News:

It appears that the upgrade forces a login and many, many of you have forgotten your passwords and didn't set up any reminders. Contact me directly through helpmelogin@dodgecharger.com and I'll help sort it out.

Main Menu

how to test 72 charger hideaway headlight motor

Started by 400sforever, December 09, 2017, 04:43:34 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

400sforever

in order to test a 72 hideaway headlight motor do you ground the top spade and then apply power to the male spade and then the female end independently for up and down power in order to see if the motor works? also you would have to be able to switch the power off right away after the motor moves each direction because there would be nothing to "stop" the motor from trying to keep turning? am I right in my testing theory? Im wanting to test the motor outside of the car. Thanks!
1974 dodge charger se 512 cubic inches, 3.91 suregrip

DAY CLONA

Quote from: 400sforever on December 09, 2017, 04:43:34 PM
in order to test a 72 hideaway headlight motor do you ground the top spade and then apply power to the male spade and then the female end independently for up and down power in order to see if the motor works? also you would have to be able to switch the power off right away after the motor moves each direction because there would be nothing to "stop" the motor from trying to keep turning? am I right in my testing theory? Im wanting to test the motor outside of the car. Thanks!



The headlight motor has a ground connection, ground that to negative(-) of your power supply, the 2 leads in the wire pigtail on the motor are both positive(+) apply your positive power supply to one of the connectors in the pigtail, but not to both at the same time to forward or reverse the motor

The motor has both mechanical and electrical internal stops, the electrical stops are similar to points, one set opens as the other closes, the dash switch depending on it's position sends a hot/positive charge to the required hot lead in the pigtail connector to "forward or reverse" the motor, the electrical "stops" also insure the motor is not electrically loaded when it comes to rest on the mechanical stops and burns out the motor, don't worry if you run the motor to it's stops

FYI...power window motors have no stops, they rely on the elongated end teeth of the regulator or the adjusted glass stops to bind the motor in a stop position it is however still under electrical load until you release the switch or change switch position/polarity, a power window motor being bench tested by itself will rotate non stop in one direct or the other as long as power is supplied...

Mike

Nacho-RT74

Correct... on a window motor you are the boss to stop the power. If switch gets stuck, the thermal breaker on fuse box will break the power. On hideaways motor, is a mechanical point built on internal gears
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

400sforever

Thanks for the info! Just what I was looking for!
1974 dodge charger se 512 cubic inches, 3.91 suregrip