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I'm in electrical / slow discharge hell

Started by snipernuts, November 15, 2007, 06:36:16 PM

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snipernuts

hi guys!! well, its 11 days before i deploy and i'm still in Charger electrical HELL!

what i have: 1969 Charger SE, 340 4bbl auto on floor, the car only has 1 repaint, everything else is original ( exept motor, it was originally a 318) including all the harness's

Upgrades that i have done:
Electric fuel pump, electric choke, Mopar Performance Electronic ignition, box mounted onder battery box, "blue" constant voltage regulator, 100 Amp altenator, the fuel pump and electric choke are both hooked up to the ballast resistor

what the problem is: well, car starts right up, no problem, run it for about 45 minutes and its starts to get "stupid" to the point where it shuts off, real hard starting but it will eventually start.
so i put a digital multimeter directly across the battery and i can see the voltage got from 14.5v to about 12.5v and the car dies again.
but when it cools off, she fires rigut up runs good for awhile, then starts farting, then dies. :brickwall:

Can anyone point me in the right direction?? or has anyone had this problem? :shruggy:

Any and all ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

thanks Guys!! greg
1969 SE Charger 318 (survivor)
1970 Lemans Sport Conv't
2005 Dodge Rumble Bee

Plumcrazy

I would switch to a standard voltage regulator.  The constant voltage regulators are recommended for racing use

It's not a midlife crisis, it's my second adolescence.

71_deputy

sounds like you are drawing too much current from the dark blue wire- it also feeds the coil and voltage reg. also check the bulkhead connection for the dark blue wire, connector for the ing.switch too.

best way of feeding the fuel pump is off a relay turned on by the dark blue wire( hint when starting the dark blue wire is not powered so using two diodes- one from the dark blue and one from the brown start wire to turn on the relay no matter if you are starting or in run mode )

John Mac
1971 Deputy Challenger 383 4bbl-- 1 of 2 made!!
1967 Charger 440/auto
1973 Road Runner 340/4 speed
2000 1500 Ram Van

Rolling_Thunder

Put your fuel pump to a relay pulling power right from the battery and use a standard voltage reg.    :2thumbs:    you're drawing too much power from the ignition circuit
1968 Dodge Charger - 6.1L Hemi / 6-speed / 3.55 Sure Grip

2013 Dodge Challenger R/T - 5.7L Hemi / 6-speed / 3.73 Limited Slip

1964 Dodge Polara 500 - 440 / 4-speed / 3.91 Sure Grip

1973 Dodge Challenger Rallye - 340 / A-518 / 3.23 Sure Grip

snipernuts

hi Guys!! great idea!! has anyone done this?  any way i can get a drawing ?

thanks!!
greg
1969 SE Charger 318 (survivor)
1970 Lemans Sport Conv't
2005 Dodge Rumble Bee

71_deputy

1971 Deputy Challenger 383 4bbl-- 1 of 2 made!!
1967 Charger 440/auto
1973 Road Runner 340/4 speed
2000 1500 Ram Van

snipernuts

hey 71, thanks !! this is awesome!!  would you have any idea on what kind of relay to use?

thanks!!
greg

28th Inf Div (M)
55th BCT (HEAVY)
HHC 228th BSB
BMT / SAMG
1969 SE Charger 318 (survivor)
1970 Lemans Sport Conv't
2005 Dodge Rumble Bee

71_deputy

1971 Deputy Challenger 383 4bbl-- 1 of 2 made!!
1967 Charger 440/auto
1973 Road Runner 340/4 speed
2000 1500 Ram Van

Nacho-RT74

 I think you don't REALLY NEED conect with brown wire, since just will get 12 volts at start moment, and you can charge the gas pump for couple of second on RUN position ( blue wire ) before start. Carb is enough full to start without need to be gas pumped.

that would eliminate both diodes and the extra splice

In fact on mechanical pumps, gas is barelly arriving to carb when you are cranking, and definitelly no Gas on RUN before start.

:Twocents:
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html