I'm using the 318 - Opinions?

[RogerDodger]

My budget is telling me to wait on a big block and use the 318 that came out of my 74. It ran quite well when I took it out 18 months ago. I believe it has about 110,000 miles and is the original motor. It did smoke when first starting it up so I'm thinking new valve seals. No big deal. Also I noticed the freeze plugs need to be replaced. I was doing a compression test and I have 165 and 160 on the first two cylinders and then my compression tester went bad. I don't know what the specs are for a 74 318 but I would guess that is good if they are all consistant. I guess I'll try to get a new compression tester and confirm. I don't want to put a lot of money into this motor because my goal in a couple of years would be a big block, tranny and rear end. Thats just more than I can do right now. Any thoughts guys? Am I crazy to use this motor with 110,000 miles on it? Is there anything else I should be considering? 

[Charger-Bodie]

if the compression is fairly close on all 8 and its good id run with it for now just replace the frost plugs gaskets ect and run it

[ChargerSG]

 

[69bronzeT5]

I had a 318 that had 100 something k's on it. I got rid of it and bought an old 68 4 dr Chrysler Newport for $500 and took the 383 out of it along with tons of other parts.

[Daytona R/T SE]

Timing chain and gear,freeze plugs,valve guide seals,oil pan and valve cover gaskets,clean it up real good,paint it and drop it in. Should be able to do all of this for $100 bucks or so....

[RogerDodger]

I had a 318 that had 100 something k's on it. I got rid of it and bought an old 68 4 dr Chrysler Newport for $500 and took the 383 out of it along with tons of other parts.

I have been looking for an old Chrysler. I would like to find one locally. Anyway that will be a couple of years down the road. For now I'll put the 318 in and start logging some miles this summer (I hope).

[RogerDodger]

Timing chain and gear,freeze plugs,valve guide seals,oil pan and valve cover gaskets,clean it up real good,paint it and drop it in. Should be able to do all of this for $100 bucks or so....

Your thinking like I am. I went last night and picked up all the above and a water pump. $150.

[Daytona R/T SE]

Timing chain and gear,freeze plugs,valve guide seals,oil pan and valve cover gaskets,clean it up real good,paint it and drop it in. Should be able to do all of this for $100 bucks or so....

Your thinking like I am. I went last night and picked up all the above and a water pump. $150.

318's are literally bullet proof. A well tuned one will give decent power and economy. Should last you a long time.

[Nacho-RT74]

318 is a GREAT engine... I know is not a 440, but is really great. You can add a nice 340 intake and will get some nice extra power.

[RogerDodger]

Should I replace the rear main seal while I'm doing all this? I already have the pan off. How much more work is it to change the rear seal? I did one a long time ago on a Chevy. I think I took off the rear main and pushed it out with a small wood block. Actually I may have had to loosen all the mains if I remeber right. I hate to miss something at this point. I have enough oil spots on the driveway from my children.

[Chryco Psycho]

I f you have the oil pan off it is no big deal to do the rear seal , I would check a few brgs too , #2 main & 5/6 rod , you may have to loosen all the mains & lift the crank slightly to change the seal

[RogerDodger]

I got the rear seal changed. It was pretty easy. When I check the bearings am I just doing a visual check or do I need to get some plastigauge and torque them back on? The rear main looked good when I had it off.

[Polygon]

Timing chain and gear,freeze plugs,valve guide seals,oil pan and valve cover gaskets,clean it up real good,paint it and drop it in. Should be able to do all of this for $100 bucks or so....


Your thinking like I am. I went last night and picked up all the above and a water pump. $150.

Thats' it. At 130,000 my chain went poof and bent some valves.I would put in BRONZE valve guides, never gave me any problems....

[RogerDodger]

I f you have the oil pan off it is no big deal to do the rear seal , I would check a few brgs too , #2 main & 5/6 rod , you may have to loosen all the mains & lift the crank slightly to change the seal

Here is a picture of #2 main and #5 & #6 rod bearings. I'm not sure what to look for. The rod bearings show some discoloration.

If these bearings are showing wear then it looks like I should be doing a total rebuild.

[The70RT]

They look kinda scarry. I would plasti-guage them. It looks like they are into the second layer.....kind hard to tell from the size of the pics. Did you get a new oil pump and clean out the sump?

[RogerDodger]

It is hard to see in the picture. Some spots are new looking while others look stained. 70RT - You mentioned layers. I was wondering if it had worn through a surface layer or if it was just stained.

I did clean out the sump. No new oil pump.

[The70RT]

I never seen a stained bearing. Now a scorched or oil starved bearing may change colors. Plasi-gage them to be sure.