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Help Sorting My 68

Started by Evoking, February 09, 2017, 09:11:46 PM

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Evoking

February 09, 2017, 09:11:46 PM
So now that travel has slowed down a bit I drove the Charger today.  I have some 15" Magnum 500's on order.  About to order some Wilwood brakes.  Then I'm considering a 408 crate stroker. 

Beyond the improvements there is some basic sorting I need to do and would love some input...

1) None of the dash lights work or internal signals work.  Yet non of the fuses "look" blown when I look under there.  What should I look at and in what order?

2) The radio does not come on.  Is it on the same circuit as the dash lights or likely broken?

3) The speedometer and fuel gauge don't work.  Although the fuel gauge does move slightly to the right when I start it. 

4) The car is quite tight.  But I do hear what sounds like slight trunk movement as it rubs and squeaks.  I think this is it cause I can replicate by pushing on the trunk.  Can I lower the striker to make a tighter fit (though it looks like it may be all the way down).  Has anyone added a second rubber seal around the trunk to create more tension?

5) My steering wheel is misaligned.  Yet the car tracks straight.  I am hoping this can be corrected when the new steering wheel is installed.

What say ye veterans on some of these?

Kern Dog

#1
February 09, 2017, 09:25:26 PM
Quote from: Evoking on February 09, 2017, 09:11:46 PM


1) None of the dash lights work or internal signals work.  Yet non of the fuses "look" blown when I look under there.  What should I look at and in what order?
Dash lights are fused at the box. It is possible that the main harness plug at the back is damaged or missing.
2) The radio does not come on.  Is it on the same circuit as the dash lights or likely broken?
Radio is also fused.
3) The speedometer and fuel gauge don't work.  Although the fuel gauge does move slightly to the right when I start it. 
Speedometer is cable driven. Maybe nothing is connected at the back of the guage panel???
4) The car is quite tight.  But I do hear what sounds like slight trunk movement as it rubs and squeaks.  I think this is it cause I can replicate by pushing on the trunk.  Can I lower the striker to make a tighter fit (though it looks like it may be all the way down).  Has anyone added a second rubber seal around the trunk to create more tension?
The trunk hinges ride on plastic square blocks. They DO wear out. Maybe yours have some slop?
5) My steering wheel is misaligned.  Yet the car tracks straight.  I am hoping this can be corrected when the new steering wheel is installed.
The steering wheel can be pulled, spun to sit squarely then bolted back on. Another idea: Clock the tie rods an equal amount on each side.

What say ye veterans on some of these?

Anything else? Those were easy!

Charger-Bodie

#2
February 09, 2017, 09:25:52 PM
Dash lights are commonly inop due to the dial dimmer next to the headlight switch.

Gas gauge ,try grounding wire at the tank . If it sweeps full it's bad grounded tank or faulty sender.

Indicators could be bulbs? Sometimes it really is simple.

Radio has a fuse marked radio. Is antenna hooked up? Some won't make sound without it.

Speedo. Check to make sure the cable is inserted properly on each end. If so see if odo works or if nothing on the head works.


Lube hinge points and latch on deck lid and snug latch if needed.

How far off is the wheel? If upside down it could be that the coupler was assembled 180 out.
68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............

Kern Dog

#3
February 09, 2017, 09:33:56 PM
The gas guage can also stay on E if the float on the sending unit has holes in it.
When I first removed my guage panel, I was surprised at how many things had to come off or loosen to get it out.  Almost all of the dash bulbs were burned out. The wiring plug and harness to the cluster isn't very long either, they don't give you much to work with. The space under the dash of these cars is very cramped. I feel for the guys with bad backs or big bellys!

A couple of years back I had the dash apart. I was just getting to the point of needing reading glasses too. trying to see stuff up close, on my back with glasses was a real pisser.

Come on back with more questions. I  dig this stuff.     :2thumbs:

Evoking

#4
February 09, 2017, 09:34:50 PM
I looked at the fuses.  None look blown.  Are you saying I can feel the back of the box to make sure a plug is plugged in?

Indicator lights don't come only inside the car.  The exterior is fine. Perhaps the indicators are part of the dash lights problem?

I forgot to mention the reverse lights.  They do not come on.  Don't think they are fused.

Regarding the trunk I lubed the actual hinges.  They are tight and make no noise.  But when the trunk is closed I can move ever so slightly move the trunk which makes noise.  Wondering how to tighten that.  Loosen the striker and try to pull it down more so the trunk closes tighter.

