advance.  Bob

[RECHRGD]

OK, I made myself look stupid before any of you had the chance.  I fabricated a 5' long rod out of conduit and was able to knock the damn cam bolt out from the rear.  Then, and only then, did I notice the access patch from the wheel well that I could have easily removed and wacked away at the bolt with no problem.  Oh well, another lesson learned.  Everything is now dismantled and I'll take the control arms to a machine shop tomorrow to have the bushings pressed in and out.  Later, Bob

[my73charger]

This is a very informative thread.  Does everything here apply to a 73 Charger as well?

[mikepmcs]

I have sprayed a good amount of WD40 all over the thing and come down to the house for a scotch on the rocks. 

Booze always makes you smarter, I actually get good and plastered before I work on my car because it makes you stronger too.

It's always good to just back away when you are fighting with something like that.  Most often times you will think of a better way within minutes..  The great thing about this whole thing is next time, you'll be the one answering all the questions helping someone else out.  All these guys/gals have been there with something similar on their cars.  Hang in there and have fun with it!  Just think of how sweet this thing is going to ride when you get it back together.   
Good luck
Mike

[RECHRGD]

Well, the car is on the road now, and yes, it does ride much better.  However, the original reason for begining this journey was to eliminate the strange creeking noises coming from underneath said vehicle.  They are now worse than before!  I greased up the torsion bars and receiving sockets well before installation.  Maybe I should use some silicone lubricant instead of the standard grease and see what happens.  Maybe I should just turn up the Doors CD and enjoy the ride.  Then again, I could have another scotch on the rocks. HMMMMM.   Bob