Resto mod or original

[mattretch9888]

Hi guys

Got a decision to make on my 69 r/t restoration. Should I go with original suspension and brakes, just refurbed? Or should I upgrade to coilovers and power disc brakes?

The car has no build sheet or fender tag, vin does indentify it as an original r/t, but not sure if to bother with originality seeing as these items are missing.

I'm set on not going original colour, so kinda figure I should just go for resto mod route.

Thanks in advance for any advice

[Bronzedodge]

Does it have 11" drums now?  Go with discs, if just for safety's sake.  You never know when you'll need that 2nd panic stop.  If you have the $$, upgrades to suspension and alignment specs make for a nicer driving, handling car.

[Nacho-RT74]

I'm agreed! if is a "regular" R/T with 440 and 727 with 8 3/4, and needs a full resto ( not a survivor ) with no other data but the VIN, I think is nice to make reversible mechanic upgrades on it, with bolt on pieces, including engine touch ups even being matching numbers... but still keeping somehow factory R/T look... nothing radical thought

[Fitz73Chrgr]

Upgrade!

[alfaitalia]

Yep, upgrade....unless its a very rare Charger. Just don't touch the shell...very difficult to improve on perfection!

[garner7555]

I definitely say upgrade.   I don't think it is necessary to swap to coil springs though, unless you just want to go that route.   There are a lot of cars that autocross with torsion bars and leaf springs.  As long as your package matches up and is fine tuned then it will handle like a dream.     

Have a look at this thread as an option for brakes.   I went this route with 14" brembos up front and stock mustang rear disc.   Might save you some money.     

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,122780.0.html

[Nacho-RT74]

There are correct 68/72 front disc setups being offered around but you can get also laters ( post 73 ) disc system cheaper which are bolt on and still will be buying for Mopar parts. Centric offers drilled and slotted front discs for all years Mopars.

Rears, well aftermarket is allmost the only option being made SPECIFICALLY for the car aside what it was posted with little mods. 70s Imperials got rear disc from factory but not easy to find.

suspension can be upgraded still with factory setup as mentioned... Thicker sway and T bars, tubular control arms, and caltracks for rear springs for example... everything of that is available bolt on

[fizz]

Since I had an original that I drove daily for years, I can say that the bigger engine made it way more fun, the overdrive trans made it way more drivable, the hotchkiss upgrades to the stock suspension made it handle, the hydro/disc brake upgrades actually gave it really good brakes, the aftermarket air conditioning gets me to drive it more, and the Dakota digital dash gave me accurate gauges. All made to a low optioned r/t.

[DixieRestoParts]

Good comments/advice above. I think the question you need to answer for yourself, is what are you going for? Do you want a "restored" car, or "day 2" car as in mildly modified like back in day, wheels, cam, headers, etc. Or do you want a resto-mod? For me, a lot of the enjoyment is driving an original car. I realize it's limitations and don't drive outside them.

If I had the money to also have a resto-mod, I'd probably have one of those too. Other than the outward appearance they are very different cars. So, what driving experience do you want? Luckily with today's technology, you can pretty much tailor it to your taste, from pure stock to resto-mod or anything in between.

[Brass]

I don't think it is necessary to swap to coil springs though, unless you just want to go that route.   There are a lot of cars that autocross with torsion bars and leaf springs.  As long as your package matches up and is fine tuned then it will handle like a dream.    

x2    

[darbgnik]

Good comments/advice above. I think the question you need to answer for yourself, is what are you going for? Do you want a "restored" car, or "day 2" car as in mildly modified like back in day, wheels, cam, headers, etc. Or do you want a resto-mod? For me, a lot of the enjoyment is driving an original car. I realize it's limitations and don't drive outside them.

If I had the money to also have a resto-mod, I'd probably have one of those too. Other than the outward appearance they are very different cars. So, what driving experience do you want? Luckily with today's technology, you can pretty much tailor it to your taste, from pure stock to resto-mod or anything in between.

I agree here, mine being a day 2-ish, factory original-ish car. Any mods I do, I try to have them not stick out. Even will try to hide the fuel injection as best I can.

BTW, the fuel injection I'm doing is mainly for drivability, and to get rid of the fuel smell in the garage, not performance.

[pipeliner]

Restomod baby. I remember the days driving my 70 Charger RT with the 727, with 3.91 gears no AC. It was kind of fun at the time but I'm glad I've done everything to my car and I keep on making it better. I love my Dakota Digital Gauges, Vintage Air, T-56 Magum. Be-Cool Direct Fit Rad Set-up and Borgeson Steering. Ordering my 18" Magnums next week. This spring it will get Disc All around it.

