Initial start up- NO spark

[NHCharger]

Just tried to fired up my freshly rebuilt 440. No go. I have 12 volts to the end of the coil wire where it plugs into the distributor but when I put an inline tester on one of the plug wires it shows no spark.
I have the engine ground on the back of the engine attached to the fire wall.
This is a Firecore RTR system which eliminates the orange box and ballast resistor.
I have this set up in my 68 Charger and it fired first crack.
I also used a suction pump to pull fuel to to carb and dumped a small amount of fuel into the carb. I even installed this carb on my other Charger last week to make sure it worked properly.
If I screwed up the plug wiring wouldn't I at least have spark?

[XH29N0G]

I'm not an expert and I know you know more about circuits than me, but here goes a stab in the dark.  I had a situation earlier this year with a weak spark and then no spark that turned out to be the coil which I found by making the resistance measurements.  I don't think the wiring of the plugs will make any difference to whether there is spark.  The spark will just be at the wrong time and it won't start.

[NHCharger]

I have a friend who is a mechanic coming over tomorrow. He's a hardcore Mopar guy so I know he will figure it out.

[Nacho-RT74]

ok, lets see...

you have to splice blue and brown wires together to RTR distributors when eliminating the ballast...

OR, modify the ballast on backside, removing the resistor from groove and installing a jumper wire between ends on ceramic groove, to be able to keep the ballast stock look on firewall, even becomes on a cheating assembly.

When using aftermarket modules such as MSD but no RTR dist, ballast can be stay in line like factory, since the same coil source used on stock assembly is just a remote on trigger, so the ballast won't affect the MSD module turn on signal.

while cranking up, the brown wire is the source coming from ign switch to all the engine wiring... when in RUN is the blue wire the source. On both setups... with or without ballast, both wirings remains hot, BUT the coming main source change according from the ign switch stage. This change was made just to full feed the coil from ign switch for a faster crank up bypassing the ballast while cranking.

SO... check if you are getting power at brown wire when cranking up. If you don't, then you have a problem on ign switch, related plug down the column or bulkhead plug.

another good diagnosis for the failing stage can be the brake light at cluster... should stay on while cranking. This light is sourced straight from RUN circuit on underdash harness. When cranking up, the blue circuit is retrofeeded from the brown circuit, not anymore from ign switch. When you have the ballast that's the reason why this light dimms out, because goes back through the ballast. IF THE BRAKE LIGHT doens't keep on while cranking, you have a brown circuit failure at the points described above

[NHCharger]

Update. My buddy came over and we tested the wiring. Ends up I have a bad coil. Will order another one tomorrow.

[Nacho-RT74]

cool...

there is a way to test the coil with ohmeter, per manuals this is the ohms reading must be get

primary circuit between leads:
1.44 to 1.55 ( Essex ign )
1.65 to 1.79 ( prestolite ign )
1.34 to 1.55 ( from 80 )

secondary circuit ( center lead and any of the outer leads )
8K to 10.7K ( Essex ign )
9.4K to 11.7K ( prestolite ign )
8K to 12K ( from 80 )

of course stock system values.. I guess Performance systems should be on similar rates toward to the lower side to get more output

[Highbanked Hauler]

Update. My buddy came over and we tested the wiring. Ends up I have a bad coil. Will order another one tomorrow.

    Did you hear the bullet go by you ? At least its an easy fix

[dual fours]

Update. My buddy came over and we tested the wiring. Ends up I have a bad coil. Will order another one tomorrow.

   Did you hear the bullet go by you ? At least its an easy fix

Order two, make sure both work, then run one for three months then swap it out for the other one then you'd have a backup in the trunk.