Rear suspension hop

[G Force]

Ok I found the Problem  It turns out to be that the Pinion snubber is setting too close to the body ( approx. 1/2") not giving enough suspension travel. I have it adjusted all the way down. I am now thinking I may have to Modify the bracket somehow to get it lower. 

[74Charger]

How far should the pinion snubber be to the body?  Is it different for street use verses track use?

[Chryco Psycho]

I like it touching at the track , you probably need a couple of inches even if the roads are decnt where you are

[Ghoste]

Yep, even with new springs and a couple of inches, mine bangs on rougher dips in the road.  I'm not talking about potholes either, just the average dips that you wouldn't ordinarily notice.  Your suspension travels a lot further and a lot more often under normal use than you would ever think (which is good, that means it's doing it's job).

[RD]

it will change the angle slightly , it depends how high the rear of the car sits & how much angle the shaft is actually at

New springs from Mopar performance Drivers side has extra leaf (stock)

glad you found out what it was, but if I am not mistaken, the passenger side is the side to receive the leaf springs with the extra leaf.

[Ghoste]

Correct.  Nor should they significantly alter the ride height unless the old ones were really worn.  Even at that, you'd have to set the car up to the worn springs for it to cause a problem by switching to new ones.

[G Force]

Turns out to be the mechanic had the pinion snubber adjusted to close to the body and didnt allow the suspension to travel.

[Mike DC]

The GV unit would definitely shorten the shaft, but I'm not sure if that's really supposed to affect pinion angle or not. 

Ideally the angle of the tranny and the rearend aren't supposed to be too far apart.  So pushing the tranny & diff closer together (GV unit) would definitely increase some angles, but I would expect it to just increase them both equally and net you zero changes in the ultimate situation.  The only difference would be that the standard recommended angles for a B-body setup would no longer be relevant to your situation.

And then, what angles are we talking about?  Drag-race angles or regular street driving angles? 

There's one angle that's ideal for the car to cruise at.  For a street car, you just set it there and you're done.
But for a drag car, you're supposed to set the pinion a few degrees too far down.  So when the drivetrain is under load, the engine torque will be forcing the pinion angle a few degrees unnaturally UPWARD . . . which will put the pinion angle where it should have been in the first place.  So the pinion angle is correct when the car's under full-blast power and it's wrong the rest of the time.

 

[G Force]

Hi Mike ,  I called Gear Vendors and they said it would change the angles. But as you mentioned it may not be enough to create a vibration.  The Gear vendor Rep said the angle should be approx. 1/2 degree from each other. and not totally zeroed out.
I measured my angles and the happen to be off by approx. 1/2 degree ( according to my measurments    )
I am just trying to get it to the point that I don't get vibration on the freeway. Not interested in the drag strip performance.
The standard 5-7 degree does not apply to my car any longer tdue to the  Gear vendor unit. The mechanic I brought it to put in 4 degree shims and said that its the best it can be ( but I still feel the vibration).

Thanks for your reply!