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Urgent query - why isn't my steering column long enough

Started by 71 Bee Man, May 26, 2007, 07:04:38 PM

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71 Bee Man

G'day guys,

just posting here because I need a quick answer if possible.

I have a 71 Charger with power steering. The little steering coupling where the column meets the connector on the steering box has never fit well, so I decided to get a kit with new seal, metal guides etc. I even pulled the column out and painted it all up.

Now, the guides never sat right inside the housing. Trouble is now that when I'm trying to reinstall the steering column, it's as though the thing needs another inch and a half on the end.

It's like the base plate that goes under the dash and secures the column is too protruded and won't allow the column to go in the full distance.

Am i doing something wrong. Like I said the metal hides that sit on the end of the column never quite sat in there in the first place, hence my wanting to tidy it up.

I'm going to keep trying but thought there may be a logical answer out there.

peter
Sydney, Australia.
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Hemidoug

The steering column was designed to collapse in the event of a collision. You need to expand the end of the column. You must have collapsed it when you installed the new bushing. The shaft slides in and out. It may require some force as it is a tight fit and corrosion can make it difficult.
71 R/T 440 6pak, 4spd Mr Norms GSD

resq302

I agree.  I had that problem with my steering column in my 69 Charger and when I rebuilt it, I used the plastic license plate screws in place of where the plastic sheer pins were.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

71 Bee Man

Quote from: Hemidoug on May 26, 2007, 07:22:08 PM
The steering column was designed to collapse in the event of a collision. You need to expand the end of the column. You must have collapsed it when you installed the new bushing. The shaft slides in and out. It may require some force as it is a tight fit and corrosion can make it difficult.

What is actually supposed to collapse ?

I pretty much pulled the column apart, took the wiring out, but didn't remove the ignition barrel, because I wanted to make sure I could put it all back together in a certain time. The shaft did slide in and out, but stayed inside the column, just meant I could clean it up a bit.

WEhat could have collapsed ? The circlip near where the wheel attaches is in the right spot. I can't see how the length could have shortened at all.
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Hemidoug

The steering shaft is actually 2 pieces, 1 that slides inside another one. You need to extend the shaft that connects to the steering box by sliding away from the one that connects to the steering wheel. If you put a pair of visegrips on the shaft near the coupling and hit it with a hammer in the direction of the coupler  you will notice it will get longer. If you pull the steering shaft out of the column you will see what I'm talking about. You do not need to do that in order to lengthen it however.
71 R/T 440 6pak, 4spd Mr Norms GSD

71 Bee Man

Quote from: Hemidoug on May 26, 2007, 07:57:01 PM
The steering shaft is actually 2 pieces, 1 that slides inside another one. You need to extend the shaft that connects to the steering box by sliding away from the one that connects to the steering wheel. If you put a pair of visegrips on the shaft near the coupling and hit it with a hammer in the direction of the coupler  you will notice it will get longer. If you pull the steering shaft out of the column you will see what I'm talking about. You do not need to do that in order to lengthen it however.

But when I had the column out of the car it looked as though that central steel shaft was just one piece. It seemed to slide almost completely out.

I'll try what you said with the vice grips. I can't imagine it being 2 piece, but I'll take your word for it. I know this topic was meant in technical, but it's daytime here and I'm trying to fix it for a wedding.

Peter
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Ghoste


Hemidoug

When you had the shaft out, you should have noticed a spot on the shaft where it goes from round to having 2 flats on either side. That is the portion that slides inside the outer shaft. If it didn't have that, the shaft would not collapse in the event of a crash. You should also see what looks like webbing or netting on the column tube. That is where the outer portion on the column is designed to collapse.
71 R/T 440 6pak, 4spd Mr Norms GSD

71 Bee Man

Quote from: Hemidoug on May 26, 2007, 08:08:19 PM
When you had the shaft out, you should have noticed a spot on the shaft where it goes from round the having 2 flats on either side. That is the portion that slides inside the outer shaft. If it didn't have that, the shaft would not collapse in the event of a crash. You should also see what looks like webbing or netting on the column tube. That is where the outer portion on the column is designed to collapse.

I never had the central shaft completely out of the column.

If what you are saying is right - that the shaft needs to be extended - is this just a simple matter of me pulling the column apart again - right apart this time, with the ignition barrel ect all out - and pulling the central column back to it's proper length ?

Does that central steel shaft come out of the column altogether ?

Thanks agani for the help. Really appreciated.

