not charging ???

[6d9 charger]

Here it is .just fired up the car with all new stuff installed over the winter , new modified engine harness from yr.1 new dash harness from yr.1 petronix ignition . new relays regulators etc..
all new ..  with the key in the on position the needle on the dash shows  shows discharge , with the car running still discharge , reving up or idle  no change . i had posted earlier that  the motor and trans are from an 83 318 car . i checked at the altinator  it shows 12.34 volts  anyone have any suggestions , i had the alt checked out when i powder coated it and it was working . im stumped 

[6d9 charger]

ok , so i changed the voltage regulator ,nice clean ground and i'm charging 14.45 at battery and alt. but my gauge in the car is jumping around on the charge side , no discharge , i dont know is this makes a difference but i also had my cluster redone by redline gauges so  that to is all new , what do ya think ?

[NMike]

at idle the gauge usually goes down. the alt doesn't put out enough power to run the car and charge the battery. if you hold it at a high idle the needle shoud be in the charge side of the reading

[6d9 charger]

that i understand , but the needle jumps way too much , my thought was maybe because i have an amp meter rather than a volt meter , it jumps so much , im guessing the stock alt . is about 50- 60 amps at max rpm

[Nacho-RT74]

no, the high charge read when revving up is because since you are not able to get charge at iddle then system tries to get back the power fro a while are on High RPMs... THAT IS NOT GOOD, and is a very bad design fail on Mopars since ever, just saved on mids 70s with powerfull and better designed alts and extra wiring... read this please:

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,33574.0.html

there are several ways to save that, This is the Mopar way

About ammeter and voltimeter. If you can get both, is the best, but if you have to choose, I'd go with ammeter. True need to take care about conditions of everything and original design of ammeters is weak, not allowing to get all the juice reading able to give a full output alt, causing probably overheat, but is the more real reading about the charging/discharging conditions. Not saying Voltimeter doesn't says anything, but amperes is what charge, not Volts. Volts is just a referencial and a consecuence of Amperes draw on the charge.

would it be great to have on cars a 60 amps reading. Stock one gets max 40 amps on scale as far I recall, and they don't support that load for long time.

read the thread I posted, and will understand how to drive that and how to be able to keep everything in working order, stock and still safe.

has been already experienced by several members here, including myself, with LOT of success.