2 post lifts

[66FBCharger]

I just started the process of looking into getting a 2 post lift for my home garage.
Id like to hear from people who have 2 post lifts.
What are the pros and cons of symmetrical vs. asymetrical?
Which one do you have?
What do you like and what do you dislike?
Are there any features/options you wish you got?
I will primarily be using the lift for my '69 Charger and '70 RR as well as my daily drivers ('13 Dart, '02 Dakota and '17 Challenger GT).
I'm considering a 10,000# 2 post Bendpak.
Give me your feedback please.

[John_Kunkel]

I have an Eagle 9000 lb. asymmetric and am quite satisfied with it. Asymmetric allows you to open the doors wider when it's on the lift so that was a must for me.

Bendpak and Rotary are the recognized best lifts but I don't see the extra money, as long as the lift you choose is certified by the lift association you're OK.

[66FBCharger]

John,
Thanks for the info. One thing I read was the asymmetrical is accomplished by turning the towers, which result in a narrower drive through width.

[GreenMachine]

   I have an asymmetrical 10,000 Bendpak 168" tall. You can set it up in normal and wide configurations. I set up mine wide and it seems setting it up normal would've been too narrow to be able to get in and out of a truck comfortably. The drawback for wide config. would be the arms may not be long enough to reach small vehicles. I was able to raise a warehouse forklift with mine though.

  Most lifts need at least 12' ceiling clearance.

  Get the version where the cables/hydraulics don't run along the floor.  

  You have to pay extra for frame cradle pucks with Bendpak and they are $$$$, it comes with round pucks that will work on framerails, but not as safe. Also mandatory for safety would be a couple of the tall jackstands for stabilizing the car while on the lift.

  It's possible to install one by yourself with an engine hoist to raise the beams, took me about 6-8 hours with Bendpacks vague instructions. You need a minimum 4" 35 psi concrete. When I bought mine it was about $3,000 shipped to local freight terminal, and the 9,000 lb Chinese knockoffs were $1,600-$2400. Having it to do over again, I'd save the $$$ and go with the knockoff as long as it's certified and the tall version was available, probably no difference as most of the parts on my Bendpak look like they came from Harbor Freight, especially the hydraulic rams.

  Lots of posts at garagejournal.com on this subject, all the info you'll need there. Last I heard Bendpaks customer service is going downhill.

  The arms of different manufacturers have different features and some are very versatile. That would be an important thing to look into when owning lots of different types of vehicles. It appears in John's pic, his arms are 2 section telescoping, where my fronts are 2 section and the rears are 3 section. Some cars are very low clearance and need arms to accommodate that. However there are ways around that such as driving up on a block of wood to raise the car enough. I have a modern Challenger too, and the front has very little clearance when positioning the arms.

  When you have yours wired in, be sure and run a neutral wire so you can mount some 120 VAC outlets on your lift for lights, tools, etc. Why they don't come wired with outlets is beyond me. Unless your floor is painted white, you'll need extra lighting while working under the vehicle.

  Since I installed mine, oil changes are a pleasure (with a roll around oil drain), and most work I do on on cars now is much easier.

  Attached pic is shortly after I installed it.

[RiverRaider]

I have three, two old school in ground single post and a two post I bought from Greg Smith Equipment.  Its the 9000lbs Atlas symmetrical lift with super symmetrical arms.  I also purchased the extra width kit so I can work on my car trailers, for the cost it is well worth the extra $150 or so.  It has adjustable height depending on your needs.  I have had no problems the past few years.  I looked at several and Greg Smith was the best cost/quality I found.  Don't forget to calculate shipping and installation costs when looking at lifts.  I did not need a lift designed for a business where it is in constant use so there was no reason spend more on a heavy duty lift.  My largest vehicle is quad cab 8' box Ram 2500 which it handles with no problems.  With the super symmetrical arms there is no need for the post to be asymmetrical getting in and out is not an issue and with the extra width kit there is even more room.  It was easy to put up by myself, not that I would suggest that but its was easy enough.   

[INTMD8]

^I've heard the same as far as quality with the newer Bend Pak's.

I have an older Bend Pak, assymetrical.  I think 12 years old now. Very nice quality, never a single issue. 

At the time I ordered it with low profile lift arms.  Not so much a concern with most Charger's but something to consider if you're going to have low ground clearance cars on it.

[70 sublime]

Can you just bolt a two post lift to any cement floor or do you have to plan ahead and have extra thick concrete in the area for the posts to stand on ?

[INTMD8]

There is a minimum spec which varies by lift manufacturer/design.

Usually 4" for a 2 post.  I don't recall PSI

[alfaitalia]

There is a minimum spec which varies by lift manufacturer/design.

Usually 4" for a 2 post.  I don't recall PSI

Only 4 inches?...surprising....I was expecting you would need a foot or more to make the anchor bolts solid. One of the reasons I've managed without one is that my floor is only 5 to 6 inches thick (over whacked down ballast)....andI did did not need the cost of pouring a new floor...interesting...more research required.

I do however have access to lifts in a friends barn....being flash like he is he has two!...a two post and a four post. Both very useful....but for different jobs. I always feel a lot more comfortable heaving away at a chassis bolt with a three foot breaker bar with the car solidly on all four wheels!

[RiverRaider]

There is a minimum spec which varies by lift manufacturer/design.

Usually 4" for a 2 post.  I don't recall PSI

My manual said 4" min. 3000psi fully cured concrete 6" recommended.  My concrete is 8"+ I used anchor bolts that are over 4" deep into the concrete.  I also used RTV silicone on the base before setting the posts into position to keep out the water when washing the floor down.  I have seen several used hoists that have had deep rust on the bottom plates.  (road salt)  If you have concrete concerns there are base plate kits.

[INTMD8]

alfaitalia, I would think that floor is more than good.  Mine is 4" at the shallowest spot on the left post (looking at it as driving in) and 6.5" on the right post.

My previous smaller garage was 4" all around with the same lift and the posts even overlapped joints in the concrete. Still was there for years without a problem.

I used regular expansion type anchor bolts on mine but I've read epoxy set anchors are even stronger.

My preference is always 2 post unless it's just for parking/storage.  A tripod jack under the rear frame locks it down and removes any 'wiggle' when the breaker bar comes out


RiverRaider, I used RTV on mine as well but just the perimeter base plate to the ground once it was all set up. The base plate kit is a neat idea, I've not seen that.

[alfaitalia]

 

[John_Kunkel]

Many so-called 4" slabs are actually 3.5" because they use a 2X4 as a form.

[birdsandbees]

My floor is 6"+ thick and was aged 17 years before my lift went in and I still cracked the floor as I was too close to the floor cuts with one post.. hense the top "truss" I made to join the posts.

Direct Lift.. the DIY side of Rotary. Other than the cheap noisy Chinese pump it's been flawless for 7 years and a logged 900+ hours of vehicles being supported by it, including our 2500 Sierra crew cab with 8' box and cap.

[Kern Dog]

Being a Carpenter, I went overboard when I built my shop. I planned on eventually getting a 2 post lift so I had 24" X 24" wide, 12" deep footings dug in where the posts were going to be.