News:

It appears that the upgrade forces a login and many, many of you have forgotten your passwords and didn't set up any reminders. Contact me directly through helpmelogin@dodgecharger.com and I'll help sort it out.

Main Menu

Front windows both hard to crank up and down

Started by whitehatspecial, October 11, 2006, 07:05:21 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

whitehatspecial

I have had a problem with both the front windows being difficult to crank up or down. This car has been in the family since new (48k miles) and as long as I can remember this was an issue. Both crank knobs have worn and fell off due to the problem.
Car has never been apart and the rear windows are fine.
Any ideas what the problem could be or has anyone had a similar problem?
Cars owned:
1968 Dodge Charger, 48k orig. miles, family owned since new.
Not a Hemi, a mini-hemi 340.

daytonalo

When I worked at the glass shop we used silicone spray on the window channels

terrible one


Try taking the door panels off and cleaning the rails up real nice, then lubricating them with something.

Winged 1

 ;D
When these rigs came from the factory they put a small amount of grease on the moving parts insides of the doors. I would guess the grease is gone or dried up and usless. Plan on a full day to pull the door panels and go thru all the moving parts with a high grade of grease. Give a spin before putting it all back and I would guess you will notice a big diff. in both. Replace the plastic cover. Its cheap and yours is old and probley brittle at this point. While the covers are off you can also see if something has jumped its track or wore flat spots in your rollers.
Best of luck..
Eric

JimShine

I used white lithium grease on mine and it really helped.

Ghoste

If it's been doing it since day one, it might not also hurt to check all of the adjustments.  It may not have ever been done properly at the factory.

whitehatspecial

Quote from: Ghoste on October 12, 2006, 04:14:33 AM
If it's been doing it since day one, it might not also hurt to check all of the adjustments.  It may not have ever been done properly at the factory.

Can you be more specific as to the adjustments?
Cars owned:
1968 Dodge Charger, 48k orig. miles, family owned since new.
Not a Hemi, a mini-hemi 340.

Charger_Fan

I'll also add to the 'needs lube' theories. My back windows were really hard to crank when I first got my car. I got in there & replaced worn bushings & lubed everything really well...now it works like new. :icon_smile_approve:

The Aquamax...yes, this bike spent 2 nights underwater one weekend. (Not my doing), but it gained the name, and has since become pseudo-famous. :)

RogerDodger

You should use white lithium grease. It will stay soft over time.

resq302

I redid my mechanisms due to the windows going up and down really hard also.  I replaced all the rollers in the rear windows and they seem to work better now.  However, the front ones even after lubing up all the pivot areas and it still goes up and down fairly tight.  Might just be the way it was designed. :shruggy:
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

Ghoste

Here is the fsm adjustment procedure for the glass if it is still binding after lubing the mechanism.

nitrometal

I've had this problem also but with additional odd thing I've noticed.

When I'm sitting in the drivers seat & door closed it can be very difficult to roll up or down.
Open the door and it moves smooth as glass (pun intended).

Does that make any sense?  Is it binding somehow when it's latched?
I love the smell of nitro in the morning.

http://pettysuperbird.com

resq302

I think it has to do with the rubber felt seal that seals the front window to the rear window.  If you open the door, the only thing not in the equasion is that contact.  Mine is still tight but if it is not that way, you can see light coming in around the gasket.  Light coming in means water  can come in.  Water coming in eventually leads to no floor boards.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

nitrometal

Quote from: resq302 on October 21, 2006, 02:50:01 PM
I think it has to do with the rubber felt seal that seals the front window to the rear window.  If you open the door, the only thing not in the equasion is that contact.  Mine is still tight but if it is not that way, you can see light coming in around the gasket.  Light coming in means water  can come in.  Water coming in eventually leads to no floor boards.

I didn't even think of that spot. That's a good place to check.  Thanks Resq302!  :thumbs:
I love the smell of nitro in the morning.

http://pettysuperbird.com

Nacho-RT74

Quote from: Ghoste on October 17, 2006, 04:53:57 PM
Here is the fsm adjustment procedure for the glass if it is still binding after lubing the mechanism.

hey... do you have that guide to cars without vent window ? (3rd gen)
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

resq302

Quote from: nitrometal on October 22, 2006, 11:43:21 AM
Quote from: resq302 on October 21, 2006, 02:50:01 PM
I think it has to do with the rubber felt seal that seals the front window to the rear window.  If you open the door, the only thing not in the equasion is that contact.  Mine is still tight but if it is not that way, you can see light coming in around the gasket.  Light coming in means water  can come in.  Water coming in eventually leads to no floor boards.

I didn't even think of that spot. That's a good place to check.  Thanks Resq302!  :thumbs:

I was the same way when I rebuild my windows and rollers over last winter.  It worked nice and smooth but once the door was closed, it got tight.  No matter what I did, it was tight.  If you roll the rear window down just a little so the front window is not in contact with it and you try rolling down the front window, you should see it roll down nice and smooth like new.  I've always wondered why Mopar put the gasket on the front window as opposed to the rear 1/4 glass like GM did.  On our 71 GS convertible, we never had a problem rolling down the front windows, possibly cause the seal was on the front of the rear window.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

Ghoste

Sorry Nacho, I have fsm's for 66 through 70 but no 71.  It's on my "to buy" list.

BigBlockSam

I won't be wronged, I wont be Insulted and I wont be laid a hand on. I don't do these things to others, and I require the same from them.

  [IMG]http://i45.tinypic.com/347b5v5.jpg[/img