Drums brake booster and disc brakes?

[COKE]

Hi,
I have  a 69 charger with manual disc brakes.It has the Viper calipesr& Cop rotors conversion with a mopar performance alum. master cilinder.
I need to install a Brake booster for a technical inspection,due  it appears like a power assisted car on the papers,and i don,t want troubles(That people is idiot!).
I have an old Mindland Ross drum brake  booster and i would like to know if it would work with this brake setup.
I suppouse that i will back to the manual set up when i get the license plates

Thanks for the help.

[Chryco Psycho]

assuming it will bolt together it should work fine , no reason to have to have a booster though 

[COKE]

It will fit using the 4 to 2 bolts adapter plate.
I was doubting because the disk brake cars had a bigger booster with double diaphragm.

[squeakfinder]

My 68 had power drum brakes. I swapped in 75 Dart Disc brakes and bought a remand brake booster for the drum bake Charger. I'm real happy with the way the car stops.

[COKE]

Well,i have installed it but i think it does not work.I still haven,t checked the pressures,but it doesn,t seem to work.
Maybe the booster is not in good shape.
It has a freeplay with that spongie noise and then the pedal is hard like a rock.
I,m thinking the booster has a leak and when it meets the resistance from the master clilinder it leaves  to go the  vacuum  without movement of the diaphragm.

What kind of booster could i find for  a two bolts MC and able to fit in the 69 b-body?
I was  thinking on a 70´s from a van or truck...

[squeakfinder]

If you have to step on the pedal hard to get it to slow down and stop, its probably the booster. Also, sometimes you can hear a vacuum leak inside the cab of the vehicle if there bad.

[COKE]

It has a leak cause i have connected an electric vacuum pump and it is working all the time,even without steping on the pedal.
The pump is automatic and it stops when it gets 18" -21" vacuum,and does not start until you use the brake a couple of times,so it is leaking.

it doesn,t work anyway.I get the same pressure and pedal feel with vacuum or without it.
I need another booster,but i do not have idea what to choose.Don,t want to spend a lot of money on one of these from SSB or Master power brakes.

[mopar1968]

It has a leak cause i have connected an electric vacuum pump and it is working all the time,even without steping on the pedal.
The pump is automatic and it stops when it gets 18" -21" vacuum,and does not start until you use the brake a couple of times,so it is leaking.

it doesn,t work anyway.I get the same pressure and pedal feel with vacuum or without it.
I need another booster,but i do not have idea what to choose.Don,t want to spend a lot of money on one of these from SSB or Master power brakes.

Have you made any progress on your problem??  I'm experiencing something very similar, but my booster has been rebuilt.

[bull]

It doesn't sound like it matters if the booster works or not. Your govt. says the car has to have a booster for the inspection but does it say it has to work? Bolt it on for the inspection and take it back off when they're done. The brakes will work if they press the pedal won't they?

[COKE]

Bull,
It is a long history:
I,m registering the car like historic vehicle(I believe in the States also are cars registered with historic license plates).This requires a vehicle technical inspection.
I removed the booster that it had (Another drum brake booster)casuse it didn,t wok.Also because the lack of vacumm at idle(Big cam)
In the papers says that the car is a power brake car.The tecHnics are going to watch the car and i don,t want troubles ,that people has the" Perfect  Vehicle Inspector" manual and they are not able to understand nothing more.
My buddy gave to me another brake booster(Midland ross) but it   doesn,t work.

Well,in the technical inspection they are going to check the car with a brake meter machine,and the car is not going to give enough brake values if the booster does not work properly so i really don,t know what to do.
I,m doubting between to buy other booster or install the manual set up again and put  some false  tubes and hoses around it and say to them that  it has an "Hidra- boost"

[8WHEELER]

I would put in the dual diaphragm Bendix Booster, much better booster. Evan the booster rebuild shops
don't care for the Midland Ross units. I have gone through 3 Midland Ross boosters in the last 7yrs.

Dan

[COKE]

Yes, i was planing to get one of those rebuilt bendix boosters.
There is not easy to find aftermarket boosters for the mopar cars for a reasonable price,so i think it is going to be the best option.
What about a Double diaphragm booster from a 78´ Monaco or Fury?

[8WHEELER]

I am pretty sure the stud/bolt pattern is not the same through the firewall, but measure it if
you can. I have seen some non stock boosters on these cars, but you have to make sure the rod length
under the dash is the same as well, I think that will also be a problem.

Dan

[blue69]

The bendix dual diaphragm booster was supposed to be released last month with a price of around $130. Check out http://www.mbmbrakeboosters.com/mopar.html

[8WHEELER]

Thats a good price with no core, I will call them on Monday   

Dan

[COKE]

Yes,i have seen this page in my booster searches,but is this reproduction or rebuild?
Wil it have enough quality?
However,there is a thing that i,m not able to understand:
Why some people   pay $300 on Ebay for an old "Good working " booster while a rebuild one(Or new like these) with all the guaranties does cost $150?