News:

It appears that the upgrade forces a login and many, many of you have forgotten your passwords and didn't set up any reminders. Contact me directly through helpmelogin@dodgecharger.com and I'll help sort it out.

Main Menu

what carburetor will work best for my 383 ? Part II

Started by toupee, May 01, 2008, 10:19:50 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

toupee

Hey all, I read a thread from a fella with a stock 383 and manual transmission wanting to know what carb to run.  Well, I'm in about the same spot.  My motor is a 68 HP.  It is a rebuilt stock motor.  The only add ons are a Eddy DP4B and a set of Hedman long tube street headers.  The car is a 71 RR clone with an auto and 3.55 gears.  I currently have two carbs.  A carter AVS with a vacuum choke (still attached to the stock manifold) and some sort of solenoid on the side that I can't find any info on, and an electric choke eddy 600 cfm.  Should I look to use one of these or be looking for something else?  The car is going to be a street car, no racing. 
Thanks ahead of time!

Ghoste

The solenoid on the side is a dashpot for closing off the throttle blades on a manual transmission car.  They are about the same size and either one is fine for your car.  For me, I would put on the Eddy because with the headers and aftermarket intake you may find that it's running a little lean.  The original AVS ran a three step metering rod and it's difficult to find an old tuning kit for those whereas the Eddy carbs whether they are the AFB (Performer) or AVS (Thunder Series) run a two step and Edelbrock is making kits for those.  It'll making jet and rod changes a lot easier for you (if you need to even do it that is).

resq302

Mopar muscle had an article about how you could take an original AVS and swap out some parts to make it into a 2 step system and be able to use modern parts in it.  I was thinking about doing that to my original AVS Carter 4615 carb because of tuneability problems.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

Ghoste

True, you'd need the two step covers to do it and that's about it.  He already has the two step covers on the Eddycarter so...

resq302

actually, according to the article,  you need to change out the covers, metering rods, and primary jets.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

Ghoste

Sorry, I should have been more specific.  When we were discussing converting to the two step system I was assuming that changing to the two step rods were a given.  I wasn't aware that the jets were different as well though.

resq302

Yes, the 3 step jets are taller to accomodate the 3 step metering rod.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

Ghoste

Ahh, makes sense.  Now you know how many of the three step ones I've changed.  :icon_smile_big: