Hp manifold heat riser

[cavemanno1]

My engine for my '68 R/T got rebuilt and about to get my HP manifolds sandblasted and painted.The heat riser is just flopping around and like most cases it does't work.
I know it was designed to be closed when the engine is cold to heat it up quickly so people can drive away quickly and open up ones the engine is warm.
These days people don't drive them daily and have time to warm them up but what if i can't have it running for 10 minutes?
I can't have it removed and just wait to the engine get warmed up because my garage is under a block of apartments where i live.Imagine a 440 with 3" TTI x pipes iddling fast under your window?People will kill me if i do it.
I have to point out that i live in Hungary and have no options to choose another garage because of the size issues,plus this garage in opposite from my place and i can see it all the time.So changing a garage isn't an option.
I have seen rebiuld kits but also read that they don't work well.What can i do then?I can't have it closed because then it will warp my carb and will have backpresure problems as well.I have a brand new edelbrock carb with manual choke by the way.

I need a working heat riser to get away from the houses quick so i can't remove it and wait for the engine to warm up.
How does the heat riser actually close or open itself,maybe someone knows a good trick to get around this problem.In Hungary we get 4 seasons so the winter is very cold,therefore i need the heat riser to function properly.
Also should ad that my garage doesn't get very cold even in the harshest winter because of the apartaments above it and garages next to it.
I have a Ducati motorbike which is a v2 and my neigbours said the windows shake and rattle when i start her up.Usually i let her warm up for 5 minutes but now imagine what the big block with 3" exhaust will do.I do not wanna cause problems for people as i have a small child as well and i would hate if someone would be revving their cars under my windows.

Can't it be operated like electric exhaust cut outs?I could open it up manually with a long screw driver but it means i would have to do it every time i go for a drive and that is just inconvenient.Or just get it closed in the winter and leave it open otherwise?
Any tips,help would be appreciated.

Thank you,

Peter

[70 sublime]

Could you get another manual choke cable and hook it up that way so you can open and close it from inside the car ?

[Brass]

Its okay to drive cold if you go easy on it and it gets a chance to come up to full operating temperature between points A and B.  I would delete the heat riser and ideally, get an electric choke.    

[ws23rt]

I agree with Brass.

I drove my 68 hemi rr and my 70 charger rt both as daily drivers in the 70's.  I drove year around which includes very cold winters.

If one thinks about it--when the oil pressure comes up the car/engine is ready to roll.---

Actually the engine will warm up a bit faster if it is doing some work.

BTW for my hemi RR I used a manual choke and did not use the intake manifold heat tubes and heat riser propped open.  The engine started and ran great for 70K miles while I had it in temps down to -5F.
The 70 440 charger rt also had the heat riser held open and was trouble free in cold starting in the same conditions as my RR.

[RECHRGD]

I agree on a manual or electric choke and get rid of the heat riser.  I don't even run a choke, but I don't do winter driving....