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Stripped lug nut removal (HELP!)

Started by Harlow, February 15, 2007, 02:58:28 PM

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Harlow

This is driving me crazy, ALL the lug nuts on the two front wheels on my car are stripped. The guy I bought it from must have been trying to get them off with no luck. So what is the next step? The wheels are off an 80's bronco and are 3/4. The stripped nut removal kits don't make a socket to fit this size. What do I do?

68 RT

If they are that tight and stripped the best way would be splitting the nut. Either with a chisel or if a nut splitter will fit, that would be easier. Could try heating them and using vise grips too.I found splitting them usally works best.

4cruzin

Probably the same way they get those safety nuts off when you lose the special key.  Weld another to the top that you have a socket for and use it to remove the striped one.   :yesnod:
Tomorrow is promised to NOBODY . . . .

tan top

Quote from: 4cruzin on February 15, 2007, 04:56:22 PM
Probably the same way they get those safety nuts off when you lose the special key. Weld another to the top that you have a socket for and use it to remove the striped one. :yesnod:

   :iagree:  or try  bashing an old  1/2" socket that is just slightly smaller , i have had good success  using a 12 point one . another is to carefully grind  or chisel  away the nut  , if you are planing to re use the wheel & stud you need to be accurate .
Feel free to post any relevant picture you think we all might like to see in the threads below!

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whitehatspecial

Quote from: Harlow on February 15, 2007, 02:58:28 PM
This is driving me crazy, ALL the lug nuts on the two front wheels on my car are stripped. The guy I bought it from must have been trying to get them off with no luck. So what is the next step? The wheels are off an 80's bronco and are 3/4. The stripped nut removal kits don't make a socket to fit this size. What do I do?

He (the guy you bought it from) probably didn't know the left side nuts are reverse thread. I vote for the nut splitting method with a nut splitter first then a chisel as a last resort.
Cars owned:
1968 Dodge Charger, 48k orig. miles, family owned since new.
Not a Hemi, a mini-hemi 340.

HITMAN 149

don't listen to everyone else..... they don't know what they are talkin about!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  :rotz:
the car is totally worthless with some striped lugs!!!!!!!!! just send me the car!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :yesnod:
mua-hahahahaha :devil:
68 Charger R/T, SOLD =/ sniffle sniffle
01 BMW 740i SPORT  
01 Hot Rod Harley Dresser, SOLD =/ =/

tan top

Quote from: hobobum149 on February 16, 2007, 12:10:59 PM
don't listen to everyone else..... they don't know what they are talkin about!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  :rotz:
the car is totally worthless with some striped lugs!!!!!!!!! just send me the car!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :yesnod:
mua-hahahahaha :devil:
             :haha: :haha:                   just a thought   you no the drivers side lug nuts  are supposed to be   a L/H thread 
         
                thats not to say some one has  accidentally swapped the drums  side to side  before  the guy you bought it of off , hence both sides have the lug nuts rounded off  :-\
Feel free to post any relevant picture you think we all might like to see in the threads below!

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Chargers in the background where you least expect them 
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C500 & Daytonas & Superbirds
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,95432.0.html
Interesting pictures & Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,109484.925.html
Old Dodge dealer photos wanted
 http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,120850.0.html

Harlow

o.k. I found out what the last owner did. He took the original wheels off and replaced them with the bronco wheels but kept the original studs and and lug nuts and used them. The bronco wheel should have a bolt that is screwed in from the top NOT the way they are set up right now. No matter what I do the lug nuts are not budging and they are starting to turn into hamburger. I marked the lug nuts and the wheel and they have not moved AT ALL. So my question is, can I remove the wheel from the car with the drum still on it, so I can work on it on my bench in stead of sitting on the cold garage floor?

- Scott

P.S. This is a '68 sport satellite with manual drums if that makes a difference...

tan top

yes   fronts only,   depends on the style of wheel but the cotter pin could be difficult to remove .just be care full when you pull the wheel  & drum off ,it doesn't drop and damage the thread on the spindle  as that is going to be pretty heavy . figure on plugging the holes so the wheel bearings don't get contaminated with metal filings / dirt etc . if it were me when finished ,i would dismantle ,clean all the old grease out & bearings with paint thinner , re pack with the correct grease & fit a new inner grease seals .
Feel free to post any relevant picture you think we all might like to see in the threads below!

Charger Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,86777.0.html
Chargers in the background where you least expect them 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,97261.0.html
C500 & Daytonas & Superbirds
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,95432.0.html
Interesting pictures & Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,109484.925.html
Old Dodge dealer photos wanted
 http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,120850.0.html

Harlow

How do I get the whole thing off? Isn't there some kind of bolt under the hubcap?

Chatt69chgr

You just take the hubcap off and remove the grease cap from the hub.  You can usually get this off with a crescent wrench.  Then remove the cotter key in the spindle and back off and remove the spindle nut.  Then carefully remove the wheel and hub assembly being careful to not let the washer and bearing drop onto the floor.  Put a towel down to catch them.  Also be careful when taking the wheel assembly off to not damage the spindle threads as has been mentioned.  You may have trouble with the brake shoes catching on the edge of the drum if there is a groove worn there.  You will have to back off the self adjuster if that is the case.

tan top

Quote from: Chatt69chgr on February 16, 2007, 08:42:07 PM
You just take the hubcap off and remove the grease cap from the hub.  You can usually get this off with a crescent wrench.  Then remove the cotter key in the spindle and back off and remove the spindle nut.  Then carefully remove the wheel and hub assembly being careful to not let the washer and bearing drop onto the floor.  Put a towel down to catch them.  Also be careful when taking the wheel assembly off to not damage the spindle threads as has been mentioned.  You may have trouble with the brake shoes catching on the edge of the drum if there is a groove worn there.  You will have to back off the self adjuster if that is the case.

          :yesnod: :iagree:
Feel free to post any relevant picture you think we all might like to see in the threads below!

Charger Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,86777.0.html
Chargers in the background where you least expect them 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,97261.0.html
C500 & Daytonas & Superbirds
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,95432.0.html
Interesting pictures & Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,109484.925.html
Old Dodge dealer photos wanted
 http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,120850.0.html

Harlow

Thanks for the quick replies guys :2thumbs: I'll let you know how it goes.

Harlow

Got them off without any trouble. Thanks :thumbs: