Alignment settings

[b5blue]

   Alignment, I did a search. Page after page of info that varies. (Wish we had a sticky on settings.) Castor seems a "Max positive" setting, camber I'm finding all kinds of numbers depending on power or manual and toe in steady at 1/16th to 1/8th.
 With my DYI tool due here soon I'm looking to actually play with some of these values. I've a 70 Charger and have installed adjustable struts, offset Moog UCA bushings that are stagger placement. Everything is in A-1 condition and working fine. I've power steering and radial tires.
 I'm looking for good starting numbers for generally a daily driver situation with a stock setup. Last alignment the car was close to factory spec and ran/handled pretty good. I switched to 11 3/4 disk, staggered UCA offset bushings and changed to the adjustable strut rods all at the same time.
 The FSM has setting ride height by measuring bottom ball joint to the ground and adding 1 7/8th" for a measurement to the inside of LCA's adjuster pivot and I've done that by cutting a wire coat hanger to make a gauge. (No rake, I'm not dropping the front end.) I installed rear "front spring brackets" that have two mount holes and used the higher hole on the passengers side to help correct for the extra leafs on that set of rear springs. (It sill sits a bit higher but is much closer.)
 I plan on using bags of concrete mix to load the chassis for the drivers weight (Don't ask!   ) and about 1/2 to 3/4 tank of fuel as I rarely fill it all the way up. Any Ideas or input, settings you used and liked?
Thanks! b5blue  

[myk]

I'm sure you read through my misadventures in alignment just a few threads down from this one.

In any case, here are the handling-oriented settings I'm at now:

6* of positive caster

-1 negative camber

1/8 inch of toe in

Personally, I'd recommend as much positive caster as possible, 1/16th" of toe in, although I think this is a trial and error spec, and finally -.5 negative camber.  I think -1 on the camber is a bit much for a street car, the other settings aren't really debatable as they are user defined...

[HPP]

With offset bushings, yes, you want to try for max caster. If you had tubular arms that are designed with a large range of caster, you want to shoot for 6-7*.  This is because you want caster to be equal to spindle axis inclination that is built into the spindle. This equality builds in additional dynamic camber changes as the suspension moves through its motions in addition to providing increased resistance or road feel, a faster return to center, and increases high speed stability.

The more caster you can get, the less static camber you need. But, even with that, camber does not wear tires as rapidly as bad toe will wear on them. -.5* is definitely a good starting point for a street car, but the more aggressive you drive and the softer your suspension, the more negative camber you would want to add.

I personally don't use the FSM for ride height. I set it where I like it then build everything around that. The DC/MP Chassis Performance Manual does suggest a 2-3* nose down rake for additional high speed stability and reduced lift. I usually try to get my lower control arm pivot points to run parallel to the ground contingent upon the tire/wheel combo I have. This is for geometric reasons, but is my personal preference and isn't for everyone as it produces a very low ride height.

I think you've got good baseline numbers to start with.

[b5blue]

  I just ordered 115.00 tire turn tables and checked caster last night. As the offset bushings are staggered I'll be lucky to get anymore than 1* to .5* caster maxed out. The adjustable strut rods were added to compensate just a small amount from the previous alignment readings printout. (Between the staggered bushings and struts I should fall into good numbers without stressing anything to get there.)
 I'm keeping factory ride height as it's being set up for daily use/cruising and want the clearance. We get brutal rain storms and streets flood for a while, every inch counts then. I've had the car up to about 120mph set at factory and it rode/handled pretty good for an old B Body.
 The whole point of going DIY is to be able to try out adjustments without going back to a shop so thanks for any info/input.    

[chargerbr549]

My alignment on my 69 Charger ended up being -3/8 Camber and +3 1/4 Caster and 1/16 toe in, I don't remember when I rebuilt the suspension years ago if I used the offset bushings or not to get more caster. Just a side note I also dropped the front and rear suspension an inch lower than stock, I recorded how much the Caster and Caster angles changed when I lowered it, the Camber moved around 1/2 degree negative and Caster moved 5/8 to 3/4 positive without adjusting anything else.

Kevin

[b5blue]

Thanks.

[b5blue]

Going through my paperwork for the Charger I found Rick E. included with my off set bushings alignment recommendations for factory type setup in top condition:
USE         CAMBER          CASTER        TOE IN
Street         -1/2*             +2*               1/8"
Hi-Po         -1 1/2*         +2 1/2             1/8"
X/Track      -2 1/2*            +3            Near Zero
Sounds like doable numbers for me with adjustable strut rods.

[HPP]

You should be able to hit any those numbers without offset bushings or adjustable struts.

Worth noting is that for the extra caster you put in, the less camber you will need.

[Kern Dog]

Those camber numbers are crazy!

I run 1/2 degree of NEG camber, 5 degrees of POS caster and 1/8" toe in. The Charger tracks nicely and corners quite well. ZERO irregular tire wear, at least up front...