1968 Power Window Questions

[TPR]

I'm finally getting around to fixing the dodgy power window setup in my '68 but I have a few questions.
My power windows were not an original option and have been added during its resto before my ownership.
The switches:
They look like this:



Should they look like this?



If I have the '69 style switches, I can live with that, it doesn't bother me, just interested to know.

The motors:
Is there a difference between motors used in 68 compared to 69?
I ask because I have seen newer motors for sale from various online retailers (Electric Life and Dorman) but the specs always say for '69 onwards. Why would this be?
Example:
http://www.pentastarparts.com.au/store/index.php?l=product_detail&p=4146

My other issue is that retailers sell the front L & R motors only, not the rear L & R.
Another issue is that I don't need them in a kit with window arms as I'm not doing an upgrade from crank to power.
Example:
http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/eli-cr45-6670-k/overview/year/1968/make/dodge/model/charger

So, I am looking for '68 compatible motors and wiring for all four windows.
Perhaps I'm just not using the websites search functions properly, but they sometimes do my head in.
Can someone point me in a direction?

Last question, can the original motors be rebuilt with new internal parts? Too much money? Waste of time?
Thanks in advance.
TPR

[DC_1]

The second pic is of the correct switches (flat blade style) for 68. The first pic (rocker style) is 69/70.

68 -70 use the same motors.

The motors can be rebuilt. I've done mine. Took them apart, cleaned them and put new brushes in the motor

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,91429.0.html

[Dino]

I've rebuilt my own motors as well.  Not hard to do, they're zipping like new now!

68 switches pop up on ebay from time to time but they are expensive.  The second pic switches would be my choice.   

I've seen wiring looms for sale but they are ridiculously expensive as in a grand or so.  With the wiring diagram in hand you can make your own for a fraction of that. 

[TPR]

Thanks for all the information guys, it's good to make an informed decision before tearing into this.
I am now leaning towards changing the switches to the '68 style and you have inspired me to attempt rebuilding the motors myself.

One thing I'll need to consider; are the '69 style switches bigger than the '68 style and therefore will it leave too big a gap in the door cards when swapped?
I would like to avoid having to buy replacement door cards.
Could someone please give me some quick widths and heights of the four button and single button configurations in the '68 style?

I am thinking of getting my switches from Summit and I'm concerned that they say 'GM Style?' These look pretty close to the original Chrysler style don't they?

http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/eli-4990-50-356/applications

If I cannot get the old motors working smoothly and consistently and I do go ahead and purchase new motors, will these do the job?
I am still puzzled as to why they advertise these motors being suitable from '69 onward. Should I be concerned?

http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/rnb-742-301/applications

As I have not yet removed my rear door cards to get to the motors, I am guessing that the rear motors are no different to the front ones, it's just that the left and right sides differ. Correct?

Sorry for all the questions guys, but it's tricky to buy stuff from the other side of the world sight unseen, when relying on sketchy retailer information.
Too much $$$ to be lost due to bad decision making.
Thanks again,
TPR

[GOTWING]

that second picture is GM switches, look in any mid 80's G body Regal , Cutlass, grand prix, Monte carlo etc

[Dino]

The holes for the single switches are roughly 1 7/8" by 1 1/2".  The 4 gang switch is 4 1/2" by 1 1/2".

The measurements for the actual switches I took from edge to edge so if the hole in the panels are bigger, you have a problem.   

Single switch: 2 1/2" square, 4 gang: 2 1/" by 5 5/16"

There should be some pictures of 68 switches on this site so do a search for those.  They are the same as earlier switches but I don't know which models used them.  Maybe you can find some in Google images.

The motors are the same front to back, only the sides are different and the brackets that hold them to the frame.  You can't really install them wrong, it just wouldn't fit.

Any of those new motors will physically fit the regulator and operate the windows, but there's no provision for the brackets on the bottoms of the motors so you can't secure them anywhere else unless you fabricate something so keep that in mind.  I have bought those same motors and then decided to try and make mine work again.  They now work just as well as the new motors.  Thanks to DC_1 for his help!   

There are different types of gears for these old motors but even if the plastic gears are busted you can get new ones.  Besides those it's just a matter of cleaning out the old grease, cleaning up the electrical and reassembling with new grease.  There's very little to it.  Once the old grease is out they'll proably work again.  The grease in mine turned into a rock.

Just take one motor apart, clean it all up and put it back together.  Post pics if you need help.

[DC_1]

...

[Dino]

Nice!

Those are quite a bit smaller than 69 switches!  I forgot to mention that my measurements were taken from 69 switches...my bad.

[TPR]

Wow, thanks for all your photos, measurements and suggestions guys.
Now that I know those Summit switches are the wrong type I think I'll stick with my '69 versions.
A quick eBay search brought up the 4 gang only, but for $125, in worse condition than the ones you pictured DC_1.

I'll focus on rebuilding the motors starting with the driver door and redo the plugs and wiring.
Hopefully I'll get a chance to start this weekend.
Cheers guys. 
TPR

[VegasCharger]

Wow, thanks for all your photos, measurements and suggestions guys.
Now that I know those Summit switches are the wrong type I think I'll stick with my '69 versions.
A quick eBay search brought up the 4 gang only, but for $125, in worse condition than the ones you pictured DC_1.

I'll focus on rebuilding the motors starting with the driver door and redo the plugs and wiring.
Hopefully I'll get a chance to start this weekend.
Cheers guys.  
TPR

Yes the 68 switches are smaller than 69 thru 74 switches. At the swap meets I'll ask the guys what's the difference between a 68 Charger door panel vs a 69 Charger door panel. Answer the 68 door panel has smaller cut-outs for power window switches.

It appears that you're going with the 69 switch for your 68 Charger. If you need the exact measurements for the cut-out area for the 68 version, I have them.

I know this because my 68 Charger came with pw but I needed new panels as mine were trashed. I found a set of rear door panels at a swap meet removed from a 69 Charger. Got em at a descent price even though they were green and I needed black. This is when I found out that the switches were a different size. I knew that the switches were a different style between the two but didn't realize that were different sizes. So I took my original door panels and used them as templates to transfer the pw switch hole cut-outs onto the 69 door panels.

Good luck with your pw set-up.

[TPR]

Right, here's a brief update:
I pulled the front driver motor out cleaned it up enough to get it to work again, but this was only temporary. I think the issue was in the armature part of the motor.
I decided to trash them and go all out with new ones and keep the '69 style switches.

Based on your info Dino, I decided to buy a new set of four Dorman motors even though they are advertised to be compatible with '69 and up only. You were right, they fit fine. No mods necessary.
I bought them from Rock Auto for $33US ea instead of $140AU ea here. They showed up in just four days.
It was an easy swap after fitting new plugs on both ends.

I pulled the passenger front and did that as well.
At a later date I will do the two rears, when I have time to pull out the seats etc.
Thanks for all your help Gents, if I'd known it was going to be this easy I would have done it a while back.
TPR