The dome light has no bulb or cover.  I am headed to Autozone for a bulb now.  Wonder if they took it out cause it doesn't work or stays on?  Not sure why one would leave the bulb out...  Oh and regarding the cover will I need the whole dome or do they just sell covers?

Kern Dog

#5
February 09, 2017, 09:51:00 PM
The headlight switch itself is not protected by a glass fuse. It is powered directly through a 12 guage wire that enters through the bulkhead at the firewall.
Simply put, the headlights are powered not through the fuse panel but from the starter relay connection. It is protected by a "fusible link", essentially a smaller guage wire designed to burn out and break the flow of current. The headlight switch has several wires in the plug terminal though. I think i is an orange wire that feeds the guage panel lights. On my 70, the orange wires also run to the ash tray and the glove box lights.
In 2001 I had a headlight door motor crap out, causing heat in the wiring to the headlight witch. The switch heated and burned the wiring, melting the fusible link. I had to learn quick then about this car because it was different than the many A body cars I had.
Your headlight doors are vacuum operated so the switch is different from 68'69 and 70.
Do the outside turn signals and brake lights work?
backup lights are controlled by a small 3 wire harness from the left side of the transmission to the engine bay harness. The sending units in the transmission do fail, not sure how often.

With the trunk, it could be that the weatherstrip is too thin or installed in the wrong spot. If the panel fits the hole and looks right, I'd blame the trunk seal itself.
I think the dome lamp cover isn't going to be found at any local parts house. Reproductions are available from many places or a member can help you with a decent usedone. I think they use one that fits a bunch of other cars.

Kern Dog

#6
February 09, 2017, 09:53:25 PM
Testing pictures:

Kern Dog

#7
February 09, 2017, 09:57:17 PM
See the black plastic plug above my left shoe? There is a 10 guage wire feeding it. I Upsized from the stock 12 guage and replaced that plug with a good used one.

Evoking

#8
February 09, 2017, 10:26:11 PM
Got the dome light working.  Now just need a cover.  

Wonder why one is $12 and one is $22. Yet I don't see the difference...  The cheap one says reproduction.  The other just says Chrysler dome light.  Any idea if one is better quality or lighting tone?

https://www.yearone.com/Product/chrysler-b-body/r364


https://www.yearone.com/Product/chrysler-b-body/fd757

Kern Dog

#9
February 09, 2017, 10:50:12 PM
Some parts are reproduced with the blessing of Chrysler based on their assumed quality assurance. They are also granted the permission to use the Pentastar on the product.
PFfffffttt!
I say if it fits and looks nice, have at it.! :2thumbs:

Evoking

#10
February 09, 2017, 11:01:38 PM
My gut tells me with a $10 difference just by the more expensive one.  But more expensive isn't always better.  That said if the cheap one is a reproduction vs a new light I assume the new light is better look or quality in keeping with improvements.

I decided to be a big spender and went with the expensive $22 one!

Kern Dog

#11
February 09, 2017, 11:06:41 PM
You are on your way to accepting the high cost of a Mopar restoration! 

VegasCharger

#12
February 09, 2017, 11:57:39 PM
And Year One sucks on top of that. What did they charge you for shipping a 1 oz. lens? $15.00?

Kern Dog

#13
February 09, 2017, 11:58:49 PM
Yeah... for the next town over!

Evoking

#14
February 10, 2017, 11:59:37 AM
Quote from: VegasCharger on February 09, 2017, 11:57:39 PM
And Year One sucks on top of that. What did they charge you for shipping a 1 oz. lens? $15.00?

LOL, have not ordered yet.  Its in the shopping cart.  You recommend a better source?

Lennard

#15
February 10, 2017, 12:07:25 PM
Quote from: Evoking on February 10, 2017, 11:59:37 AM
Quote from: VegasCharger on February 09, 2017, 11:57:39 PM
And Year One sucks on top of that. What did they charge you for shipping a 1 oz. lens? $15.00?

LOL, have not ordered yet.  Its in the shopping cart.  You recommend a better source?
Ebay.  The lenses are all the same... cheap or expensive. I have the cheap one and it's exactly the same as my original one.  Just not yellow from age.

Charger-Bodie

#16
February 10, 2017, 12:12:00 PM
www.megapartsusa.com is my main source.
68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............

alfaitalia

#17
February 10, 2017, 12:36:24 PM
...yet about three times that in that UK....lucky me!
If at first you don't succeed, skydiving is not for you !!

Evoking

#19
February 11, 2017, 12:51:37 PM
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