Some considerations about the charging and wiring upgrade and your worries about

[b5blue]

  The issue is stock wiring is designed to only replace battery power lost from starting the engine. All power is supplied from alt. output. If you have not upgraded the alt. output you can't power an amp.
https://www.bcae1.com/

[misty440]

Great read B5! Reviewing the wire gauge section was scaring thinking what could easily happen if things are not setup correctly. I did the Ammeter bypass and ran a heavier gauge wire directly off of the amp to the battery, headlight switch bypass. I have not yet upgraded my alternator though. I am thinking the alt from quality power that puts out 110 amps. To avoid catastrophic meltdown would I power a stereo amplifier directly off of the alt? or directly off of the battery?

[b5blue]

I'm using a Denso 120amp bought years ago. The most important aspect is idle output amps. My Denso can output about 60, just enough. I'm considering this unit:  https://www.qualitypowerauto.com/pages/ChryslerMegaAmp.php

[John_Kunkel]

I read that I should not take power directly from the battery,

Did the source say why? "Directly" can be misinterpreted i.e. as not placing a fuse in the power wire...otherwise the battery is the source you want. As for wire size, follow the amp maker's recommendation.

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-p3hJJObqFFE/learn/learningcenter/car/amplifier_installation_guide.html

[misty440]

I think it was in this thread that I read that it was not a good idea to power a amplifier directly from the battery but I am not sure? I will look at the amp power wire suggested size to verify but I think it was 8awg. John say that I should not fuse this power wire  if it is directly connected tot he battery? I thought that I should always fuse the power wire about 6" from the source? So would it be safe to say that upgrading the alt to a higher idle output alt is necessary if I am going to run a amplifier and probably a electric radiator fan on a delay timer? If I source isolated power for these accessories will the original wire harness still be safe from meltdown?

[b5blue]

Fuse all, every time, at the correct load rating.  Some have modified systems, still big loads should draw from ALT. output source.

[misty440]

misread your post john, yes I understand what you wrote now after thinking about it some more, could be what the writer meant that the power wire should be fused! So other than upgrading to a higher alt output at idle and using direct power from the battery fused of course the stock wiring system should not be affected negatively? I already did the ammeter bypass amd headight relay upgrade. B5, are you looking at the highest output alt from Quality Power? If so there are measurements you need to take to see if it will fit, the highest output will not fit on my 440 due to valve cover clearance.
Thank you everyone for your feedback as always very much appreciated!
Chris

[misty440]

B5blue, you said to power big loads off of the alt output right? So with the ammeter bypass and the larger wire feeding directly from the alt to the battery, would you recommend a power bus off of the  positive battery and take power for aux fans, amp etc. from there? thinking I want hide the bus underneath my battery tray and fuse there or install relays under there as needed to keep the engine bay clean looking and not having a bunch of wires coming off of the battery terminal stud.
Thanks
Chris

[b5blue]

  No I actually have an 8 gauge wire to a small fuse panel off ALT. output that runs on parallel to sister my factory harness feed to the back of my ALT gauge. The extra fuse panel feeds 40amp relays for A/C, Ignition and the electric fan in front of my condenser.
  Unless you modify to a charging system that directly feeds the battery like the old GM cars, stop thinking "Battery for power" Mopar spec calls it a "Starting Battery" and that is all it does.
  My Pioneer "Supertuner" puts out 10 watts per channel and I've matched speaker impedance and speaker wire per BACE. I can't imagine needing more volume but to each their own. A vintage stock ALT. has no hope of feeding ignition/lights/wipers and a blower all at once much less another 60 amps for fan/amp.
   I recall sitting at a stoplight, at night, in the rain watching my ALT gauge see saw back and forth while I revved my 440 to up amp output as my lights dimmed and wipers slowed down.
   My relays shed the load keeping it out of my cabin, the original harness signals just turn big loads on and off. I don't need relays for headlights and wipers because there is plenty of power in the cabin. I even have a wiper delay to pulse wiper further reducing 12V demand.   

[Nacho-RT74]

The deal of this thread is explain how the stock system works and how to run it safe with some upgrades, which demands not to run added acc from batt WITH AMMETER still in use. Otherwise we get several other options if you don't want to keep the ammeter still on the line in working order.

Unfortunately the diagrams are not visible yet untill the new forum setup will recover the files. I can uploaded again thought since the original diagrams I made are still on my PC.

[AKcharger]

Nacho did you reload your original diagrams from 2007?? I can't see them?

[Nacho-RT74]

Not yet... i was expecting they could be recovered by Troy.

This weekend it seeems I'll get time to be on your deal.

[Nacho-RT74]

Hi Crowd!!! I just uploaded the missed diagrams to my image hosting service profile and attached straight on sameon replies. Didn't deleted the attachments already attached back in the days since if they float on again, pretty sure many other ppl had copied its link to post on another websites... myself included.

[AKcharger]

Woo Hoo!

[AKcharger]

Ok, so plan is to use this 2002 jeep fuse bus and move relays from 1)Dual cooling fans 2)Fuel pump 3)EFI 4)AC here and use these relays. Power feeds in on the right to fuse and then flows to relay then out to component. Stereo/AMP will feed right from input...now here's the important part, I was going to use power right off the AMP stud to power this bus. So..
- is there a consequence with taking Alt power?
- is any extra circut protection needed?
- will the amp have power with car not running? I can power stero through acc but amp/woofer are currently off batt

Suggestions appreciated

[b5blue]

What ALT. do you have? 

[AKcharger]

Some chrome plated one that looks pretty!! Not sure make or amp rating

[b5blue]

It's output at idle must = amp draw.

[AKcharger]

gotcha.

[b5blue]

Look here: https://www.qualitypowerauto.com/pages/ChryslerMegaAmp.php