intake and carburator?

[Bad B-rad]

I think the 440 piston talk could have read 383 or 440 pistons, as the rebuilder kits pistons suck for both 383, or 440 engines.

The OP had a " stock rebuilt" 383, and I think we were just worried he may have ended up with an 8.2 to 1 engine, instead of a 9.5 or a 10 to 1 engine.

[Challenger340]

Still don't understand the 440 piston discussion.  The OP has a 383.

But if we must.  The 68/69 piston has little to nothing to offer worthwhile to the knowledgeable performance enthusiast.  Cant get to zero deck for use with closed chamber heads, and will still detonate with open chamber heads unless you put a big cam in.  No valve notches.  I have a set of +0.030"NHRA approved 68/69 pistons (1.033 - 1.034" CH) in excellent shape.  Tried to sell them.  No one was interested.

NO POINT to the 383/440 "rebuilder" Piston discussion beyond education at this point in time ?
because unfortunately,
it's still happening where unsuspecting souls are rebuilding their 440's being duped into believing a 1.91" or 1.99" C.D. Piston was "correct" for the 68/69 Engines, then ending up with terds.

It just would have been far better over the last 30 years, IMO, to have seen honest 9.3 to 9.5:1 "rebuilt" Engines using the 2.035" Pistons/Fel-Pro Gskt/Open Chamber 88 CC Heads, which would run FINE on 91 Octane with the factory 268/286 Camshaft,
versus,
the I suspect literally thousands of rebuilt so-called "correct" 440 Magnum 7.8:1 to 8.5:1 compression SLUGS out there ?

[euroZ06]

Thank you all for reply's. A lot of info in here.

I want to clear up some stuff: car does have MSD ignition. As far as I can tell, the car is fairly stock, aside from aftermarket carb (but it looks tiny). I have no idea what was done to the engine during the rebuilt. It looks stock, it looks clean, it runs veeeery well and starts from half a turn. From the sound of it, it has a stock size cam. The car is set up to be a cruiser, so its very calm, with very long gears. I want a little more aggression, without sacrificing the stock feel of the car... I've had a 68 charger before, that had a 440 (from 74), with mild cam, 3 inch headers, upgraded intake, 4.10 gears, and it was awesomely wild (dynode at 210whp ). As I age though, I tend to like the all stock look/feel of the car. A little here and there is ok, but just within reason. 

My shifter linkage is not set up well and the car shifts too soon at WOT( around 2k rpm), plus it doesn't downshift. I have lokar kickdown kit sitting, so i'll prob try to install it next weekend.... plus yesterday my throttle cable broke off from the throttle lever by the carb (I'm super confused how it was set up in the first place), but I have throttle bracket kit, so i'll see if I can set that up as well.

Someone mentioned getting the new diff for $1k... can you please post the link. And also the names of the shops in Long Island? Car was on consignment with the dealer in LI, so maybe one of these shops did the work on the car.

So if I understand you all correctly:
1st: go to the track, and see what the car runs in the 1/4 mile... from there we can figure out what my 383 is giving out. A few weeks ago I ran into one of those new challengers at the light, I'm not sure what engine it had (I want to say it was an R/T), but in first gear I had him by a fender, and only when I switched to second did he start to pass me. Also, recently I had a small trip to jersey, and I was on NJ turnpike, the car easily got from 70mph to 100mph, and I even got it up to 120mph, it didn't seem to strain too much.

2nd: different gearing will wake up the car the most

3rd: cam is the second thing...

and anything after cam is a slippery slope. Hm... so maybe I can just swap the diff, get some electrical cutouts and be happy?

[Bad B-rad]

Yeah, I think if you go to the track and run it 3 or 4 times, with those slips, your cars weight, and gear ratio, we can figure out what your putting out(aprox ) HP wise, and that can help decide what modes you should make.
It sounds like it runs great, so hopefully it has a compression ratio of 9:1 or better. Then you know you have a very solid engine to stat from.

Good luck!!!!
And cant wait to hear your 1/4 mile times.

[euroZ06]

Thanks!

This is the carb that i have


This is the engine bay! I really dig the stock look to it!

[Bad B-rad]

Nice, looking good!!!
Can you take a picture of the exhaust manifolds, or do you know if they are the 383/440 4Bbl/HP or the 2Bbl manifolds?
The carb also has some numbers on it that should help ID the CFM and model, it looks like a decent carb.(you just need the MOPAR throttle adaptor!!!)

I had the same GM style booster and master, from Master Power Brakes, and it always bugs me to see that under the hood of a Dodge, LOL, it is just something wrong with me.

[XH29N0G]

That is a mechanical secondary carburetor, so I would think the issue would only be the size, or if it is getting too much gas and bogging?  I suspect you are in pretty good shape.

[firefighter3931]

(you just need the MOPAR throttle adaptor!!!)

Yep, that throttle linkage setup will not work properly as set up. Buy a Holley 20-7 throttle adapter and install it.   

The way it's currently set up will not allow for wide open throttle.....you're probably only getting 3/4 open with the pedal to the floor. 

There is a list # stamped on the choke horn which will identify the carb 



Ron

[euroZ06]

(you just need the MOPAR throttle adaptor!!!)

Yep, that throttle linkage setup will not work properly as set up. Buy a Holley 20-7 throttle adapter and install it.   

The way it's currently set up will not allow for wide open throttle.....you're probably only getting 3/4 open with the pedal to the floor. 

There is a list # stamped on the choke horn which will identify the carb 



Ron

(you just need the MOPAR throttle adaptor!!!)

Yep, that throttle linkage setup will not work properly as set up. Buy a Holley 20-7 throttle adapter and install it.   

The way it's currently set up will not allow for wide open throttle.....you're probably only getting 3/4 open with the pedal to the floor. 

There is a list # stamped on the choke horn which will identify the carb 



Ron

I actually have that part laying around! I also have lokar kickdown kit, and lokr throttle bracket kit. Aaaand as my luck would have it, my throttle cable broke the little piece that connected it to the carb link. So im considering getting lokar throttle cable...