Mobile1 10w 60

[Animal]

Any oil gurus out there? 

Got hold of 15 gallons of mobile 1 10w 60 fully synthetic motor oil , the 440 motor has covered 1500 miles , just wondering if there's a problem using this oil.

I normally use Valvoline 20w 50 , but getting hard to get hold of in England , so I started using Kendall 20w 50 oil , but when the motors not started for a few days , the tappits take a while to quieten down, since using the Mobil , the tappits are quiet on start up.

I've heard you should'nt use fully synthetic on a fresh engine , but what are the problems of me using if if any?

Just thought the thinner viscosity @ cranking (10w) & the higher & high temp (60) would be better than the 20w 50 oil.

Thanks in advance.

Adam.

[Chryco Psycho]

I personally wouldn`t use it , 60 weight oil is excessive & your engine doesn`t have enough miles to switch to synthetic IMO
 

[Ghoste]

No oil guru myself but 60w sounds like some extreme temp stuff to me.    As for using it to break in an engine, I've heard it's because it won't let parts that need tobe seated to one another do this properly, but again, I don't really know that for fact.

[is_it_EVER_done?]

Animal: I don't believe that European and U.S. (SAE) specs are the same. The reason I say this is that I had A BMW a couple years ago and it called for either 10W-60 oil (BMW brand that I learned was a Casterol re-brand), or SAE 10W 30.

If you are having valvetrain/lifter noise, it would indicate that you are using too heavy a weight oil regardless of how it's measured. I would recommend that you mix the oil you have with a same brand 5W-20 (50/50 mix) as anything over an SAE 30 on the high end is far to heavy a viscosity for anything other than a .003 bearing clearance, or some other useless huge clearance.

Keep in mind that Nascar engine use 10W-30 oil at 8000 RPM. England (which is a fairly cold climate) should not be above that oil rating, and probably even less (SAE 5W-20) in a synthetic.

As far as if you should use synthetic in a new engine, Of course you should if you are after maximum protection. I use "standard Dyno" oil for cam break in and for the first 100 or so miles after that because I change them out at those intervals just because they are much cheaper, but after that, synthetic is the only thing that should be used as it is so far superior to Dyno oil that it's ridiculous. Keep in mind that new cars use synthetic from the start (about 20 to 30 million of them over the last several years), so there is no valid reason to not use synthetics from the start (other than being a cheap bastard like me).

In any case, you should be far better off mixing it with a SAE rated 5W-20 for your "old school" designed 440 if you have normall bearing clearances and flat tappet cam.

[Animal]

Animal: I don't believe that European and U.S. (SAE) specs are the same. The reason I say this is that I had A BMW a couple years ago and it called for either 10W-60 oil (BMW brand that I learned was a Casterol re-brand), or SAE 10W 30.

If you are having valvetrain/lifter noise, it would indicate that you are using too heavy a weight oil regardless of how it's measured. I would recommend that you mix the oil you have with a same brand 5W-20 (50/50 mix) as anything over an SAE 30 on the high end is far to heavy a viscosity for anything other than a .003 bearing clearance, or some other useless huge clearance.

Keep in mind that Nascar engine use 10W-30 oil at 8000 RPM. England (which is a fairly cold climate) should not be above that oil rating, and probably even less (SAE 5W-20) in a synthetic.

As far as if you should use synthetic in a new engine, Of course you should if you are after maximum protection. I use "standard Dyno" oil for cam break in and for the first 100 or so miles after that because I change them out at those intervals just because they are much cheaper, but after that, synthetic is the only thing that should be used as it is so far superior to Dyno oil that it's ridiculous. Keep in mind that new cars use synthetic from the start (about 20 to 30 million of them over the last several years), so there is no valid reason to not use synthetics from the start (other than being a cheap bastard like me).

In any case, you should be far better off mixing it with a SAE rated 5W-20 for your "old school" designed 440 if you have normall bearing clearances and flat tappet cam.

So i should mix (50/50) the 10w 60 with 5w 20 , I'll wait for your conformation is it ever done.

Thanks Guys.

Adam

[firefighter3931]

What kind of oil pressure readings are you getting ? at cold idle ? Hot idle ?

What kind of rings did you use ? chrome moly ? cast ? The chrome moly rings seat up very fast, fwiw.




Ron

[Animal]

Hi Ron , don't know what the rings are , all I know is my head is spinnin , cos i can't get hold of Valvoline , also , all the places I've been to in England have never heard of Rottella diesel oil.

So , all I wanna know is , "WHAT'S BEST FOR MY 440".

Oil pressure is around 80 psi , cold , 60 psi hot , this is @ idle.


Thanks Guys.

[firefighter3931]

So , all I wanna know is , "WHAT'S BEST FOR MY 440".

Thanks Guys.

Any good performance motor oil will be fine and see if you can get some GM EOS and throw that in the crankcase while you're at it. The EOS will have the EP additives needed to keep your cam/lifters happy. 

Can you get any diesel oil over there ? Mobil 1 delo 15/40 ?



Ron

[Animal]

Ron, never heard of engine oil suppliment over hear , maybe they go under a different name.

If I find a 15w 40 diesel oil over here , would this be the oil to use , ewill try to find a mobil of course

[firefighter3931]

Ron, never heard of engine oil suppliment over hear , maybe they go under a different name.

If I find a 15w 40 diesel oil over here , would this be the oil to use , ewill try to find a mobil of course

Do you have any GM dealerships in the UK ?

Comp Cams sells a breakin lube that would work. 



Ron

[Animal]

Can get hold of 10w 40 semi synthetic diesel oil , would this be any good?

Thanks Guys.