Achieving a "Rake" stance

[joflaig]

I'm running 235/60/15 on the front and 275/60/15 on the rear. The torsion bars had been cranked down an inch or more but the front tires were rubbing so I'm  basically back to a more stock look. Anyone out there running something slighly less tall on the front with cranked down torsion bars for a more raked look? I thinking of replacing the front tires, but it would be nice to see where I'm headed firtst.

[terrible one]

I think that to get that true "look" you're going to have to raise the back some too. There's only so much you can do up front, as if you crank the t-bars too low the tires will rub (as you said) and then the car will be hitting every bump you come across. Same with smaller tires. I wouldn't recommend air shocks or shackles for the back, but those are two common options that will help you out. I'd say a fresh set of leaf springs (perhaps HD if you don't already have them) and then a bit low on the torsion bars should have you where you'd like to be.

[Charger1973]

I have air shocks for now, even though I dont care for them. I will change them out for regular shocks when I get the HD springs.  I dropped the front a bit with the torsion bars too.  My wheels are all the same size...  I like it that way but I also want another set of wheels with wide tires for the back so I can change the look once in a while.   

[8WHEELER]

My car is this low, 1-1/2in lowering blocks in the rear, and lowered 2in in the
front. I am running 245/60/15 on the front and 275/60/15 rear, my front tire
rubs just a little at full turn to the left, but it just shines up the frame
rail just a little, causes no problems for me, 9yrs this way now with the larger front
tire.

Dan

[keepat]

Lower the front with 2" drop spindles and keep the torsion bar tight for the best ride!
Pat

[Hemidog]

For my rake, i'm thinking about buying 225/60/15 in the front, and 295/50/15 in the back, new leaf springs, and maybe crank the torsion bars a bit.
any opinions about the front tire? havent seen anyone with that tire size.

[375instroke]

On my '69 Coronet, I had 2" lowering blocks in back, and I cut down the front jounce bumpers to 3/8" thick with the control arms touching them.  The K-frame was about 3" off the ground.  The front tires were 235/60-15 on 6.5" stock steel rims and the back were 275/60-15 on 7" steel wheels.  There were factory notches in the front wheel lip that I extended about 1" for clearance.  After that there was no rubbing anywhere up front, and in back, the top of the tire would touch the inner wheel well.

[Ghoste]

I don't like lowering the torsion bars too much, as mentioned it gets things a little loose up frotn for my taste.  If you need more rake, try new springs in the back or have the old ones re-arched.

[RD]

here is the easiest approach to giving you the 1"- 1 1/2" lift in the back.  remove the front leaf spring mount from the leafspring, turn it upside down and mount it. voila!  a higher ass end.  The maxwedge guys did this back in the early sixties for better launches.

[keepat]

here is the easiest approach to giving you the 1"- 1 1/2" lift in the back.  remove the front leaf spring mount from the leafspring, turn it upside down and mount it. voila!  a higher ass end.  The maxwedge guys did this back in the early sixties for better launches.

I think you have that backwards! If you flip the front leafspring on the rear of a B body you will LOWER the car by 1"

[RD]

here is the easiest approach to giving you the 1"- 1 1/2" lift in the back.  remove the front leaf spring mount from the leafspring, turn it upside down and mount it. voila!  a higher ass end.  The maxwedge guys did this back in the early sixties for better launches.

I think you have that backwards! If you flip the front leafspring on the rear of a B body you will LOWER the car by 1"

holy shnikes... i wonder if my dyslexia has caused me to believe something that is inaccurate... wont be the first time, thanks for the correction.