Getting rid of the booster

[THE COLONEL]

Well, since my power booster is bad, a friend was telling me to undo the 4 bolts to the Master Cylinder, and then go under the dash to remove the booster.  Are these bolts for the booster going into the firewall, on what looks to be a backing plate for the booster?  I first need to make sure I have the rights bolt I'm looking at.  I not a small skinny man, so its hard to lay under the dash.  I just want to make sure they are the right ones before I remove them.  I am still in the learning process with this kind of stuff.  After I would remove the MC, and the booster, what is next to get to have manual brakes?  He said it is quite easy to do to get it driving again.  Thanks in advanced.

[John_Kunkel]

The booster has four studs with nuts under the dash, two on either side of the steering column bracket. The tool that works best for me is a deep 1/4" drive socket with a u-joint on a long extension.

It's not a simple matter of just bolting a manual MC in place of the booster, the reinforcement plate that mates to the firewall is different and mounts the MC higher; also, the attach point on the pedal is higher so a different pedal is often needed.

[Just 6T9 CHGR]

John is correct about what he said except the same pedal assy is used.....just have to discard the bellcrank linkage & get a manual brake pushrod  (just did the opposite swap on my car....manual to power)

Manual masters also have the lines coming in from the fender side......might need new lines or if you are careful you can bend yours

[69chargeryeehaa]

i'll tell you something i'm blown away by, sorry if it does'nt help answer your question, but i just picked up a 69 charger r/t, and drove it home last week, it's a real r/t 440/727, blah, blah, ect....i had a 69 charger with the same drivetrain but it was a 318 car originally, transplated 440 with 10" drum brakes all round and power booster, i replaced EVERYTHING on that car and the pedal effort was really really hard, new master, booster, lines, flex hoses, wheel cyls, hardware, ect....EVERYTHING.  Now to the rest of my story, so i pick up this new (to me) charger R/T, 52000 original miles, mint car, and it has 11" drum brakes, manual (no booster) and this car stops like power disk brakes!!!!  with no booster, it stops 10 times better than my old charger, and i was thinking i'd leave it drum and manual, since it's just a cruiser, i was going to go disk, but after driving the car 1200mi home, i'm perfectly happy with the brakes.  I remember playing this game with my 68 mustang, manual drum brakes all round, and i had to buy over 4 master cylinders before i got one that worked proper.  My new R/t has the original master cylinder, it's the small one, different housing, and lines come out the other side as mentioned, and it works GREAT.  This car really has totally changed my opinion about power brakes, and for me at least it's fine.  I really think the key is in getting the right master cylinder.

[Brock Samson]

yeah but the deal with the drum brakes is they fade after they heat up,.. i guess that might not be an issue for some folks but hard as i drive and  here in san fran with the hills it sure is... Congrats on your new charger yeeeehaaaa!

[69chargeryeehaa]

yeah but the deal with the drum brakes is they fade after they heat up,.. i guess that might not be an issue for some folks but hard as i drive and  here in san fran with the hills it sure is... Congrats on your new charger yeeeehaaaa!

there's no doubt that there are benifits to disk brakes, they're stronger, work better, less fade, less pedal effort.  I'm just amazed how well drums work when setup properlly, and using the right parts.  My 74 beetle has manual drum brakes, and i could put your face into the windshield at any time, those brakes work amazing, and they do not fade at all, they are so oversized to the car it's like overkill.  I'm sticking with the drum brakes on the charger, in san fran, i'm sure disks would be in order; but even with drums, you got at least 2 good stops before they fade, and that's all i really need.

[Back N Black]

yeah but the deal with the drum brakes is they fade after they heat up,.. i guess that might not be an issue for some folks but hard as i drive and  here in san fran with the hills it sure is... Congrats on your new charger yeeeehaaaa!

there's no doubt that there are benifits to disk brakes, they're stronger, work better, less fade, less pedal effort.  I'm just amazed how well drums work when setup properlly, and using the right parts.  My 74 beetle has manual drum brakes, and i could put your face into the windshield at any time, those brakes work amazing, and they do not fade at all, they are so oversized to the car it's like overkill.  I'm sticking with the drum brakes on the charger, in san fran, i'm sure disks would be in order; but even with drums, you got at least 2 good stops before they fade, and that's all i really need.

We need pics of this new Charger!

[69chargeryeehaa]

We need pics of this new Charger!

[Back N Black]

Very nice!!!!!! I have Black with red stripe.I should have bought a runner and not a project.

Oops! sorry for cutting in on your thread.

[skip68]

I've got the manual disk brake conversion and I think it stops better than power brakes.      Good luck with the COLONEL.    Chuck..........

[lilwendal]

Skip, What master cylinder did you use?  I'm planning the same route.  Originally a power drum car that I would like to do manual rear drum and front disc.  Any help with a proven set up?  Thanks in advance

[skip68]

I don't know what it is.     The guy I got the car from had it done. I'll see if I can find out what it is.  He did tell me when I bought the car that it was converted and he had to change the brake lines and wheels to 15's but I can't remember.    My car was a 318/904, power drum car that he changed to a 440/727, manual disc car.     Just a side note COLONEL and everyone, if you are building a hot motor with little vacume you will want manual brakes.      Chuck................

[terrible one]

I'm doing the exact same as lilwendal.

I have sourced out the manual master cylinder pushrod, as well as the manual firewall bracket and some 15" wheels for the front, as well as front disc spindles and caliper brackets from a '74 Charger. What master cylinder to use? Does anyone know? skip68, is there any way you could just write down the number on your MC?

[skip68]

Yes, I'll go downstairs right now and take a look.  Chuck...........

[terrible one]

Yes, I'll go downstairs right now and take a look.  Chuck...........

Thanks buddy! 

[skip68]

I can't find any part numbers on it.       I wonder if the numbers are inside it or on the bottom.  anybody know?   Chuck..........

[terrible one]

The numbers should be on the bottom. I guess that might be kind of hard to see when installed, huh?

Maybe just hold a camera with flash under it and try to catch the numbers? Thanks for your help regardless, skip.

[skip68]

Thank's, I'll see what I can do.  I do remember now that the front disc are from a 1978 magnum if that helps any.  He told me that his machanic said that was the way to go.   Chuck.............

[skip68]

OK !  I had to crawl under my car to get the info.    My master cylinder is a Wagner Lockheed part # FF 80559 with the lines going in on the fender side.    I don't know if that's good or bad but I know it works good.  Hope this helps you terrible one.  Good luck with your car.     Chuck............

[terrible one]

OK !  I had to crawl under my car to get the info.    My master cylinder is a Wagner Lockheed part # FF 80559 with the lines going in on the fender side.    I don't know if that's good or bad but I know it works good.  Hope this helps you terrible one.  Good luck with your car.     Chuck............

Thank you skip! I'll go to the parts store today with that info. I appreciate it!

[Just 6T9 CHGR]

The master that comes with the SSBC disc kit is one from a 71-74 A body....these masters are still available new