Should I invest in a "Motive Power Bleeder"?

[b5blue]

   I need reviews to decide if it's worth investing 73.00 for this thing? Should I just get my old stuff out and do it the way I have or go full tilt and get the big set that includes all the adapters because it so frigging great I'll make a killing doing everyone's cars?
   Looks decent for a one man operation but in the end, when done....won't brake fluid slop all over the place when I remove the top plate? Is the funky J strap/chain worth a dam or just get a big C clamp to use?
  Thanks for any input, I'm doing a major overhaul/disk swap on the 70 Charger and will be flushing my Jeep's brakes system soon also. (Anyone know what cap fits an 89 XJ Cherokee clutch master cylinder?)

http://www.jegs.com/i/Motive+Products/715/0105/10002/-1?CAWELAID=1710643279&CAGPSPN=pla&catargetid=230006180000848287&cadevice=c&gclid=CMiPn7PM9cMCFVAvgQod8IYAxw

[bill440rt]

Great timing, Neal. 
I was going to start a thread today too asking about one-man pressure bleeders. I'm in the market for one also, just trying to find one that really works well. I don't mind paying (within reason) for a good one as long as it works well.

I saw an old thread where you had an air powered one from Harbor Freight? I saw mixed reviews on it, how did it work and are you still using it?? 

[Charger-Bodie]

 I bought a Phoenix reverse bleeder . It's mor money ,but does work nice. Have to take it nice and slow though because the lid needs to be off of the master.

[b5blue]

Great timing, Neal. 
I was going to start a thread today too asking about one-man pressure bleeders. I'm in the market for one also, just trying to find one that really works well. I don't mind paying (within reason) for a good one as long as it works well.

I saw an old thread where you had an air powered one from Harbor Freight? I saw mixed reviews on it, how did it work and are you still using it?? 

Hi Bill!  Good memory! HF works by running compressed air past a nozzle to create vacuum. I had to remove the safety tip and crank up the pressure and let it rip WFO quite a bit but it worked when my "Mighty Vac" hand pump did nothing. Installing all new stuff for the brake job means starting bone dry again so the plan just may be to use both! The HF bleeder will work as a large catch can at the very least this time. Committed to regular fluid changes annually starting with a fresh hydraulics system and normally having no help is why I'm chiming in.
  I'd vote the HF bleeder as worth what it costs in general utility for what's included, just get a 20% off coupon or catch a sale. (The trick when working solo is keeping the master full, it has a QT. bottle for round top masters that is useless for our masters. 

[1970Moparmann]

A friend has a Power Bleeder, and likes it a lot.

[b5blue]

  After seeing some positive remarks around here in other topics and thinking over my last post I ordered one from JEGs. If I don't like it they will refund me. I like not needing a helper or worrying if the master runs out. If it is or isn't good look here for an update!    

[bill440rt]

I'll be watching! 

[terrible one]

I have one and would say it is worth it, but for our older style m/c you need the adapter plate which is a little finicky. But maybe modern m/c's with twist on caps just have me spoiled. Oh and it is eerily similar to a pump up garden/ pesticide sprayer. I wonder if one of those could be adapted for half the price?

To avoid a mess, I've never actually filled the power bleeder with brake fluid. I top off the m/c and use the power bleeder to pressurize what's in there. I've done a few bleeds this way, including wheel cylinder swaps, brake valve rebuild/ swaps, etc. where a lot of air was in the system and haven't had to stop and add fluid to the m/c

[Mopar Nut]

I like my Motive Power Bleeder, but remember to use a "C" clamp, worked excellent. Too bad you are not closer, I would let you borrow it. This is good to have because the brakes should be bleed every two years.

[b5blue]

Thanks! Just a plain big C clamp, easy enough!   

[Just 6T9 CHGR]

I have one and would say it is worth it, but for our older style m/c you need the adapter plate which is a little finicky. But maybe modern m/c's with twist on caps just have me spoiled. Oh and it is eerily similar to a pump up garden/ pesticide sprayer. I wonder if one of those could be adapted for half the price?

To avoid a mess, I've never actually filled the power bleeder with brake fluid. I top off the m/c and use the power bleeder to pressurize what's in there. I've done a few bleeds this way, including wheel cylinder swaps, brake valve rebuild/ swaps, etc. where a lot of air was in the system and haven't had to stop and add fluid to the m/c

I have the Motive bleeder as well and I agree with the above statement that the adapter thing is a real PITA.  I used the chain setup along with a c-clamp & still managed to lose a quart of DOT 3 down my firewall

I have used it with better success on the modern screw on type masters though

[moparnation74]

I have one and would say it is worth it, but for our older style m/c you need the adapter plate which is a little finicky. But maybe modern m/c's with twist on caps just have me spoiled. Oh and it is eerily similar to a pump up garden/ pesticide sprayer. I wonder if one of those could be adapted for half the price?

To avoid a mess, I've never actually filled the power bleeder with brake fluid. I top off the m/c and use the power bleeder to pressurize what's in there. I've done a few bleeds this way, including wheel cylinder swaps, brake valve rebuild/ swaps, etc. where a lot of air was in the system and haven't had to stop and add fluid to the m/c

I have the Motive bleeder as well and I agree with the above statement that the adapter thing is a real PITA.  I used the chain setup along with a c-clamp & still managed to lose a quart of DOT 3 down my firewall

I have used it with better success on the modern screw on type masters though

We took a clamp and welded a piece of angle iron about 3" long on the clamp bottom as a V.  To accept the bottom of the master cylinder.  The top portion of the clamp welded a flat piece of 1/4" steel to cover the top.  Super tight, no leaks, no problems.  I would take a pic of it but my buddy borrowed it.

[b5blue]

I see the newest have an aluminum plate, is that what yours has? (The older ones were plastic.)

[bill440rt]

Getting the plate to seal correctly sounds like a lot of trial & error.

How do the pneumatic ones work in comparison? 

[Mopar Nut]

Mine is the aluminum plate that's heavy duty enough for a "C" clamp. I also used a piece of wood to protect the plate.

[terrible one]

I see the newest have an aluminum plate, is that what yours has? (The older ones were plastic.)

Yep, I too opted for the aluminum after hearing about the woes some were having with the plastic. The angle iron is a good idea!

[Just 6T9 CHGR]

I see the newest have an aluminum plate, is that what yours has? (The older ones were plastic.)

Mine is the red anodized aluminum one

[b5blue]

Thanks for the input! What is the "working pressure" used? (I see it has a gauge.)    Possibly a second softer silicone sheet gasket would help?