[JR]

Modified. No doubt.

[chargerperson]

One vote for resto mod

[INTMD8]

It's all personal preference.  I've built some resto mod cars and thought about the direction I would take my current 69.

Hmm, should I pull the 426 and do a Hellcat engine? Then I'm thinking with 700+hp it's going to be a snowball effect of, now I need to get rid of the leaf springs, then big brakes, therefore bigger wheels so on and so forth to try and make a 50 year old car turn corners when I already have a sports car.

Nope. Gonna stick with the 426, regular radials, leaf springs and do burnouts 

[darbgnik]

It's all personal preference.  I've built some resto mod cars and thought about the direction I would take my current 69.

Hmm, should I pull the 426 and do a Hellcat engine? Then I'm thinking with 700+hp it's going to be a snowball effect of, now I need to get rid of the leaf springs, then big brakes, therefore bigger wheels so on and so forth to try and make a 50 year old car turn corners when I already have a sports car.

Nope. Gonna stick with the 426, regular radials, leaf springs and do burnouts 

Well thought out. 

[pipeliner]

It's all personal preference.  I've built some resto mod cars and thought about the direction I would take my current 69.

Hmm, should I pull the 426 and do a Hellcat engine? Then I'm thinking with 700+hp it's going to be a snowball effect of, now I need to get rid of the leaf springs, then big brakes, therefore bigger wheels so on and so forth to try and make a 50 year old car turn corners when I already have a sports car.

Nope. Gonna stick with the 426, regular radials, leaf springs and do burnouts 

What you just mentioned fits into the Pro-Touring Class.

[JR]

You can do mild modifications that will greatly improve how the car drives, without turning it into a full blown pro touring car.

Chassis stiffening, sway bars, shocks, springs, better wheels/tires, adjustable upper control arms and disc brakes can be added without taking away or changing the character of the car.

My car has received a ton of bolt on modifications for handling purposes, but it still feels every bit of a vintage classic Charger to drive. I see it as correcting the terrible tuning choices the factory engineers made. It's 150% more enjoyable to drive now, competently controls its weight, and actually drives like I imagined it would before I owned it.

There's a ton of area for enjoyment between a completely stock Charger, and a 100k pro touring build with a hellcat swap. It doesn't have to be one or the other exclusively.

[mike69440]

It is what you want to get out of the car.  Your asking, so here is my two cents.

Go in with the intention of never selling it. Make it so you can rack up the miles on it. Plan to take it on vacations and trips. 2n'd Gen Charger is timeless beauty. Don't put to much make-up on the shell or plastic surgery.  No stupid car show bling or mechanical mods that end up making it less of a driver.
Stiffen it up. Protect it from rust for your lifetime plus. Rotisserie the shell.
For a driver, high 400 to low 500 RWHP will feel just right on the street. Aluminum Head on iron block Second Gen Hemi with carbs or the 3nd Gen (Semi Hemi). Could consider an aftermarlet Fuelie RB as they do make power.  A Whipple Supercharged car really s nice, but you will need lots of supporting mods as well as a super chassis and drivetrain, and YOU may have to cut up the hood, so I would pass on huge power.   Install a new TREMEC 6 Speed, for the driving involvement.  I like looks of a trucky Dana 60.  Restore not rest-mod the dash.  Keep most of interior stock. Add stock center Console if you don't have one and can find one. For seats, if they are going to cast a fortune to reupholster, consider Recaros etc. Spend some money on cooling, air conditioning, and Big Brakes & 18" max. size wheels.  Be prepared to spend $60 - $85K.
Think, research & plan before you start. Have a goal and Balance everything to work in harmony.

I find this totally inspiring: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php the shell/topic,110212.0.html
Please post Pictures.  I would paint it glossy black.
Don't wreck it on first ride. Good Luck.

[INTMD8]

What you just mentioned fits into the Pro-Touring Class.

I've always felt the terms were somewhat interchangeable.  What makes a pro-touring car not a resto mod and a resto mod not a pro-touring car?

[JB400]

Resto mod looks stock outside of wheels from the exterior and interior, but may have suspension and motor upgrades to make it perform better.

Pro Touring is a car that has been upgraded in every aspect to look and perform better.  Doesn't mean it looks stock, but some do.

[INTMD8]

Resto mod looks stock outside of wheels from the exterior and interior, but may have suspension and motor upgrades to make it perform better.

