Orange paint formulas in California

[quikshft]

I'm having some problems getting what I consider to be a good match for hemi orange. I have an old quart of Centari to compare what I'm getting mixed from a local PPG shop, the 'book' formula turned out to be sort of a salmon or muddy looking shade, certainly not hemi orange. I got another quart yesterday and sprayed a card and it's still not quite as bright as my old Centari. Anybody got the exact formula for the no-lead California paints these days?
Droptop, if you read this, one of the guys at autobodystore.com suggested you might be able to help me out on this. I'm in Kingsburg just south of Fresno.

[Drop Top]

I'm in Bakersfield. I've had very good luck with the guys that sell PPG here. Sounds like the people there don't know how to mix or match paint. Have you sprayed the Centari on a card and had them match it? I have a can of PPG base coat Hemi Orange I can see if the formula is still on it or readable for you. I also have the PPG number in my old PPG book. But its in the shop office and not with me at the moment. If your haveing too much trouble I'd b  happy meet you here in Bakersfield and take you to the local PPG store. It will be right on the money.

[quikshft]

Droptop that offer is much appreciated. I did spray my Centari and I took it with me to the shop yesterday. I was told that even if they scanned it and then mixed the paint, there was no guarantee that it would match my card...what's the use of a scanner then? They said the tints are just not right anymore. Sounds like I'm not dealing with people who are knowledgable enough to help me. If you can read the formula on your can of PPG that would be great and a good start. I would even drive down to the store that you do business with to get it mixed. The quart I had mixed yesterday I believe is very close, will probably save that to do the inside of the trunk lid, etc.
I am maybe being a little picky on this, but this is a unique '70 Superbee which obviously was originally hemi orange, but also had a Gatorgrain vinyl top. I have an NOS top to go on the car, but hemi orange was not a color the factory recommended with this vinyl top. So, you can see I'd like to nail the color on this sort of oddball combination. Most Gatorgrain cars were painted burnt orange. Thanks again for the offer to help, if you can read the formula on your can I think that is the next step here.

[Drop Top]

I'll see what I can do.

[mopar_madman]

Glad to see you made it here, I sent you here from the autobody forum. Hey Droptop hope you don't mind I mentioned you, I figured if anyone can help him you could, thanks

[quikshft]

Glad to see you made it here, I sent you here from the autobody forum. Hey Droptop hope you don't mind I mentioned you, I figured if anyone can help him you could, thanks

The internet has a way of making the world a much smaller place. Interestingly I'm only about a one hour drive from Droptop down in Bakersfield, not too far that as often as I do a paint job that I couldn't use the jobber he recommends, especially if they can make/match up the color I need.
I was looking at my car today and found some areas with a bit or original paint left. On the door near the VIN sticker was another decal which I assume was an oil change/maintenance record of some type. I removed that carefully and there was a nice bit of original color underneath. I compared that with the cards I had sprayed out previously and I believe that even my Centari sample is not quite right, it's a little too orange I would say. The last quart of PPG I had mixed is still off, it's simply not orange or red enough. If Droptop can read the formula on the old can he has I can go with that, otherwise I think the Autocolorlibrary might be a good bet as well. I'm certainly appreciative of the help and info from everyone to this point.

[mopar_madman]

Glad to help and welcome to the site!

[Drop Top]

Madman: Glad to try and help out anytime.

quickshift; Bad news. The label was unreadable. Sorry about that. But I'm sure the guys here can help you. I have two places that do fantastic jobs when it comes to getting he color right. One place sells PPG the other Du Pont. I prefer PPG because it covers better. But thats just my opinion.

[quikshft]

No worries, it's not like I don't understand how the label on a paint can gets obscured...
I think I'll give Autocolorlibrary a try. I like what their website reads about matching color without "offsets". It may be the easiest thing for all involved here; I don't have to drive to Bakersfield and I don't take time out of your schedule. I'll at least give them a call and see what they tell me on the phone. Once again I appreciate the offers of help. Following is what Autocolorlibrary states on their home page, sounds pretty convincing.


"We specialize in the antique and obsolete auto colors from years gone by. Our renowned Color Specialists, stand ready to assist you in locating the exact color used on any of the most popular vehicles of the last 100 years.
When we produce original colors, we do not use offsets (colors selected that appear similar but lack the proper appearance in sunlight). We have a complete lab stocked with the correct toners and metallics to make the COLORS OF YESTERDAY come alive today.
Colors are reproduced in our lab using original formulas and standards authentic to the era. Each color order receives a spray-out panel and is CERTIFIED by our LAB to be correct to standard."

[quikshft]

Here’s a question; I’ve already got clearcoat shot over the mismatched color in my engine bay, what preparation do I have to make to that clear before shooting additional base over it? Hopefully just a good scuffing will do?

[Drop Top]

Scuff it really good. I would use a red scuff pad and some Ting.

If you use sand paper you stand a chance of going through. If this happens you will need to shoot a bit of color over that area before reclearing.

[quikshft]

DT just double checking here...I've got base and clear finished in the engine bay, but the problem is the color is wrong. I will be shooting new base over the clear in the correct color (I hope), so no worries about going thru, right? I guess I should ask if the base will adhere well to the clear without scuffing, or do I use the red scotchbrite or even sand it lightly? I believe you're recommending that I scuff the clear real good, yes?

[Drop Top]

Sorry I didn't realize you where going to rebase the color. If it where me I would sand it as smooth as you can with 400 wet. On the areas that you go to metal, hit with your sealer then go ahead and shoot. If you do it this way the finish will be smoother.

You can also just scuff it the way I sugjested above and then shoot it with your base/clear. This way will be much easier. But the finish wont be as smooth. If you just scuff with a scuff pad, it will not take out the orange peel that is already there. Then when you respray it will add to the orange peel and double it.

The only time you would need to shoot a primer/sealer first. Would be if your shooting a compleatly differant color.

In other words. If you just want it to look average like everybody else's. Then scuff and shoot. If you what it to look the absaloot best that you can then sand it smooth and shoot.

[quikshft]

Excellent...I think I'll spend a little more time and sand out the orange peel, at least in the most noticeable areas. Thanks.

[ChargerHound69]

Maybe it is a Fresno, or Central Valley thing.  We can't seem to get the right colors for our cars.  I have been having the same problem trying to find the paint even when I give them the code and the original paint sample.

Good luck with your project Quikshft.

[quikshft]

Hi guys, well this story is having a happy ending. The Autocolorlibrary shipped me a quart along with a sprayout card and I have to say it looks really good. I guess there really is hemi orange in California afterall.