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PLEASE help with adjusting kickdown - searched the forum and still confused?!?

Started by Corellian Corvette, July 08, 2006, 12:03:02 AM

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Corellian Corvette

Hey everyone. I'm trying to figure out how to get my 68 back into some semblance of working order. It's a 68 w/ 383 4bbl and auto. Not sure if it's an original 4bbl car or not.

Clearly, my transmission is acting funny and taking one look at the throttle/kickdown linkage appears to be the culprit. It's screwey at best.

First, the PO replaced the stock carb with an Edelbrock. He "bubba'd" the linkage, but by placing a long machine screw through the throttle hole, I'm able to create something that looks similar to the original rod.

At any rate, I tried adjusting everything per the service manual, but I still can't figure out how it all works. When I'm all done everything just sort of rests in the middle.

Can someone please explain what exactly is supposed to be happening with the rods and the linkage? That might help me figure out what's going wrong. I'm just not sure what's supposed to be going on.

First, what position should the kickdown lever on the transmission be in at rest and at WOT? Should it be "forward" at rest, or "rearward"? Does it get "pushed" or "pulled" to the kickdown position?

When the carb is at idle, where should the kickdown rod be resting? Should the throttle rod be resting against the BACK of the slider, or the front?

If someone can take me through the actions that should be happening between the carb, rod, and kickdown linkage, that might help me get it setup.

And a picture of a correctly setup system would be super helpful.

Thanks!

John_Kunkel

First off, if you have an Edelbrock carb you need the special Mopar throttle lever extension, their P/N is 1481. If the linkage was originally from a 2-barrel it will be necessary to extend the top rod to reach the carb stud.

With the carb at warm idle and the trans lever full forward, adjust the top rod so that the rear of the slot rests against the back side of the throttle stud. Be sure there is a spring to pull the linkage forward. The linkage should start to move rearward as soon as the throttle is opened, no lost motion.

From the initial setting, the linkage can be adjusted to tune the part throttle upshift points to suit the individual. If the trans will kickdown at WOT from top gear at around 40 mph, the adjustment is OK.
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

Mefirst

Or take the easy way out from the predicament and install a manual valvebody into the 727...


mikepmcs

this is what it should look like at rest. courtesy of firefighter(ron).  also check out this thread.
pay no attention to my b@$tard set-up. :icon_smile_big:
you probably have a 2bbl throttle linkage as well so that's why i have that screw in the back cause the rod is too short when screwed out.

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,9634.msg174809.html#msg174809
Life isn't Father Knows Best anymore, it's a kick in the face on a saturday night with a steel toed grip kodiak work boot and a trip to the hospital all bloodied and bashed.....for reconstructive surgery. But, what doesn't kill us, makes us stronger, right?