Six Pack Fuel Lines

[Ghoste]

Is there a correct order of assembly with these things to stop them from leaking?

[c00nhunterjoe]

Steel stock ones? If so, good luck. Vibration, expansion and contraction is your enemy.

[BSB67]

I agree, good luck. 

I have gotten them to work, but don't remember a sure fire bullet that assured success.  Here are a couple of things that I remember. 1) I altered a box end wrench to slip over the tube and ground it for clearance for the nut at the carbs., 2) I lubricated the threads on all of the nuts, and torgued the sh** out of them.   Also, I remember that once it got them to seal, all future R&R was easy.

At the end of the day, because I'm always in my carbs, I usually run a small section of hose between the fuel manifold and the carb, with a modified hose barb fitting at the carb.  For the purest, it not a great look, admittedly.

[c00nhunterjoe]

All of my racers that run 6 packs do not run the stock steel, modified rubber-no problems

[440]

I've got steel lines on mine and they don't leak, unfortunately I didn't install them so I can't be of much use 

[b5blue]

  For new lines snug fit everything in place to set position of curves. Keep in mind 6PK's run about 5LB's of pressure. Gently tighten each line just a bit and repeat a few cycles. (Watch for lines wanting to rotate as you tighten.) Now you can undo the bowl connections and finish tightening the assembly off the car.
 Just remember it's 5-6LB's of pressure and tight enough to allow expansion and contraction in use. I ran my 6BBL in daily use many many years with no issues. (Including runs like Tampa to Richmond and back a year later.)
 For test and tune do like others said and make a rubber hose rig with barbed nipple bowl adapters and fittings. For some reason the line set from "Right Stuff" never fit quite right for me so if you have that brand I don't know what to expect.  
 

[Troy]

I'd have to look to see whose I got last but neither of the repro sets I have purchased leaked. I assemble them loosely as mentioned until everything is roughly pointed in the right direction. I think I may have used Vaseline or something to assist the fittings in compressing without binding. In any case, tightening slowly will allow you to feel when everything seats. There doesn't seem to be a need to get much tighter than that. My front tube (from the pump/vapor separator) always seems to be too tall so use it to position the rest while it's all still loose or you'll just strip all the threads.

Troy

[Bronzedodge]

All good points above.  A "line wrench" or modified box wrench is a must.  Remember that flare fittings seal at the flare, not the threads.  A tiny bit of light oil on the threads is good, as mentioned.  Test fit all the flare nuts in their respective fittings to make sure the threads are ok.  There can be some slop in the dies, so a line that has the wrong shape will put a side load on the fitting.  As Troy said, get them all assembled close, in position, before fully tightening.

[BSB67]

All good points above.  A "line wrench" or modified box wrench is a must.  Remember that flare fittings seal at the flare, not the threads.  A tiny bit of light oil on the threads.....

And as I thought about what I did it included a grease on both the threads, and between the tubing flare and the nut. Ideal being to minimize the thread/nut/flare friction to maximize flare to seat compression.