Electric Choke Control

[Nacho-RT74]

Here in Venezuela my car was assemblied without electric choke control, however once that I bought an imported used engine, did have installed the electric choke control kind with ballast resistor solded on it. I added in to my car.

I have noticed that latelly my car is taking a little bit more time to get iddle. Checked output voltage with cold engine and I was getting around 4 Volts what makes me think or control or ballast damaged since on cold engines it should be 12 Volts and decreasing with heat . Probably the ballast more than the control.

Some of you guys know how much it should be the resistance of electric choke control ballast resistor ? I have one NOS control but is without ballast attached so I don't have anyone new to compare.

[Nacho-RT74]

Today I checked output voltage on control while I was warming and got:
4.2 volts on start moment
7.3 volts when engine got iddle ( after warming )
0 volts when arrived at home after 1 hour riding

of course I was seeing how voltage was increasing for a while engine warming.

Is right on that way ? I thought was around 12 volts at first moment and then decreasing, but... after analize I think the measurements I got are some logical.

Does somebody know ?

[Chryco Psycho]

I assume it satill has the 2 extra , 1 resistor & a round switch wired in from thje factory still ?

[Nacho-RT74]

no round... I know some laters are round stuff, but this is the original part white squared stuff with original part number to 8 cilinders 74. 3755750.

I just discovered the ones with resistor is called "double stage switch" since resistor change the voltage at two temperatures settings, for a while the "single stage switch" is the same but change voltage at only one temp setting since doesn't have the ballast resistor attached.

The NOS one that I have is PN 3656730 what is stated on www.lightningjar.com the right one to 73, but apparently 6 cilinders what is not stated on website, but on diagrams it appears single stages to 6 cilinders.

On Haynes manual doesn't appear the outup voltage, just the temp stages for both, and I don't really understand what they say there to check them, just talks about dimmimg test light while you are testing.

DAMN, WHY MANUAL DOESN'T STATE AT LEAST VOLTAGE RATES....

ATTACHED PIC... resistor is not visble since is attached at the other side of control

[Nacho-RT74]

no one ?

another question. Does somebody knows if a single stage can be converted on to a double stage control just removing resistor from one to another ? from exterior and also on diagrams it looks to be the only one difference. I mean in case the control is damaged and not the ballast

[is_it_EVER_done?]

I have no input as to what the "controll" unit you are talking about is/does, etc., but the (any) electric choke is supposed to be connected to a 12 volt switched source (only on when the ignition is on).

If you have your electric choke hooked to a resistor side (as opposed to the input voltage side) of any resistor, or other voltage source, it not only will work slowly (or other improper function), but will never open fully which causes terrible gas millage, and other drivability problems.

The electric choke should receive 12 volts anytime the key is on.

[Nacho-RT74]

Ok, all diagramas show the electric choke control on 3rd gens at least. It does have 12 volts coming from blue wire, the same that feeds the brush alt. So I have key on power.

Without that controil you will allways have electricity flow, and never will stop. With engine already warm, STILL have power there when you don't need anymore, that's the function of the control, switch off the power to choke once engine is warm.

Those controls have temp sensors so once engine is hot, that's the moment when power is cut. No more drain to that.

Thew ballast one have two stages to sensing temps to graduate power on two moments, one inside the control and the other one controled by ballast resistor mounted on it. The single stage without ballast onlt have one stage ( temp ) where power is cut or reduced.

About choke never completelly open without 12 volts, that is not true... Here in Venezuela becsue is a tropical country, those controls weren't installed and choke unit wasn't eletricity assisted ( not even had wire ), however engine heat is enough to open the choke. That's why choke unit is mounted on manifold crossover area. I had choke completelly open without electricity asistance before found the control. Just that engne did take more time to open choke.

Make a test on your car. If your choke unit is manifold mounted of course. Unplug it and will see that choke will open the same, just that maybe will take 10-12 minutes instead 5-7.

no one here has those controls installed ? not even 73/74 owners even is on diagram since 71 ?