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New Sidewinder aluminum heads installation

Started by Calif240, June 04, 2015, 12:01:57 PM

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Calif240

Hey guys... I got my new Cylinder Heads from Marsh Performance. I'm going to start a second string just on how those heads look when I get some pictures and show a few details. In the meantime, this is my first cylinder-head swap and I want to be sure with these being new that I do it correctly. I'm looking for some general pointers on things to watch for or ensure I do... (the rest of the engine is fully broken in, other than two push-rods).
1) Do I need any assembly lube on the tops of the new valves?
2) Do I need to "prime" the coolant system to eliminate air?
3) Do I need to adjust timing immediately following new heads, or should it be fairly close to focus on other things (air/fuel, etc)

Can you tell me anything else such as "make sure to do this" or "DONT DO THIS!"?

Any advice is appreciated...

I will get you guys some shots of the new heads and a full review with dyno numbers ASAP. The heads look nice.

Thanks,
Terry
Indianapolis '69 Charger. RestoMod.

BLK 68 R/T

Quote from: Calif240 on June 04, 2015, 12:01:57 PM
Hey guys... I got my new Cylinder Heads from Marsh Performance. I'm going to start a second string just on how those heads look when I get some pictures and show a few details. In the meantime, this is my first cylinder-head swap and I want to be sure with these being new that I do it correctly. I'm looking for some general pointers on things to watch for or ensure I do... (the rest of the engine is fully broken in, other than two push-rods).
1) Do I need any assembly lube on the tops of the new valves?
2) Do I need to "prime" the coolant system to eliminate air?
3) Do I need to adjust timing immediately following new heads, or should it be fairly close to focus on other things (air/fuel, etc)

Can you tell me anything else such as "make sure to do this" or "DONT DO THIS!"?

Any advice is appreciated...

I will get you guys some shots of the new heads and a full review with dyno numbers ASAP. The heads look nice.

Thanks,
Terry

1) Do I need any assembly lube on the tops of the new valves?Yes, I would put some on all of the rocker arms where they make contact.
2) Do I need to "prime" the coolant system to eliminate air? No, just refill the rad and leave the cap off and keep filling it until after the coolant starts to circulate and stays full.
3) Do I need to adjust timing immediately following new heads, or should it be fairly close to focus on other things (air/fuel, etc) As long as the distributor goes into the exact same spot you will be fine and can adjust as necessary later.
Did you purchase new head bolts or did they come with the heads? I know aluminum heads require new bolts with the hardened washers. They usually require longer reach spark plugs as well.

Also, the torque values are usually different with aluminum heads than what the FSM states. But the heads should come with some sort of specs to torque them to.

Are you running stock rocker gear? If not, depending on what rocker arm setup you are running, you may have to re-shim everything for your clearances. You will also want to check your valve spring to rocker arm clearance as well as your push rod length if you are running adjustable rocker arms. This is due to the fact that the rocker arm shaft mounts may be in a slightly different location and/or a different height than stock heads.

That's all I can think of for now.

b5blue

I wanted to buy a set early this year but other things got in the way. Lots of pics please, I'm glad you started this topic!  :2thumbs: Todd is super to deal with, great guy!

Calif240

Yep... working on the pics and will start a new thread with all head information and performance data that I can. Let me know if you want something specific or specific picture before they get bolted up.

As far as the heads... Todd says they are stock spec torques, predicated on the bolt size. I have the ARP high dollar kit that I think you can re-use many times. I think they are using Moly-Lube at the speed shop to set the bolts. If these are not re-usable, please let me know, but they have the hardened washers and everything.

The rocker gear is a shaft-mount comp roller rocker with hydraulic lifters and roller cam. I'm planning to measure the geometry to ensure that the 8.350 push rods are still good. Everything with springs and all was checked out by Todd.

Todd was good to deal with and thus far it's been good. Took about 3 weeks from order placement to getting the heads.
Indianapolis '69 Charger. RestoMod.