Milodon Water Pumps

[Shakey]

After looking through the tech section I have taken the advice from some and went and purchased a Milodon High Volume Water Pump (p/n 16260).  A local guy had one in stock so I snuck out of the office and went and picked it up this morning.  I also bought a 160* High Flow Thermostat (p/n 16405) and a 180* High Flow Thermostat (p/n 16406) as well.  I am undecided on which t-stat to use so I bought both for now.  I figured I'd use the 160 until I get a fan shroud and then switch to the 180*.

My question to you folks:

What makes this water pump a high volume pump?

It only has 6 vanes like the original one I took off the car.

[firefighter3931]

The impeller design is different and it has an anti cavitation plate as well. Those are the cream of the crop for mechanical pumps...good score Mike ! 

Ron

[Just 6T9 CHGR]

Im using one with a 160º matching high flow stat.

Battling some cooling issues this year......I think my cap might be failing (not holding psi)  Gonna try a replacement soon

[Rolling_Thunder]

I'm using one replacement one for a 1970 440 wagon and it flows well enough to keep my car cool

[Chryco Psycho]

I bet the car runs hotter with the 160 stat than the 180 stat

[Ghoste]

Why would that be Neil?

[dodge freak]

Well I think if it did run hotter with a 160 over a 180 is because the water would stay it the rad. longer. To me that would just mean you need a better or bigger rad. I live up in cold michigan and only run a 160 in the summer and 180 in the spring and fall. If I lived in texas I would just keep 160 in all the time expect winter. If you do block the exhaust heat to the intake then 180 might be the best. I did both ways and now I keep the exhaust heat open on my intake even tho it would run better in the summer without it. I like driving it so much its out on the street as soon as the salt on the road is gone, even if its only 25 degrees outside

[RD]

I have milodon on my 400 and I have no cooling problems whatsoever.  I have a 3 core radiator and a 180 deg thermostat. 

If any of you have a dodge pickup 85-91, my temp gauge hits the second tick mark when the thermostat opens and settles down to stay between the 1st and 2nd tick mark on the gauge during 60-70 degree weather.  80-up it hits the second tick mark and does not go higher, even at idle. 

I am really satisfied with the milodon w/p.

[Shakey]

I bet the car runs hotter with the 160 stat than the 180 stat

Can you explain why you think / know that?

Can you offer some suggestions as to what you would do?

Thanks in advance.

[4402tuff4u]

The cooling theory, as explained to me by Neil (Chryco), using the low temp thermostat the fluid does not get a chance to cool off in the radiator long enough before the thermostat is open again for a switch and sent back to the engine again. I got a high temp thermostat (195*) allowing the cooling fluid to remain in rad longer and allowing the heat to dissipitate before returning to the engine. I have not ran my engine yet to confirm this but I trust Neil's recommendations. 

[Ghoste]

Well, that certainly follows into the arguments that are made for not using a high flow water pump. 

[RD]

i believe the cooling capacity of a radiator is dependent on the size of the radiator moreso than the thermostat.  The thermostat's all open up and based upon the volume of fluid that the w/p pushes, the flow per cubic foot will be the same based upon the consistency of the w/p.  The issue lies within the restriction of the fluid flow through the radiator, which will cause backpressure on the entire cooling system.  A smaller radiator, or one that has major restriction issues due to calcium or other deposits, will not allow the most efficient flow of fluid through it in order for the fluid to be cooled EVEN IF IT HAS A HV water pump.  The restriction of the smaller radiator will then cause the already heated fluid situated by the engine to stay in that state for a longer period of time thus causing a direct increase in engine temperature.  If you were to have a larger radiator that moved more fluid through its cores, the somewhat stagnated fluid situated around the engine that caused the increases in engine temperature would move more quickly and allow for a quicker replacement of cooled fluid to take its place.

The cooling system is exactly that.  Not one component can make bring about the best results.  It is a compilation of the components that accomplish this i.e. radiator, fan, fan shroud, thermostat, and proper size hoses.

If I had a HV w/p, a 3 core radiator, a 180 thermostat, a fan shroud, and a clutch fan versus a HV w/p, a 1 core radiator, a 160 thermostat, a fan shroud, and a clutch fan and all items worked as they should, the 3 core radiator will keep the vehicle cooler.

[firefighter3931]

Well said Jamey 

The thermostat does not determine the engines operating temperature for the mostpart. The cooling systems efficiency has the final say in that department. The thermostat just determines how fast or slow it reaches operating temperature. A cooler stat (160*) will create a longer warming up period while the hotter (180*) will have the opposite effect. Most BB mopars will run around 170-190* with the oem style rad/shroud/fan etc...Personally, i've found 165-170* to be ideal for power and performance.

The one exception would be an instance where the cooling sytems capacity/efficiency was so great that the engine wouldn't be able to reach operating temperature and would require a hotter stat to do so. That usually isn't the case with factory type rads which work well but aren't super efficient. This type of scenerio would apply to an aftermarket aluminum rad with increased thermal efficiency. In that case you might need to go with a warmer stat to keep the engine warm enough. A friend was in that exact situation after his aluminum rad install...with a 160* stat it sat right at 160* which was just a little too cool. A 180* stat fixed the problem and it seemed to run better afterwards.

Ron

[Shakey]

Thanks for all of the input fellas.

My rad seems strong, but could use a couple of fins to be straightened and a coat of paint would make it look new.

My next step is to locate a 22" fan shroud.

Have a great weekend.