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383 build suggestion

Started by WhiteOnGreen, January 09, 2019, 01:53:01 PM

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WhiteOnGreen

Hi, I need a guide for the assembly my 1968 383 engine. He was rebuilt in 2007 aprox and set the L2315 .30 pistons whitout valve reliefs , I unknown bottom end of this engine but looks like a good asseembly in the past. I checked piston to deck block and is consistent 0.004 to 0.006 below deck, 906 open chamber heads and Mopar 284/284 484/484 108 centerline.
Ok, By Ron`s suggestion I buy long time a new camshaft Lunati 702 and the last year I got the opportunity to buy a pair Sidewinder cylinder heads
I looking for a street performance car, power brakes, power steering, A/C (near future) and need a guide for build up.
Thanks in advance

b5blue

Ron's a good judge of parts, I'm running Sidewinders on my overbore 440 and like them so your off to a great start.  :2thumbs:

WhiteOnGreen

Quote from: b5blue on January 09, 2019, 02:49:56 PM
Ron's a good judge of parts, I'm running Sidewinders on my overbore 440 and like them so your off to a great start.  :2thumbs:
Great, Have you the build specs?

Today clean the piston surface and #1 have mark of valve kissed, Hummm, the head valve do not signs or marks, may be older problem.
I read a lort of trheads about aluminium heads have poor efficience because heat loss an is recomended elevate one point compression, since the pistons do not have a valve relief I see a limitation for compression gains. How much piston to valve clearance for secure build? I think milling the heads for compession gain.

c00nhunterjoe

Ive got alot of pistons that look like that. Downside of that style piston. Milling the heads will make it worse. Cam profile change will make it worse. Aluminum heads with 2.14 intake valve will make it worse. The cost to fly cut them and rebalance is more then a new set.

b5blue

  New slugs now will dial in whole build, coon's right. Keep in mind modern fuels, my block build had me chasing ping with 342 heads. Sidewinders fixed that and let me keep more timing. (Weight savings also, Ron recommended CH4B intake and was a good pick. They make a 383 version.)

c00nhunterjoe

The 2315s sitting .006 down is not bad at all, its the lack of valve reliefs that is the issue moving forward.

BSB67

0.080" on the intake, 0.10" on the exhaust.

Your cam is small enough, you might be fine.  If not, you can notch the pistons while they are in the motor.

Consider the Eddy Estreet head.  I think they are 75 cc. 

500" NA, Eddy head, pump gas, exhaust manifold with 2 1/2 exhaust with tailpipes
4150 lbs with driver, 3.23 gear, stock converter
11.68 @ 120.2 mph

c00nhunterjoe

Quote from: BSB67 on January 10, 2019, 05:03:14 PM
0.080" on the intake, 0.10" on the exhaust.

Your cam is small enough, you might be fine.  If not, you can notch the pistons while they are in the motor.

Consider the Eddy Estreet head.  I think they are 75 cc.  

I had a similar setup on my 383 with the flatops and no reliefs and what we will call a purple 509. Mine were trw 2257's. I had eyebrows on every intake, never had a leakage issue. Ran for a very very long time and healthy at that. The e streets would really wake that shortblock up, definatly notch or measure for clearance prior to startup.

WhiteOnGreen

 :cheers: Thamks guys, I go ahead and install the Lunati 702 cam, check piston to valve clearance and and I'll make some decision about the cylinder head.
It's curious about Eddys Street, I got the Sidewinders from a friend who bought a Streets because poor compression in the 440  he is preparing. Replacement pistons in 440 sucks. Sidewinders they were a bargain and have a ports match and bowl blend already.

BSB67

Good enough.

Putting it together and checking is a good plan.  Do you have adjustable rockers?  You'll need to use solid lifters, or something to make sure you're not getting false readings due to lifter plunger movement.   Checking springs are always nice, but you don't need them.

500" NA, Eddy head, pump gas, exhaust manifold with 2 1/2 exhaust with tailpipes
4150 lbs with driver, 3.23 gear, stock converter
11.68 @ 120.2 mph

WhiteOnGreen

Stock factory rockers, at this time they are not affordable for me :'( :'(  and yes, I have a solid lifters for measure purpose. New springs and Comps 10º valve retainers

WhiteOnGreen

Hey, Finaly the past weekend I installed the cam but I can´t setup correctly. I read the post stiked in this secction about similar throuble Dino´s cam install.
I read carefully the complete trhead and my cam looks like same. Lunati 702, 4º avanced 220 Intake duration at 0.050
108 ICL centerline,
112 lobe separation
IN open 2 BTDC
IN closes 38 ABDC
Timming cams chain and sprockets by Comps 3125#
Previous I installed the timming gear  dot to dot 0º but fail.
Set procedure by sticky post but my numbers do not equals and in this moment I know I'm doing something wrong.
Ok, step by step my setup
Crank timming gear in 4º advance position.
Set the upper gear sprocket a new mark left and alig the dots.
In this setup, I read in the indicator dial intake at 0.050 of base circle opens 16º BTDC, card say 2 :P
I continue advancing from here and results
intake at 0.050 before max lift is 96º
intake at 0.050 after max lift 132º
intake at max lift 114 vs card 108
I tried other configurations, but I can not get the correct numbers  :eek2:
Sorry, What am I doing wrong?

update, the maths maybe help. For ICL calc 96+132=228      228/2=114     114-16=108  Is correct?