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anybody ever tried

Started by dukeboy_318, December 09, 2007, 07:25:18 PM

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dukeboy_318

I tryd doing a searche but nothing turned up, any body tried Eastwoods no weld body panels attachment method, i cant think of what its called, but its used to attach body panels permantely instead of welding??  thanks for the help
1978 Dodge Power Wagon W200 4x4- 408 stroker/4spd
1974 Dodge Dart Swinger. 440 project in the works.

bill440rt

Yes, if done properly, this method works very well. Fusor is just one company that makes panel bond adhesive (it's real name).
Personally, unless you are doing very small patches in hidden areas where strength is not a concern, I'd stick with a 2-part adhesive vs 1-part as sold by Eastwood.
Both 3M (my favorite) & Fusor both make 2-part adhesives. Follow their instructions TO THE LETTER how to use it. There are places where they recommend NOT to use it. You'll also need their special gun to apply it, a regular caulk gun won't work with the 2-part systems.
I used it in many areas when doing metal replacement on my '69 I'm building. In other areas, I used conventional mig welding where using the adhesive was not appropriate, as per 3M. Do some research before using them, whichever product you choose. 
Good Luck!  :2thumbs:
"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce

moparguy01

most new cars are panel bonded together, at least the exterior sheetmetal. in tests the sheet metal has torn before the glue let go. I wouldnt hang a 1/4 panel on our old cars with it because i'm mostly just too dang stubborn, but i've heard some people do.

daytonalo

Leave the glue for new cars , they were designed with that method of panel attachment . Mig or Tig only on the old crap we play with !

AutoRust

Quote from: daytonalo on December 10, 2007, 08:52:56 AM
Leave the glue for new cars , they were designed with that method of panel attachment . Mig or Tig only on the old crap we play with !

I agree 100% with you on this one Larry.

:cheers:

Nothing to see here folks, its just a Bluesmobile

daytonalo

I have one Friend !!!!!!!!!! :icon_smile_big:

gordo1968charger

when i fit a quarter panel at work,the wheel arch always gets glued,the rest gets spot welded and mig welded.
t
68 charger+4 kids=2 jobs

dukeboy_318

i worried about warping the quarter by welding, thats the only reason i was thinking about the glue idea, what amperage do you guys reccomend, its been a real long time since ive mig welded anything this thin, so i want to make sure to do it right
1978 Dodge Power Wagon W200 4x4- 408 stroker/4spd
1974 Dodge Dart Swinger. 440 project in the works.

daytonalo

That varies greatly , 110 v or 220 . just hot enough to move along without blowing through , obviously only weld in small increments

Mike DC

And absolutely use .023 MIG wire for body sheetmetal. 


dukeboy_318

ive heard people say to spot weld it one inch at a time until the entire panel is welded solid, is this true, does it work???
1978 Dodge Power Wagon W200 4x4- 408 stroker/4spd
1974 Dodge Dart Swinger. 440 project in the works.

bill440rt

I installed a 1/4 skin on my '69 by using an adhesive & welding combination. This method worked well, & it followed the 3M manufacturer's recommendation on how to use the product.
You don't want to use the glue on an exterior seam. You will get a "ghost line" over time. I replaced the 1/4 skin leaving the factory rear flange, upper belt line, & door jamb return edge intact, so all the outer lines would be correct. I welded up the back, across the top, & down again at the door jamb edge one little spot weld at a time. You want to make sure your welds penetrate deeply.
I then glued all along the bottom flanges, at the trunk floor extension, around the wheelhouse, & down by the rocker. This method will also prevent future corrosion, the adhesive seals out moisture which can't get in between the panels. The adhesive is designed for areas like these, & it worked well for me.
For the seam inside the trunk, instead of smoodging seam sealer where the 1/4 was welded I ran a bead of adhesive & forced it into the seam with a small brush. So, it was welded from the outside then glued again from the inside. The 1/4 is going nowhere, it is just as strong if not stronger than a stamped panel now. Also, the adhesive smoothed out very nicely as it cured. Once I sprayed the undercoating, you can barely see the seam.

Like I said, READ THE MANUFACTURER'S INSTRUCTIONS!!!! Used properly where & as intended, you should not have a problem.
"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce


charger_mike75

Mopar muscle had an article on how they used the kit from eastwood. I used the kit from Eastwood to do my front floor pans and it worked great. And it was a two part adhesive.

suntech

I think the body parts should be designed to work with the glue, to get it right. Bigger flanges, and stuff like that. Now , when weight is so important for the manufactors, they use a lot thinner sheet metal than before, hence more difficult to weld, spesially bodyshops that do insuranse work, etc.
The onlt place i would use it on a Charger, or any old car, would be to put on new door skins, and maybe the C pillar area.
Everywhere else i would use 0,6 mm (.023) wire, and weld.
Since we only live once, and all this is not just a dressed rehearsal, but the real thing............ Well, enjoy it!!!!

69bronzeT5

Quote from: daytonalo on December 10, 2007, 08:52:56 AM
Leave the glue for new cars , they were designed with that method of panel attachment . Mig or Tig only on the old crap we play with !


I totally agree Larry. It would be weird thinking your Charger's body is glued together :lol:
Feature Editor for Mopar Connection Magazine
http://moparconnectionmagazine.com/



1969 Charger: T5 Copper 383 Automatic
1970 Challenger R/T: FC7 Plum Crazy 440 Automatic
1970 GTO: Black 400 Ram Air III 4-Speed
1971 Charger Super Bee: GY3 Citron Yella 440 4-Speed
1972 Charger: FE5 Red 360 Automatic
1973 Charger Rallye: FY1 Top Banana 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Road Runner: FE5 Red 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Duster: FC7 Plum Crazy 318 Automatic

BigBlockSam

QuoteI agree 100% with you on this one Larry.

:yesnod:
I won't be wronged, I wont be Insulted and I wont be laid a hand on. I don't do these things to others, and I require the same from them.

  [IMG]http://i45.tinypic.com/347b5v5.jpg[/img

tan top

Quote from: BigBlockSam on February 02, 2008, 11:35:43 PM
QuoteI agree 100% with you on this one Larry.

:yesnod:
 


   :yesnod: ok for modern junk but for real cars  weld   :yesnod:
Feel free to post any relevant picture you think we all might like to see in the threads below!

Charger Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,86777.0.html
Chargers in the background where you least expect them 
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C500 & Daytonas & Superbirds
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,95432.0.html
Interesting pictures & Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,109484.925.html
Old Dodge dealer photos wanted
 http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,120850.0.html

joesykora

I have yet to tackle the body work of my charger although I wish I could walkout into the garage and find it done. I would stick with the welding, gluing is for models. Welding just seems to be stronger in the projects that I have seen.