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now a normal 69 or later an RT

Started by Marcl Ka, July 27, 2021, 03:24:49 PM

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Marcl Ka

Hi Guys,

Unfortunately, I sold my 70 charger a few years ago. Now I miss my charger every year and I've finally decided to buy one again.

Option 1: I would like to have a 69 RT but at the moment the RTs are extremely expensive.
I could get a normal 69 matching numbers with "only" the 383 (completely derusted, repainted the way I want it and completely rebuilt) for exactly my budget. So get in and drive off. However, I would not get it until the beginning of next year because it is still being built.
I think the RT symbol and the RT stripe are so cool, but attaching this to a non-RT is not the right thing to do. But in the end there is only a symbol.

Option 2: Or should I buy a NOT Matching Numbers RT (my budget doesn't give more) that has some rust etc. and then build it up piece by piece.

Option 3: I will save "only" another 3 years in the hope that the RTs will not be more expensive and then I will buy an RT Matching Numbers that has already been restored.

My problem is that I don't have a lot of space in the garage and so the bodywork would take a while because the car always has to go out.

My goal is to finally have my dream car in the garage again and that it is stable in value, even if I don't plan to sell it again.

The question is maybe stupid but I fluctuate between, I buy a normal one now or I save a few years my money for an RT but it can then be that they are even more expensive by then.


Which would you choose?

70 sublime

You could buy a nice normal one now that you can drive and keep saving your extra money to buy a numbers match R/T later on down the road
If Chargers are more expensive in the future you still have a nice one to sell so you can trade up to the car you want and still have fun driving now
next project 70 Charger FJ5 green

Lennard

My advice is option 2, and build it the way you want.  It's also what I'm doing with my '69 R/Tse.

b5blue

Just go buy what you can find now and stop farting around. Wheel time is real time.  :2thumbs:

tan top

 2 , buy the straightest ,   rot / rust  free ,  un messed with charger you can find no mater what model or engine ! or even just a empty body shell with a vin & build it how you want  :yesnod:   
Feel free to post any relevant picture you think we all might like to see in the threads below!

Charger Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,86777.0.html
Chargers in the background where you least expect them 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,97261.0.html
C500 & Daytonas & Superbirds
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,95432.0.html
Interesting pictures & Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,109484.925.html
Old Dodge dealer photos wanted
 http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,120850.0.html

Kern Dog

Tan Top is right.
Who cares if it is an R/T or not? Many times, people equip their cars with stuff that surpasses what Dodge used to make the R/T model. Bigger engine, better brakes, stiffer suspension, A/C with a manual trans, etc. Why quibble over a specific model? ALL Chargers are selling for crazy-silly money so any one that you buy should be worth plenty later on if/when you want to sell.
Me? I'm not selling.
I bought my second '70 in September 2019. I thought about just getting it running and then selling it but then what? The $20,000 or so I'd make isn't that important to me right now. It's not as if I need it to pay rent or to get hair replacement. The car is worth more to me than the money.


OzCharger69

I was in that same pickle last year and I finally bought a very well restored 69 charger non-matching numbers 383/727.

Being a non-matching car I can do whatever I like - power windows, AC, big motor, 5 speed box. Dakota gauges. Best decision I've ever made.

Challenger340

It all depends what you can afford within your budget ?
The reason 'real' R/T's are so expensive is the desirability/rarity/collectability in value retention, and imo, that factor will always be there ?
but of course within that collectible/rare segment there is also always a myriad of other factors like Numbers Matching, Documentation/Provenance, etc., etc.
and,
let's also not forget 'real' R/T's handle somewhat differently with their heavier S15 suspensions Vrs their 383/318 brethren..... and tend not to 'float around' as bad at highway speeds ? The term "a ride on a drunken elephant" nowhere as pronounced.

imo, at this point in time...
buy the best Charger you can within your budget.... with special emphasis in my books on as rust free/solid body condition as you can ?
because I believe restoration costs are going to become prohibitively expense(even moreso than they are now), let be for a moment Engine rebuilding which may become almost impossible in future ? (NO parts availability)
Only wimps wear Bowties !

Kern Dog

S15 suspension.....Pffft!
99% of people that rebuild an engine will increase compression, use a bigger cam or aftermarket fuel system. Why would the same people rebuild the suspension to stock specs?
.92 torsion bars?   :smilielol: 6 inch wide 14 inch tires?  :smilielol:
No.
The S15 package may have been marginal in 1969 but is way too mild for today's driver.
Don't get hung up with "prestige" models. If the car is going to be restored, everything gets improved or changed anyway.

Challenger340

Quote from: Kern Dog on July 30, 2021, 05:25:47 PM
S15 suspension.....Pffft!
99% of people that rebuild an engine will increase compression, use a bigger cam or aftermarket fuel system. Why would the same people rebuild the suspension to stock specs?
.92 torsion bars?   :smilielol: 6 inch wide 14 inch tires?  :smilielol:
No.
The S15 package may have been marginal in 1969 but is way too mild for today's driver.
Don't get hung up with "prestige" models. If the car is going to be restored, everything gets improved or changed anyway.


I think you missed my point entirely ?
I was only comparing the R/T S15 suspension handling characteristics..... Vrs the stock 383/318 Cars ?
which imo,
there exists a substantial difference at Highway speeds the S15 equipped being quite a bit firmer, and in my experience, especially above 70 mph when passing  ?


As far as the S15 Pkg being "way too mild" for todays driver.... then I guess ALL Charger's would be far too mild under whatever subjective criterion "Today's Driver" falls under ?....  most are just worse than others(NON R/T S15)
remember here...
IMO, I don't believe any of these 50 year old B-Body's are ever going to be any raving hell 'handling' wise on a course without a ton of very substantial unibody stiffening and $$ suspension upgrades ?
That said....
'some' may handle just fine for their owners intended application ?   the S15 Pkg may hold some considerations for the OP in his quest ?
Only wimps wear Bowties !

Kern Dog

I agree with most of that. I see and read people say how they like certain models more because of the standard equipment they had when new. I can appreciate a stock car but also see them as a blank canvas to modify and improve.

b5blue

 Not all of us want to be all street racer. B Body cars are great all round cars. Mine is and has been in service for most of the 26 years I have had it. (As a car not a racer.)

Marcl Ka

Thank you very much for the advice. :cheers:
I think I'll get a restored good normal now. Save money on the side and if in e.g. 5 years I have saved up something, I can sell the normal one and get an RT. If the RTs are too expensive then I don't care because I still have my normal one and continue to have fun with them. I just use the time as driving time and if it doesn't work with an RT it doesn't change the fun because the normal one stays with me.

70 sublime

next project 70 Charger FJ5 green