Fusible link issue?

[ray230]

I've got a new issue that I'm working through. First I'll explain what about the car then the issue.

I had a new dash, engine and headlight harness installed about 7 years ago. We removed the ammeter and put in a volt meter at that time. Since then I built a stroker and added electric fans and  FiTech with in tank pump. The fans, FiTech, and pump are all powered from the battery.I have a 100 amp alternator. Last winter I had to replace the brass distributor gear due to wear. While setting the timing there was a puff of smoke near the firewall. The engine  kept running, but after we shut it off it would not restart later. I also noticed I had no power inside the car. The Fitech dash and pump still ran. Because they power from the battery? But the pump still had to be triggered by the key on?

The odd thing is a few days later I was trying to chase down the issue and I notice the dome light was back on, and it started. I have been driving all summer, with no repeat issues, until this week. I drove 20 miles to the gas station and after filling, it started to crank, then nothing. Interior power out too. I opened the hood for a few minutes and checked everything for tightness and after the 3-4 try it fired and ran fine all the way home. Saturday I went to a show about 35 miles away. It started fine in the morning, but leaving the show it was that same as at the station. After it started, I held my breath all the way home.

The Fitech dash shows its charging at 13.4-8 volts, same as always. I have power at the relay. With the ammeter removal/bypass the alternator directly feeds the battery, and with fans, fuel pump, and FiTech  getting power from the battery, I shouldn't have a high load going through the fusible link. Visually the link looks fine, but I still think it is related. But why would the power come and go like this?

Thanks in advance for the help.

[ray230]

Anyone?

[BLK 68 R/T]

 Not the fusible link. They are either good or bad. How are the bulkhead connections?

[ray230]

Replaced with the harness and appear good. Next on the list is testing to see if the link connection is good on the inside. That would cause what I'm seeing, correct?
Thanks

[BLK 68 R/T]

Yes, a loose connection inside the bulkhead or on the dash side of the wiring would cause the issue as well.

[RT ragtop]

All xtra positive wire needs should feed off the alternator stud and not the battery! 

[ray230]

Mystery solved. The lug on the starter end of the battery power cable was loose. It was not visible, but when I took everything off to check every inch, the lug came off! On the back side of the cable next to the block I could see where it had gotten hot.  I got lucky, it could have been a burn down.

[BLK 68 R/T]

Good find.