Peter
Sydney, Australia.
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Rolling_Thunder

I had this problem with my boss's Superbird...      had to use the shaft out of my charger to get the correct legnth and then extend the rod...       I simply just put a small tack weld on it at that point...       :yesnod:
1968 Dodge Charger - 6.1L Hemi / 6-speed / 3.55 Sure Grip

2013 Dodge Challenger R/T - 5.7L Hemi / 6-speed / 3.73 Limited Slip

1964 Dodge Polara 500 - 440 / 4-speed / 3.91 Sure Grip

1973 Dodge Challenger Rallye - 340 / A-518 / 3.23 Sure Grip

Hemidoug

No, just do what I said before. FIRMLY attach a pair of vise grips to the end of the shaft and rap it with a hammer smartly. You will see the shaft get longer each stroke. Keep hitting it until it doesn't move to fully extend the two shafts. Make sure the column is in place and doesn't move. Trust me, you will see the shaft extend to the length you need. You probably set the column on the shaft and that caused it to partially collapse.
71 R/T 440 6pak, 4spd Mr Norms GSD

Hemidoug

Quote from: Rolling_Thunder on May 26, 2007, 08:38:23 PM
I had this problem with my boss's Superbird...      had to use the shaft out of my charger to get the correct legnth and then extend the rod...       I simply just put a small tack weld on it at that point...       :yesnod:

WHY would you tack weld it? It is supposed to slide so you don't get a steering wheel shaft in your chest in the event of a front end collision.....No need to weld it.
71 R/T 440 6pak, 4spd Mr Norms GSD

Ghoste

I was actually kind of wondering if your boss knew you tacked it?

dpm68

QuoteYou will see the shaft get longer each stroke
Okay...that's enough guys...

Big Lebowski

  Yep, I had that problem. There's a shaft in a shaft. The manual warns you IN BIG LETTERS not to pull parts off of the shaft. :brickwall:
"Let me explain something to you, um i am not Mr. Lebowski, you're Mr. Lebowski. I'm the dude, so that's what you call me. That or his dudeness, or duder, or you know, el duderino if you're not into the whole brevity thing."

Back N Black

Here is a couple of pics, first one extended position.Pic number 2 collapsed position, hope this helps.

71 Bee Man

Quote from: Back N Black on May 27, 2007, 09:13:08 PM
Here is a couple of pics, first one extended position.Pic number 2 collapsed position, hope this helps.

I know this is an old thread, but I thought I'd ask another question......

thanks to the members here, I managed to re-lengthen my steering shaft and it's back in the car. The only problem is that the steering wheel can move in and out about 1/2 inch.

I assume this is because when I lengthened the shaft, I didn't replace whatever collapsable pins were in place originally. With that in mind, is it just a matter of putting some kind of pin back in place where the shaft collapses ?

Peter
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RD

Quote from: 71 Bee Man on December 24, 2007, 03:46:22 AM
Quote from: Back N Black on May 27, 2007, 09:13:08 PM
Here is a couple of pics, first one extended position.Pic number 2 collapsed position, hope this helps.

I know this is an old thread, but I thought I'd ask another question......

thanks to the members here, I managed to re-lengthen my steering shaft and it's back in the car. The only problem is that the steering wheel can move in and out about 1/2 inch.

I assume this is because when I lengthened the shaft, I didn't replace whatever collapsable pins were in place originally. With that in mind, is it just a matter of putting some kind of pin back in place where the shaft collapses ?

Peter

yes.  preferably material that was originally used.  what that is or was, i dont know the name.. it seems to be some type of plastic material though.
67 Plymouth Barracuda, 69 Plymouth Barracuda, 73 Charger SE, 75 D100, 80 Sno-Commander

Nacho-RT74

Quote from: dpm68 on May 27, 2007, 08:33:25 PM
QuoteYou will see the shaft get longer each stroke
Okay...that's enough guys...
:rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

on topic:

You don't need to worry about, but if you do, you could fit somehow plastic stick ( teeth stick for example )  and then melt the ends to fill and fit the stick on exterior shaft holes

Just and idea.  :scratchchin:
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

71 Bee Man

Quote from: Nacho-RT74 on December 25, 2007, 11:35:40 AM
Quote from: dpm68 on May 27, 2007, 08:33:25 PM
QuoteYou will see the shaft get longer each stroke
Okay...that's enough guys...
:rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

on topic:

You don't need to worry about, but if you do, you could fit somehow plastic stick ( teeth stick for example )  and then melt the ends to fill and fit the stick on exterior shaft holes

Just and idea.  :scratchchin:

G'day guys,

well....I installed the tuff wheel I bought, and there doesn't seem to be any problems with the shaft or any movement for that matter. When i took the old wheel off I noticed that there's a little circlip which had become dislodged and was allowing play in the wheel backwards and forwards.

Thanks for all the help in this thread by the way. That collapsible column thing had me stuffed.

Peter :icon_smile_big:
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Nacho-RT74

woops... snap ring... wich one was ? lower or upper one ?

be sure they fit perfect on groove. It could jump again and will get some problems since wheel adaptor and next steering collar will meet. Oftenly is not really the snap ring like the shaft groove getting some worn making easy to loose the ring, and if so, groove edges would need to be "sharpened" or shaft replaced. I made to find a NOS shaft and replace.
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html