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1968 dodge ignition system

Started by rompy61, October 13, 2017, 11:30:52 AM

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rompy61

Hi Guys. New to this so stick with me. I have a totally stock 68 dodge charger. She's a 440 r/t. Died on me. Lack of spark.
So that I can start form the beginning. Can anyone tell me what voltages I am supposed to have at the ignition key. At the input on the ballast resistor. Output of the ballast resistor? I think that I should be getting 12volts in and out when cranking then it drops to 8 volts??
I am getting 3.1 volts on the input and about 1.9 volts going off to the coil
Stock coil. Stock distributor. Stock condenser.
Any help greatly appreciated for a stupid Englishman (Not Richard Hammond) :shruggy:

70 sublime

Did you check the wires where they go through the firewall in the big square block ?
Sometimes they get crusty there
Is the heavy red wire in that block good or partly melted ?
next project 70 Charger FJ5 green

moparstuart

Quote from: 70 sublime on October 13, 2017, 11:35:44 AM
Did you check the wires where they go through the firewall in the big square block ?
Sometimes they get crusty there
Is the heavy red wire in that block good or partly melted ?
common to happen water leaks right down the fire wall to those plugs  ,  I alway fill my connections with dielectric grease
GO SELL CRAZY SOMEWHERE ELSE WE ARE ALL STOCKED UP HERE

rompy61


rompy61

Morning Guys
Thanks for your pointers; but seems like I had two problems.
First . A tiny piece of the top of the rotor arm had broken off and fallen down the side of the dizzi casing, shorting out the copper connection between the condenser and points.. Yup like I said all as she came out of factory. :)
And two. The multimeter I was using was faulty on 12 volt  :icon_smile_angry:
Manage to find a replacement rotor, changed the cap and points at the same time just for maintenance and bingo; into life she purred.
Took her out for a celebratory drive and she dropped the driver side rear half shaft seal. Oil and smoke !!!!!!
Did the passenger side  bearing and seal last week and dont think I adjusted the end float properly. Read somewhere on here that it is only supposed to be the thickness for a piece of paper, or 0.010 Is that RIGHT ????? My axle had a good 1/4 inch movement on the half shafts when I took the passenger side out. So left it the same when I put her back together. Sorry. Its an 8 3/4 rear axle
More help greatly appreciated.
Thnaks

Simonic

Hi There,
Where in the UK are you based?
Would be nice to see a pic of your car.
UK bought or imported?
Mopar owner in the UK..

John_Kunkel

Quote from: rompy61 on October 16, 2017, 02:11:20 AM
My axle had a good 1/4 inch movement on the half shafts when I took the passenger side out. So left it the same when I put her back together. Sorry. Its an 8 3/4 rear axle

That's way too much. There is an adjuster on the right bearing retainer but I doubt if it would take up that much play. If the rear has Sure-Grip, it's possible that one of the thrust buttons in the center has fallen out...quite common.
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

rompy61

Hi John. Thanks for the info. No she is totally as she came out of Hamtrack. 8 &3/4 with a 3.23 diff. I have stripped her down again, both sides and found that the guy that pressed on the offside bearing didn't press it on all the way!!! My fault for not noticing, i know but annoying. Finished the job myself with some scaff tube, a vice and part of the old bearing. Adjusted up the end float and shes good to go. Took her out for a test and she's a happy girl. Still got a resonating over 55mph, but I will start to look into that this weekend. Is that a common problem with the dodges??? I see from other topics that it seems to come up quite often. Its not scary shaking, just a rumble through the whole car. Wheels balanced. Axle now done, Prop bushes seem fine.
Appreciate your knowledge.
Thanks