Pro Touring is a car that has been upgraded in every aspect to look and perform better.  Doesn't mean it looks stock, but some do.

Resto mod looks stock outside of wheels but -may- have suspension and engine upgrades? I would say if it didn't it would just be stock, no?

Pro-touring has been upgraded in every aspect but may look stock.  Sounds like if it is a stock appearing Pro-touring car that also fits the definition of Resto mod.

What if it's stock other than a Hellcat engine? Or completely stock appearing with stock drivetrain and has top of the line suspension and brakes?

IMO there are too many variations to really put a hard definition on these terms.

[Nacho-RT74]

I'm agreed... there are several Resto-mod levels. In this specific case, as I mentioned would try to keep the correct R/T look and equipment with slight bolt on upgrades "hard to tell" from the distance, including the inside gutters of the engine and tranny for more juice, some adds on engine bay.... but still being somehow stockish look. Is still an R/T and not every Charger is an R/T.

I'd play with what aftermarket performance world offers on stock look system. For example I mentioned CalTracks springs, but... really necesary for street use ? I don't think so.

What I would do for street, being more extensive on my opinion than my previous replies:

Rear sway bar was not available back there but is a huge improvement for street handle and won't disturb the stock look... and thicker front sway bar is allmost a must allong with new T-Bars maybe even one step thicker.

Hipo Shocks like KYB Gas-A-Just on the cheap OR RCD ( Blisteing assembly ) for more if money is not a problem. The deal is get mono tube instead twin tube.

As mentioned... Caltracks are nice, but REALLY necesary ? MP offers good performance replacement springs. Some other manufacturers too. Caltracks are bolt on anyway.

Rear spring sliders instead shackles. Those are not really a BOLT on mod, BUT is a non visible mod still keeping springs and not hard to install or uninstall

Drilled and slotted front disc ( being an R/T should got front disc, right ? ). Those are available and not really expensive. metallic or ceramic pads. I went ceramic to keep clean the wheels. If didn't get front discs you can go with 73 and lates A body setup spindle and disc assembly and won't go wrong. Allways will request for Mopar parts for mantenience.

I don't think rear disc are really necesary, but upgraded with better pads ( metallic ? ) and new quality gutters.

Power disc... yes definitelly if you got non Powered, a powered setup is a GREAT upgrade. Stock pieces are quite enough.

You didn't mention if manual or powered steering. I like the powered steering setup. Why bother about manual if is for street use ?

I don't think tubulars &/or adjustable control arms are really necesary, but if they are damaged could be an option for replacement. Same about K member.

Torque boxes or Subframe conectors... I'd go with Torque boxes since they were equipped back then on convertibles and HP cars... and both are designed for the same job, for street I think torque boxes are quite enough. Subframe were/are offered by MP more for race.

Some upgrade kit for the Tranny... several options out there by B&M and TransGo, mainly to change the valve body programing. Performance TC of course.

Engine... whatever you want from basic upgrade up to stroke options. Nothing look bad on this step for any car on a plain or fully Resto-Mod.

Cooling system... I like the stock fan and clutch look and those work nice. Same about radiator. Stock radiator can be reassembled/rebuilt on a 4 row setup if you got 3 rows. I don't think aluminium is really necesary

Ignition... well there are WAY several options around, from nice restored and adjusted points, Ignitor systems, Performance Modules ( Rev-N-Nator, MP, MSD ) up to RTR distributors, your choose, but PLEASE, not do HEI!!! that looks AWFULL on a Mopar.

Exhaust... whatever you want. Personally I don't like long headers. If you ask me, those are a headache, but shorties are quite enough.

Rear axle ratio...3.55 or 3.73 on SG are GREAT for street. I don't think on more.

Wheels... please, not more than 17", and on a vintage look line.

And definitelly, even if you change the color combo scheme, don't get away from the R/T stock look. If vinyl top, I'd keep it no matter if diff color. Bumble bee stripe looks great on a "ghost" or reflective look ( or both together ) if you ask me. One of my fav would be black reflective stripe on black body. Same about white, or any other color, no matter if stripe color was not available back then or reflective.

Stock electrical system works nice, just underrated alternators used back then. Check my stickied thread about some upgrades for that. Myself, I'd go with Tuff stuff alternator ( and will go when money is enough ). Check throughly the conditions and change/clean whichever is necesary. That area uses to be allways left at a side and never took seriouslly, then problems begin.

Stock interior looks GREAT from dash up to seats, and being a real R/T is better in that way... please don't play with that. New parts if you want, but stock look

Those are just my 2 cents