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Driveshaft

Started by 69bronzeT5, March 13, 2007, 11:19:27 PM

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69bronzeT5

Basically, we have two driveshafts for my car. Ones out of the Charger back when it had a 318 and the other is from the Newport we got the 383 out of. The 318 one is too small and the 383 Newport one is too big. Do you guys think it will be cheaper to get somebody to make the 383 one smaller or just buy one that fits?
Feature Editor for Mopar Connection Magazine
http://moparconnectionmagazine.com/



1969 Charger: T5 Copper 383 Automatic
1970 Challenger R/T: FC7 Plum Crazy 440 Automatic
1970 GTO: Black 400 Ram Air III 4-Speed
1971 Charger Super Bee: GY3 Citron Yella 440 4-Speed
1972 Charger: FE5 Red 360 Automatic
1973 Charger Rallye: FY1 Top Banana 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Road Runner: FE5 Red 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Duster: FC7 Plum Crazy 318 Automatic

Ghoste

Buy one that fits.  Then it's new and straight and balanced and all that good stuff.

69bronzeT5

Ok and did anybody notice that Im asking mechanical questions???
Feature Editor for Mopar Connection Magazine
http://moparconnectionmagazine.com/



1969 Charger: T5 Copper 383 Automatic
1970 Challenger R/T: FC7 Plum Crazy 440 Automatic
1970 GTO: Black 400 Ram Air III 4-Speed
1971 Charger Super Bee: GY3 Citron Yella 440 4-Speed
1972 Charger: FE5 Red 360 Automatic
1973 Charger Rallye: FY1 Top Banana 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Road Runner: FE5 Red 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Duster: FC7 Plum Crazy 318 Automatic

Ghoste

Relax Bronzy.  You don't have to say it, just do it.

Is there a shop near you that can fab one up for you?  You and Matt are kind of in the boonies of BC aren't you?

69bronzeT5

Im about 45 mins from the capital of BC.
Feature Editor for Mopar Connection Magazine
http://moparconnectionmagazine.com/



1969 Charger: T5 Copper 383 Automatic
1970 Challenger R/T: FC7 Plum Crazy 440 Automatic
1970 GTO: Black 400 Ram Air III 4-Speed
1971 Charger Super Bee: GY3 Citron Yella 440 4-Speed
1972 Charger: FE5 Red 360 Automatic
1973 Charger Rallye: FY1 Top Banana 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Road Runner: FE5 Red 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Duster: FC7 Plum Crazy 318 Automatic

Ghoste

You should have no trouble finding a place to do it then.  You could ask them to price cutting the other one down but I'd bet it isn't that much cheaper.

69bronzeT5

Well we got this one guy here in town. Hes awesome at welding and whatnot. Hes cheap too. He welded the exhaust on my dads truck and there was a part almost impossible to weld, he did it.
Feature Editor for Mopar Connection Magazine
http://moparconnectionmagazine.com/



1969 Charger: T5 Copper 383 Automatic
1970 Challenger R/T: FC7 Plum Crazy 440 Automatic
1970 GTO: Black 400 Ram Air III 4-Speed
1971 Charger Super Bee: GY3 Citron Yella 440 4-Speed
1972 Charger: FE5 Red 360 Automatic
1973 Charger Rallye: FY1 Top Banana 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Road Runner: FE5 Red 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Duster: FC7 Plum Crazy 318 Automatic

Ghoste

It's up to you but I'd prefer to take it to a place that knows driveshafts.  You want it laser straight and balanced perfectly.

69bronzeT5

Feature Editor for Mopar Connection Magazine
http://moparconnectionmagazine.com/



1969 Charger: T5 Copper 383 Automatic
1970 Challenger R/T: FC7 Plum Crazy 440 Automatic
1970 GTO: Black 400 Ram Air III 4-Speed
1971 Charger Super Bee: GY3 Citron Yella 440 4-Speed
1972 Charger: FE5 Red 360 Automatic
1973 Charger Rallye: FY1 Top Banana 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Road Runner: FE5 Red 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Duster: FC7 Plum Crazy 318 Automatic

mikepmcs

Quote from: 69bronzeT5 on March 14, 2007, 12:11:48 AM
Well we got this one guy here in town. Hes awesome at welding and whatnot. Hes cheap too. He welded the exhaust on my dads truck and there was a part almost impossible to weld, he did it.

Yup welding has nothing to do with balancing a driveshaft.  Big deal and it has to be done right!!!

M
Life isn't Father Knows Best anymore, it's a kick in the face on a saturday night with a steel toed grip kodiak work boot and a trip to the hospital all bloodied and bashed.....for reconstructive surgery. But, what doesn't kill us, makes us stronger, right?

Chatt69chgr

I don't know what rear end you are running but the driveshaft out of the 318 should be too long.  It could be shortened.  It has 2-1/8 inch u-joints which are the 7260 series.  They are the small ones.  But are probably adequate for your application.  Don't know what size your pinion yoke is nor the slip yoke in the transmission.  The Newport driveshaft can't be shortened I don't think.  It's a C-body unit and due the the type of construction (internal balancing), you cannot shorten them.  Even a used driveshaft needs to be run on a balancer.  Here in Chattanooga, I found out that I can have a new driveshaft made for $200 and that includes him balancing the piece after it is all welded up.  Doesn't include the new u-joints.  All in all, I just don't see any good reason to mess with an old driveshaft.  But I know a lot of these "restorers" stick them in cars that they are flipping.  But they don't have to live with the car.  My 2 cents worth.

41husk

I had mine cut and welded to fit my Challenger it coast me $50 and looks and works great,  when I changed fro a 81/4 rear to a 83/4 my original shaft was to long I could have bought a used one for about the same price, but by measuring I knew the one that I had cut would fit.
1969 Dodge Charger 500 440/727
1970 Challenger convertible 340/727
1970 Plymouth Duster FM3
1974 Dodge Dart /6/904
1983 Plymouth Scamp GT 2.2 Auto
1950 Dodge Pilot house pick up