need your advice on (stock) drivetrain problems Part I

[CB]

Ok replacing a cheap u-joint won't keep me driving thru the summer

Problems surfaced yesterday when the car was on the bridge for the first time in 2 years I own her 

The technician told me the engine passed the compression test, around 12 bar on each cylinder. So no big bucks need to spend now exept for belts, brackets etc...

Lifted the Charger up and this was the verdict:
1 engine bracket is broke causes stress on different parts like trans cooling lines
the trans need to be removed to replace the front seal
the drive shaft seems to be welded on at the front side , don't ask me how, didn't have a close look to remember.
u-joint needs to be replaced
prolly the rear axle needs a good maintenance, and the leave springs are like overtime bananas.

I know it would be wise to pull the engine/trans, replace the broken parts but that project will end the cruising season before it even started
the ONLY way to still enjoy driving the last part of the season is do all the work myself but hell I am not really a handy man. Dayum!

ps: the body work is 80% done all rot is out and needs some touching up and a color paint.
time to move to the next level.
Maybe with help of some tech board members I could still enjoy driving her. Seems like I will be hanging out here for a while

[Chatt69chgr]

I assume by engine bracket you mean engine mount.  Probably the driver side where all the torque is.  Easy fix.  Schumacher has a new mount that can't fail due to it's design.  You better replace that mount or you may find the engine against the hood.  U-joints are so easy to replace a caveman could do it  (opps, isn't that a Geico line).  And they are cheap.  I don't understand what you mean about the driveshaft.  You may be able to live with the rear end and transmission issues by carefully monitoring them and parking the car if they get too bad.

[CB]

exactly, drivers side insulator is ripped. So the engine needs to be removed to replace all four..

[firefighter3931]

CB, before you replace the insulater have a look at this thread. 

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,13216.0.html


Ron

[CB]

CB, before you replace the insulater have a look at this thread. 

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,13216.0.html


Ron

thanks a lot for the link Ron!
ok this trick could safe me a couple of hundred $ only on parts already (remeber S/H to Belgium and taxes adding to a $120 Schumacher kit)
But I still gonna have to pull the engine, right? 
CB

[Runner]

 pulling the engine is not needed.    do one mount at a time and unbolt it, slide a floor jack under the pan with a piece of wood and jack it up until you can pull it out replace the mount and reistall.   
 

     i replaced the drivers side motor mount on my roadrunner at the race track in the grass after the second round of dials,  had the car in the staging lanes ready to run in plenty of time for eleminations. i would have made the 3 round of dials also but my wife ran into some trouble getting back to the track with the mount.    a guy hit the rail road crossing and the train stoped in the middle of the road. i had to run about a half a mile down the road so my wife could throw the mount beteen 2 train enginess for me, then run back to the track and install it  lol.   then i lost in the forst round      the train engineer wasnt very pleased with us   

[firefighter3931]

CB, Like Runner said....you don't really need to pull the engine to change out the mount. I would pull it anyway and install fresh gaskets on the engine while you have it out and maybe clean it up and throw some paint on it.  While the engine is out you can install the new front pump seal on the transmission. 


Ron

[ChargerSG]

I wouldent pull it, you can do the necessary without pulling and then in the autumn pull it, if you done the Bodywork for it the engine deserve the same treatment

[CB]

time for new mounts, the engine came up that much it rubbed the belt

[is_it_EVER_done?]

Pull the engine? only if you feel a need (other repairs/changes). You could have changed the mount in less time than it took to post the question and your responses to this thread!

Fix it and drive it! No need to create a mountain out of a molehill. Check the other mounts (Pass side, and trans mount), and replace them if necessary at the same time.

[89MOPAR]

 If you replace the u-joints , you should have the balance checked on your driveshaft first, and fixed if wrong.
Most driveshaft ends are welded at both ends from the factory, but i'm assuming yours has been rewelded and it's obvious
Make sure not to lose any of the needle bearings inside the u-joint "cups" . The cups have a tendency to slide off easily, exposing the needles.
Buy the best you can afford, whether it be u-joint or whatever, all the more important if you are importing parts and incur that extra expense.
Better to pay more the first time to buy a quality part, than have to pay 2X shipping and 2X labor because you bought the "inexpensive" part first.

I don't know why some folks are so intent on saving a $.  I have a buddy who just recently wanted me to find him a used motor mount for his 340 clone cuda.[?] why ?
  I refused and told him to pay up and buy a new mount or the Schumaker piece. Well we haven't talked in awhile - but damned if I was going to spend a Saturday afternoon changing out a junk part with another junk part.
    This the same guy who would buy the cheap blackjack brand headers that fit badly and scraped the ground so they were worn, warped,+ leaky in a couple of years. Then replace them with another set of the same sh*tty headers.  " but I saved $100", he would say....
After helping him change two sets of headers I had had enough.

[tecmopar]

Same as above, there is no need to remove the motor to replace all 3 mounts. The Trans mount is really easy, the other 2 are a little more tricky but can be done with a decent set of mechanics tools, a floor jack and a pair of jack stands. A long time ago I remember changing them with a scissor jack and basic tools, good luck.

[CB]

Thanks guys for your advises. Appreciate it.

You wonder why I talk about money?
I asked my shop to change the mounts, rebuild the trans and fix the joint, he said around $1200.
Serious, is replacing a mount and pulling/installing a trans that difficult I have to pay others to do it?
Maybe it is...
Conclusion: I need a frontend rebuild (already got the kit), adding discs ($1K), new mounts ($132) and a trans rebuild ($500; same shop) with a propper driveshaft assembly ($??) to get me going.   

[Runner]

the belt that rubs on the water pump pulley is pretty comon on our cars.   it will happen evn with new mounts

[Runner]

  I don't know why some folks are so intent on saving a $. 

      because im still waiting for my money tree to blossom.     what some people consider cheap and inexpensive,  may be weeks or even monthes of extra money to someone else.

   i have a 12 year old set of headman headers on my 68 plymouth that i was thrilled when i had enough cash to buy. they have been on 2 different cars and to this day they seal great.   

[CB]

the belt that rubs on the water pump pulley is pretty comon on our cars.   it will happen evn with new mounts

ok, thanks for telling me that , I got a bit scared when I noticed it.
And I think we got the same blossom free tree, Runner

[89MOPAR]

Runner - I understand saving a buck at times but not when it costs $2 in the long run, and many more hours of aggravation and downtime for a car.

  Hopefully you have tended your money tree well enough in 12 years that you could afford a new set of headers if you needed them

  Trees blossom better with care ---rather than waiting for tasty fruit and good weather.

I don't think $1200 is out of line for what the mechanic is being asked to do.
Will have to pull and re-install tranny to re-build. Parts costs. Shop labor at $60+ an hour, etc.

With the help you get here, and maybe a buddy to help w/ the car,CB, you could change the mounts, replace the U-joint yourselves,
maybe change the disks if you want to try.  I would not attempt the tranny rebuild or front end rebuild yoursellf , for the first time.
Special tools and knowledge needed.   Unfortunately the mechanic has to pay for his nice 4 post lift , shop rent,payroll taxes, tools, etc
If you don't have one try to find an old factory service manual for your charger, reprint, or Chiltons / Haynes type manual.
It will be money well spent in the long run.