throttle valve adjustment

[Canadian1968]

In my quest to try and get my tranny to shift properly . I dropped the tranny pan to check all adjustments again. My question  is the throttle valve adjustment. In thr manual it says to depress valve al the way in to valive body and then adjust lever stop. I don't understand why the valve needs to be depressed , my valve doesn't have any outward pressure on it at all. I can adjust the lever stop with out the valve itself interfering . And depressing the valve alone with a tool does not move the throttle lever /  cam at all? so why does it need to be depressed

my second question is.  I have lengthened the carb linkage to try and get the full travel I have been told I need.  I have the slotted linkage at thr carb lengthened enough that it is starting to add travel at idle ( or resting position)  what I mean is when I pull the slotted linkage off the carb I lengthened it so when I put it back on I have to push the linkage back slightly to get it on the carb arm. This is basically doING the same thing as stop screw inside the pan. 

there is about 2/16" between stop and throttle  cam when I dropped the pan with linkage set like this. I need this length in order to get the close to full back position at wot for my kickdown .

Car is 440 with rpm manifold

[John_Kunkel]

Factory carb or aftermarket? If aftermarket, does it have the correct Mopar throttle lever extension? Without it you'll never get the linkage to work correctly.

The throttle valve adjustment uses a tool that is 5/8", this is sandwiched between the cam and the valve tip, then the valve is fully depressed and the adjustable out-stop tightened.

In reality, you can adjust it by providing a .200" air gap between the tip of the valve and the cam...use the adjustable out-stop so set the gap.

[Canadian1968]

ok Tha makes sense. it's hard to tell in the picture of the fsm what the tool look like. I shorten the gap that I had between to stop and cam. I also turned up the line pressure by 1 1/2 full turns . The car seems to run much better . I think i could probably get 1 more turn out of the carb linkage . This would put me at absolute full travel of the kick down linkage with  no slack at all when at wot .   I do have the correct throttle adapter for my holley . It was confirmed 8n another post I  had made with similar kick down questions !  I also double checked the low / reverse band adjusted to 2 out.  the fluid was dark and smelled burnt so I know it wasn't working right . Slipping I think ? But I feel like I am close now.

[Canadian1968]

what should a normal rpm drop be, between 2-3 shift ? at normal acceleration?  right now I am getting about 200 - 400 rpm

[Canadian1968]

Juse thought I would let everyone know I finally got the the tranny shift correctly.  Closed up my throttle valve stop a little and my line pressure. Adjusted linkage at carb to FULL back travel at WOT. And everything seems to be working great finally . The shifts have a bit of snap to them at lower rpm deffinaltly not what oem shift would be but I am happy with it!

End of the day..... factory linkage working with Edelbrock RPM manifold and holley carb !