Is there a spacer between Bendix booster and disc master?

[375instroke]

My drum master has a spacer between it and the booster.  The Bendix booster kit I got didn't come with one, and the master has bolts sticking out the back that prevent it from sitting flush with the booster.  They sell a spacer separate that says for Midland Ross boosters only.  What's going on here?

[375instroke]

Here's the booster and master.  I'm thinking the boot is for manual brake applications and can be removed.  Do these mount flush against the booster with a foam gasket?  The drum brake booster has an aluminum spacer, breather, filter assembly that goes between them.

[gtx6970]

no spacer on disc brake applications

[John_Kunkel]

A power brake MC would have a snap ring retaining the rear piston, the MC with a retainer plate and bellows seal is for manual brakes.

[375instroke]

I called Classic Industries, and they assured me that I am to remove the boot and retainer, and I'm good to go.  The piston came out by about 1/8", but is retained, and there's no groove inside for holding the rubber retainer used with manual brakes to hold the push rod in place.  I've seen these disc boosters and master cylinders show up at the same time at many different retailers.  I'm assuming they are all made by the same company and if there was a problem, I would have read about it by now.  Am I wrong?

[Just 6T9 CHGR]

You have a Hemi engine style MC....Lines exit toward fender.  Just make sure you order the correct lines....

All other engine disc brake cars have lines exiting toward the engine

[375instroke]

That is a gorgeous engine compartment.  Did they change to the driver's side in '70?  It's so bizarre why they would make some applications brake lines exit on the driver's side, and other applications exit the passenger side.

[ACUDANUT]

Brake lines should be on the other side .

[375instroke]

Well, the car didn't come with discs, and I'm using the single piston sliders, so originality's out the door already.  The booster really isn't correct, either, so there's that.  The drum and Hemi masters exit the driver's side, and that's where my lines are now, so it'll have to be this way.  This is my only running car, so I can't wait around to find the correct parts.

[375instroke]

Some of my masters have the C-clip holding the piston in, and some have a tab held in place with a screw in one of the countersunk holes to retain the piston.  I'm going to take one of those off another master and put it on this one since there's no provision for a C-clip, and the piston comes back far enough for me to see the rear O-ring.

[gtx6970]

That bolt on the bottom of the housing goes up in a retains the piston from coming out

[ACUDANUT]

On the firewall there is 1/4 plate. Between the firewall and power booster. 

[70phil]

I noticed that you have a red hose clamp on the vacuum line at the booster, is that correct for all vacuum booster lines and also I noticed that the vacuum hose comes out from the middle of the valve. I had the same valve on my 70 dics brake booster valve, I noticed that many valve hoses come from the side of the new valves sold now. Which is correct, and should they be painted black?

[green69rt]

Sorry 375instroke, but I can't get any of your pictures to display. 

I'm going thru something similiar.  New repro booster, and a master cylinder from DocDiff.  Just got off the phone with him.   I have a completely new system with front discs and rear drums.  Got a MC with the boot and plate mounted with bolts that prevent the MC from setting flush with the booster surface.   Cass at DorDiff told me to remove the boot, mounting plate and bolts.  When this happens the piston (spring loaded will push out from the body of the MC about 1/8 to 3/16 inch.  The piston won't come all the way out because of a retaining bolt (you can see it in the bottom of the MC body.)

He told me that I need to adjust the booster output shaft so that it preloads the MC piston so that it is flush with the MC body when they are bolted together.  Well great, but you can't see anything with it bolted up so all you can do is measure the extension of the piston and then adjust the output plunger of the booster so it preloads the piston by the same amount.  There's a tip on the output plunger with a lock nut behind it.  Loosen the lock nut, turn the tip (it screws in and out) and then retighten the lock nut.

If the plunger is not touching the piston then a lot of peddle travel will be used in taking up the slack and the brakes may not engage, if the piston is adjusted out to far then the MC piston will always be engaged and will keep you brakes on all the time.

If I got anything wrong here please chime in cause this is all new to me and just relaying what I heard.

[Just 6T9 CHGR]

Booster adjustment instructions....

[green69rt]

Thanks    Just 6T9 CHGR.

That's pretty close to my plan.  I was hoping that there was a more precise method of doing this adjustment.  I guess we just have to live with this arrangement.

[375instroke]

Sorry 375instroke, but I can't get any of your pictures to display. 

I'm going thru something similiar.  New repro booster, and a master cylinder from DocDiff.  Just got off the phone with him.   I have a completely new system with front discs and rear drums.  Got a MC with the boot and plate mounted with bolts that prevent the MC from setting flush with the booster surface.   Cass at DorDiff told me to remove the boot, mounting plate and bolts.  When this happens the piston (spring loaded will push out from the body of the MC about 1/8 to 3/16 inch.  The piston won't come all the way out because of a retaining bolt (you can see it in the bottom of the MC body.)

He told me that I need to adjust the booster output shaft so that it preloads the MC piston so that it is flush with the MC body when they are bolted together.  Well great, but you can't see anything with it bolted up so all you can do is measure the extension of the piston and then adjust the output plunger of the booster so it preloads the piston by the same amount.  There's a tip on the output plunger with a lock nut behind it.  Loosen the lock nut, turn the tip (it screws in and out) and then retighten the lock nut.

If the plunger is not touching the piston then a lot of peddle travel will be used in taking up the slack and the brakes may not engage, if the piston is adjusted out to far then the MC piston will always be engaged and will keep you brakes on all the time.

If I got anything wrong here please chime in cause this is all new to me and just relaying what I heard.

Thank Photobucket for the pics.  I removed the boot, and installed a retaining tab off another old master I had.  I adjusted the rod .910"-.920" long from tip to mating surface on booster per the FSM.