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brake booster help

Started by charger01, April 14, 2007, 12:23:45 AM

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charger01

I purchased a new gold power brake booster off of ebay a couple of weeks ago.  The manufacturer stated it works for drum brakes or for disk.  Every other place I look has two different types.  What is the difference?  Secondly I went to install it on my car and when I install the master cylinder it seems like the pushrod is out too far and I had to tighten the master cylinder down with the nuts to pull it close to the booster.  Is this correct, or there some adjusting necessary somewhere?  thanks in advance guys.

daytonalo

No , you can not pull in master with nuts . brakes will drag for sure

Just 6T9 CHGR

There are 2 different types of boosters.  The one you are describing that is held together with a clamp is the Midland-Ross style that was used on drum brake cars.
The second style is the crimped together style Bendix dual diaphragm booster used with disc brake cars (very hard to find)

As far as the master goes, it depends on the master you are using I think.  I am doing this conversion now.   The master that was suppllied with my SSBC brake kit was an A body unit that has the piston retained with a C-clip in the back so the piston is flush with the body of the master.

My new "correct" master has the piston retained with a bolt in the center of the body of the master so the piston protrudes past the body.  (see the pic)
Putting the new master on the booster makes it not sit "flush" on the booster all the way because of this.  Im assuming that this is normal due to the design of the master.......
Chris' '69 Charger R/T


chargermick

Chris, I'm thinking that maybe I got the "wrong" master from SSBC also. This might be why I have such a soft pedal since the entire brake system is new. Where did you get the master shown in your pic? Why are the brake lines in your pic on the passenger side, while mine are on the drivers side? i really like the SSBC setup, but I'm beginning to think that my problem is with a crappy master.

resq302

The best place to try and find a master like the one Chris has in his pic is checking old Mom and Pop type of stores as the masters seem to be really hard to find just like the boosters.  All non-hemi disc brake cars from 68-69 ran out towards the engine while the hemi master cylinders ran out towards the fender side.  Probably due to heat build up and such since the bores and reservoirs are exactly the same, the only difference is the sides they exit out for the lines.

You also might luck out by checking RockAuto.com or Partsamerica.com to see if they have any in stock.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

Chatt69chgr

Autopartsgiant.com doesn't have the booster either even though it's on their SLOW website.  They do have some good prices but charge the handling fee for every part.  So you really can't afford to buy any low dollar stuff from them.  And they don't answer the phone on Sat afternoons even though they are supposedly open.